Spraying hyd. fluid

Evening all, haven't had a chance to open it up yet (2N) but was mowing today- went to raise the mower and high pressure fluid blew out the gasket between the top
cover where the lift cyl. is attached and the tractor; it sprays only under load. Will have to pull the top cover tomorrow but any ideas on what I'm in for?

Should also mention the leak was right by my right leg

(quoted from post at 20:48:17 04/28/18) Should also mention the leak was right by my right leg

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hat is where the tube comes up, sounds like you blew the gasket.

Top cover gasket may be blown, cover may have a crack, or anything else may be possible. BUT, before taking a wrench to anything, you'd better understand how to remove the 9N/2N top cover first. Get out your I&T F-04 Manual and read the chapter on the N Hydraulic Systems. The 9N/2N hydraulic systems are different than the 8N one. On the 9N/2N models, you must first release the lift control fork, often called the 'wishbone bracket linkage', by hand thru the inspection cover ports BEFORE pulling the top cover off the tractor. Failure to do so will result in broken parts and a bigger job than anticipated. It is also imperative that you know which bolts secure the hydraulic cylinder to the top cover and which bolts secure the top cover to the center housing. There will be four bolts almost directly under the seat that secure the cylinder to the top cover >>>> DO NOT REMOVE those until the cover is off and on the workbench. Since you are going to be pulling the cover off, I'd plan on cleaning and rebuilding the cylinder now while cover is off. Also, cleaning and checking the pump for cracks needs to be performed. You will flush the system of old oil as draining will remove most of it before you begin this project. If oil is a murky brown color now, that indicates it is contaminated with water. The worse case scenario is that water got into system, froze, and the system was forced into operation thus cracking the aluminum pump base. Best case it just got water in it and a good flushing and cleaning will resolve that problem. First, you can test the cylinder before draining oil and removing everything simply by attaching a load like a back blade, plow, or mower. Raise the implement up by the lift touch control handle and leave it UP and PTO engaged. Shut down tractor power. Does the implement drop slowly, say to the ground within minutes or a few hours? If so, your cylinder is bad and needs replacing. Repeat process again but now get on the ground and using a good flashlight and with the inspection covers removed, look way up to the bottom side of the top cover where the cylinder is. Once tractor power is off, DO NOT reach into the pump area with motor running and PTO engaged as the TO shaft is spinning. There you may see seepage of hydraulic oil bypassing the walls and the piston. If so, at this point, you have confirmed the cylinder is worn badly. The original 9N, 2N, and 8N pistons used three steel rings, like your engine pistons, that acted like wipers and seals. When the NAA (Jubilee) system was released, it now used a new piston with a round rubber O-Ring and a leather backup washer/wiper and proved to be a better design. This piston will work in the earlier N's as the cylinder is still the same. You will need to purchase a new kit consisting of all the gaskets. Some kits also contain a new cylinder, an NAA piston, O-Ring, and wiper. I highly recommend that you install a new cylinder too. Why? It took me only one time to try and get by using an old cylinder only to have to remove the top cover all over again and replace the cylinder as it was worn bad enough that oil still leaked. The old steel three-ring pistons were notorious for tearing up cylinder walls especially when oil was low and/or water contaminated. Some fellas have tried to hone out the cylinder bore, but once when grooves get worn in the walls, it is usually a futile attempt and leaking is still prevalent. Check the parts suppliers on this site or go to just 8n's . There are some videos made to help you thru the project too. Check this site for J&D Productions or click on the LINK below.

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
FORD FERGUSON HYDRAULIC REPAIR

Lower the lift before lifting the cover off.

Many thanks- looks like my next 2 Saturdays are pretty much spoken for...

(quoted from post at 06:29:44 04/29/18) Many thanks- looks like my next 2 Saturdays are pretty much spoken for...

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Get a helper, they're pretty heavy. When I did mine, I left the seat spring on it. If needed, you can clamp a two by four to it to use as a lifting handle. I took that picture before I removed the seat pan from the spring.

In the other pic you can see that the spring also comes in handy to clamp the whole thing to a table for easy working on. You may want to replace a worn cam pin while you have it out.

(quoted from post at 08:29:44 04/29/18) Many thanks- looks like my next 2 Saturdays are pretty much spoken for...

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It may take longer depending on what parts you need. Mine took three Saturdays due to waiting for one last part.

That said, it's not a difficult job. The hardest part on mine was getting it apart and cleaning off the old gasket material. As long as you're in there, clean out all the gunk.

If you've any questions, ask. There are plenty of people on this forum that will know the answers.