- Thread starter Tall T
- Start date
Agri Supply has a decent set close to that price range, but any of these, if you catch a tine into something, you will bend or break something. I built a heavy set from a Woods DuAl universal forks just by adding a removable top link mast and pins for the lift arms. These are heavy duty tines, the weak spot is the 1 3/8" diameter rod that pins them to the frame and guard. Catch a tine or fool with it doing things you should not, that rod will bend. None of these are made for ground engaging type work. You will need to build something more substantial to deal with boulders if you plan to try and load them directly onto the forks and have to use same to pry out of the ground. Once out, for moving, just have to use care.
Incidentally, few weeks back, found a ford 110 plow, NOS, sellers dad passed, he had it all these years, after he discovered they have little topsoil cover and shale below that. Bolts still have their marks on them and even the coulter and gauge wheel still have the original black paint. Was outside, but was a nice find, now have 2 NOS ford implements, the other is a subsoiler later model in ford blue.
Incidentally, few weeks back, found a ford 110 plow, NOS, sellers dad passed, he had it all these years, after he discovered they have little topsoil cover and shale below that. Bolts still have their marks on them and even the coulter and gauge wheel still have the original black paint. Was outside, but was a nice find, now have 2 NOS ford implements, the other is a subsoiler later model in ford blue.
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Tall T
Well-known Member
The mysterious Grey Rider returns!
A pallet . . . good plan.
First I was thinking of using my carryall, which would be the equivalent of a pallet, but then I thought I needed a lower deck to facilitate sliding under the boulders, so they wouldn't have to be pry-barred up onto the carryall deck. . . or pallet.
So then I thought I could maybe power under these boulders with forks or bucket as they are sitting loose on fresh fill.
Thanks,
Terry
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Tall T
Well-known Member
Hey Billy!
You wrote:
[color=darkblue:ea399eeabc]Agri Supply has a decent set close to that price range, but any of these, if you catch a tine into something, you will bend or break something.
[/color:ea399eeabc]
Do you mean bend or break something on the tractor or the forks?
[color=darkblue:ea399eeabc] I built a heavy set from a Woods DuAl universal forks just by adding a removable top link mast and pins for the lift arms. These are heavy duty tines, the weak spot is the 1 3/8" diameter rod that pins them to the frame and guard. Catch a tine or fool with it doing things you should not, that rod will bend. None of these are made for ground engaging type work. You will need to build something more substantial to deal with boulders if you plan to try and load them directly onto the forks and have to use same to pry out of the ground. Once out, for moving, just have to use care.[/color:ea399eeabc]
I haven't seen these local forks so I just have the guy's word that they are heavy duty and sideways adjustable.
[color=darkblue:ea399eeabc]Incidentally, few weeks back, found a ford 110 plow, NOS, sellers dad passed, he had it all these years, after he discovered they have little topsoil cover and shale below that. Bolts still have their marks on them and even the coulter and gauge wheel still have the original black paint. Was outside, but was a nice find, now have 2 NOS ford implements, the other is a subsoiler later model in ford blue.[/color:ea399eeabc]
NICE! My 110 still had it's gauge wheel and coulter as you probably remember.
Speaking of subsoilers, I'm tempted to make a sort of middle buster using one of my spring shanks with the chisel plow sweeps that really cut. When I need that shank back on the Cultivator I can unbolt it and move it over. Think it will work?
Thanks,
Terry
You wrote:
[color=darkblue:ea399eeabc]Agri Supply has a decent set close to that price range, but any of these, if you catch a tine into something, you will bend or break something.
[/color:ea399eeabc]
Do you mean bend or break something on the tractor or the forks?
[color=darkblue:ea399eeabc] I built a heavy set from a Woods DuAl universal forks just by adding a removable top link mast and pins for the lift arms. These are heavy duty tines, the weak spot is the 1 3/8" diameter rod that pins them to the frame and guard. Catch a tine or fool with it doing things you should not, that rod will bend. None of these are made for ground engaging type work. You will need to build something more substantial to deal with boulders if you plan to try and load them directly onto the forks and have to use same to pry out of the ground. Once out, for moving, just have to use care.[/color:ea399eeabc]
I haven't seen these local forks so I just have the guy's word that they are heavy duty and sideways adjustable.
[color=darkblue:ea399eeabc]Incidentally, few weeks back, found a ford 110 plow, NOS, sellers dad passed, he had it all these years, after he discovered they have little topsoil cover and shale below that. Bolts still have their marks on them and even the coulter and gauge wheel still have the original black paint. Was outside, but was a nice find, now have 2 NOS ford implements, the other is a subsoiler later model in ford blue.[/color:ea399eeabc]
NICE! My 110 still had it's gauge wheel and coulter as you probably remember.
Speaking of subsoilers, I'm tempted to make a sort of middle buster using one of my spring shanks with the chisel plow sweeps that really cut. When I need that shank back on the Cultivator I can unbolt it and move it over. Think it will work?
Thanks,
Terry
Bill Crowell
Member
Terry, I asked that question once over on the Tractor Talk forum (using a single spike on the back of an 8N to dislodge rocks), but everybody replied that there would be too much danger of