Gas runs out of carburetor (when the air breather tube is removed). It seems to flood easily ( I am not a mechanical genius) wondering if it is better to get old one repaired or buy new one. I'm pretty sure it is original..would like to find a good tractor mechanic in the lapeer area. (my last one died),
- Thread starter JB JIM
- Start date
They are updraft carbs, so yes, they do flood easily.
I'm in Ionia County Michigan and rebuild those carbs for LOTS of
people. They are shipped to me, rebuilt, tested and adjusted on
my tractors, then shipped back. It keeps the old machines running.
I will also help you rebuild your own via phone or email. Free.
Teach a man to fish, so to speak.
Tim is up in your neck of the woods too. He may be willing to help.
In any event, if it is original, better to rebuild than to replace.
I'm in Ionia County Michigan and rebuild those carbs for LOTS of
people. They are shipped to me, rebuilt, tested and adjusted on
my tractors, then shipped back. It keeps the old machines running.
I will also help you rebuild your own via phone or email. Free.
Teach a man to fish, so to speak.
Tim is up in your neck of the woods too. He may be willing to help.
In any event, if it is original, better to rebuild than to replace.
Tall T
Well-known Member
Unless you are over-choking it . . . sounds like the float might not be shutting off your needle valve like it should when the bowl is full.
The low priced YT kit worked well for me and my Marvel. You couldn't ask for a simpler carb to rebuild.
Stay with your original quality equipment whenever you can and whenever rebuild kits are available.
Bill Crowell
Member
Remember that if you are not getting spark, the unburned fuel being drawn into the intake tract will make it appear that the carburetor is flooding when it is not. Maybe check for spark first?
Tim PloughNman Daley RIP
Well-known Member
HiYa Jim-
I concur with the others here -try and avoid buying any parts sold today as 'new' for these old N's. These machines were designed to be worked on by the farmer, and oftentimes right in the field. All major components like carbs, starters, generators, water pumps, and distributors, to name a few should always be removed and rebuilt when required. Chances are your carb just needs a good cleaning and rebuild, but, we can go thru and check the other systems too. Are you choking it at startup excessively? I have a few M/S carbs already rebuilt on my shelf so I could bring one by and we can test it. I'm in Lapeer, MI too so may not be very far at all from you. Royse is in MI as well, rebuilds these old parts as well and does a great job, so you have a few options. My email is open...
Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
I concur with the others here -try and avoid buying any parts sold today as 'new' for these old N's. These machines were designed to be worked on by the farmer, and oftentimes right in the field. All major components like carbs, starters, generators, water pumps, and distributors, to name a few should always be removed and rebuilt when required. Chances are your carb just needs a good cleaning and rebuild, but, we can go thru and check the other systems too. Are you choking it at startup excessively? I have a few M/S carbs already rebuilt on my shelf so I could bring one by and we can test it. I'm in Lapeer, MI too so may not be very far at all from you. Royse is in MI as well, rebuilds these old parts as well and does a great job, so you have a few options. My email is open...
Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
No - just forget to turn it off will try that next...It's the only thing around here that needs for that to be done....
Main problem also is that darn noise while trying to start it.
Today I went thru every electrical connection and cleaned each one down to shiny metal...still "clacking" !!!! Main suspects are the solenoid and the starter-so far have not been able to isolate the source of the noise. Will try replacing the solenoid if that doesn't cure the problem will have to pull the starter and most likely take it to Bad Axe for the Starter Guru to see if he can determine the problem. He has forgotten more about starters than most of the people I know !!
Main problem also is that darn noise while trying to start it.
Today I went thru every electrical connection and cleaned each one down to shiny metal...still "clacking" !!!! Main suspects are the solenoid and the starter-so far have not been able to isolate the source of the noise. Will try replacing the solenoid if that doesn't cure the problem will have to pull the starter and most likely take it to Bad Axe for the Starter Guru to see if he can determine the problem. He has forgotten more about starters than most of the people I know !!
Thanks for the offer. -I'm on Lum Road - just West of Armstrong. The carb most likely needs rebuilding or replacement. The last person who worked on it is an ole friend of mine but unfortunately relies more on "By Gosh and By Golly" than specifications. I'd rather let him think he fixed it than tell him it isn't working well.
I'm retired and we are always around unless we are out eating or shopping. We are both moderately disabled so we never go far. LOL
If you have time - sometime, give me a call. Cell 810-417-5030 and if I miss the incoming call just leave me a message ..I'll CB
I have been able to start the tractor even with the clacking sound and as soon as it fires it runs and the clacking quits.
Jim
I'm retired and we are always around unless we are out eating or shopping. We are both moderately disabled so we never go far. LOL
If you have time - sometime, give me a call. Cell 810-417-5030 and if I miss the incoming call just leave me a message ..I'll CB
I have been able to start the tractor even with the clacking sound and as soon as it fires it runs and the clacking quits.
Jim
Evening Tim, If you would send me or call with your address I will disconnect the carb on my 2N and bring it to you. No sense in you taking time to drive to the big metropolis of Attica. We are in Lapeer almost every day anyway since we eat breakfast or lunch there 5-6 days a week and sometime 7!!! 'eating habits triangulate out of Attic to Almont--Imlay City---Lapeer and occasionally expands to a square including Davison. 'will wait to hear from you. JB
doublebass73
Member
I ran into an issue a few weeks ago where one of the throttle plate screws backed out on my M/S carb. I figured since I had to take the carb apart anyway I'd rebuild it. There was snow in the forecast so I couldn't wait to order parts online. I went to TSC and bought their complete rebuild kit and a new float. To my surprise all the parts were made in USA and it was an easy carb to rebuild. It now starts up very easily. I've found that it actually likes full choke now on a cold start whereas before I'd have to crank it a few times before I gave it any choke. You'll be much happier with a rebuilt carb.
Thanks for the info. I reached out to Tim who is in my area so if he responds I could pull the carb and deliver it to him since he is so close. It has been years since anyone with "N" knowledge looked at this machine - there may be other problems but dependable service (starting only ) is my goal.... I'm hoping to get it running again and dependably operational soon since I hope to get a flat bed of mulch delivered and the "N" with the platform lift is a necessary aid in moving large bags around the property. Will stay in touch JB
DMartin9N-2N
Member
Almost Off Topic; I had an uncle who put about 12 tractors in the Independence Day Parade in Hadley every year. He had family, friends, and others drive his tractors from his home into town (about 3 miles) to the parade. If you know the Lapeer area, I would think you know where Hadley is. My uncle passed away a few years ago, I don't know if his sons are still putting tractors in the parade.
D. Martin in W. Tenn.
D. Martin in W. Tenn.
(quoted from post at 17:40:26 03/23/18) They are updraft carbs, so yes, they do flood easily.
I'm in Ionia County Michigan and rebuild those carbs for LOTS of
people. They are shipped to me, rebuilt, tested and adjusted on
my tractors, then shipped back. It keeps the old machines running.
I will also help you rebuild your own via phone or email. Free.
Teach a man to fish, so to speak.
Tim is up in your neck of the woods too. He may be willing to help.
In any event, if it is original, better to rebuild than to replace.
Thanks for the reply and info. as it turns out Tim D. is only a few miles from me and has offered to stop by and see what the issues are; make suggestions based on his "N" knowledge and hopefully figure out what has me stumped. Good to know I have a couple of sources of great information. Will keep updating progress. JimB
Thanks for all the input from the board members--I went out to see if I could find out the root of all my tractor problems and in the process decided to try starting it-fired up for about 4 seconds so it was getting gas but apparently not enough even with new battery and cables. Then the starter cranked it one more time and then the buzzing sound like like a Bumbee really having a fit. The starter had disengaged and was free wheeling -not good. So being adventuresome by nature and deciding what the heck tore into the starter by myself and pulled it out pretty much in pieces. Starting gear was destroyed and the large spring had come off and was about to fall into the fly wheel pit. Starter is pretty much cooked and am taking it to a known starter Guru "Mike" to see if it is able to be resurrected or will require buying a replacement...I will continue blundering on into the dark mystery of 2N motors. More later jb
Thanks DB73-I'll likely get to the carb in a week or so Hopefully it goes as well as your experience. A couple of on liners here offered to have me mail it to them which may be another avenue if I can't figure it out on my own. Carbs (Mechanical and eating ) have always been a problem for me.LOL!!!
doublebass73
Member
Check out these videos, they were done by nnalert's. They go step by step on how to disassemble and rebuild an M/S TSX carb, it's an excellent reference:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ks4yWriSyc0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NAzgH_6JdjI
I have run across wear on the float tab the needle part of the needle and seat sits on causing trouble.
Over several years of the needle vibrating against the brass tab it wears a depression into it. The depression can cause the needle to hang-up. Trouble usually occurs after the gas has evaporated so the float is as low as it can go in the bowl. When the gas valve is opened the rising fuel lifts the float and as the needle and float tab scrub against each other, the needle finds an off center home in the depression causing the float to stick. Tapping the bowl can get things in order but it is better to "fix the dip". I have been able to take a small, round nose punch and on a flat surface, from under the dip, gentle bump the needle side back flat. A small, fine stone or diamond followed by finer still paper and you're good to go.
Two other causes of flooding are a leaky float and a swollen gasket pressing down on the float, not allowing it to rise high enough to shut off the fuel.
Over several years of the needle vibrating against the brass tab it wears a depression into it. The depression can cause the needle to hang-up. Trouble usually occurs after the gas has evaporated so the float is as low as it can go in the bowl. When the gas valve is opened the rising fuel lifts the float and as the needle and float tab scrub against each other, the needle finds an off center home in the depression causing the float to stick. Tapping the bowl can get things in order but it is better to "fix the dip". I have been able to take a small, round nose punch and on a flat surface, from under the dip, gentle bump the needle side back flat. A small, fine stone or diamond followed by finer still paper and you're good to go.
Two other causes of flooding are a leaky float and a swollen gasket pressing down on the float, not allowing it to rise high enough to shut off the fuel.
I'd like to thank all the fine people on the Y.T. Board and especially all those who responded with good information and offers. As it turned out I decided to plow into this one myself (armed with all the good advice) and surprisingly everything worked out well.The carburetor rebuild and adjustment were on the verge of getting the best of me and I seriously considered mailing it off when an old (90 years) gentleman who is converting my gasoline powered log splitter showed up and said he had the kits and would clean and rebuild it that afternoon. It took him 2 hours and runs great. So after replacing filters and gas lines, starter, solenoid, oils etc it runs great Thanks again.JB/
We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.
Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.
All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.
Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy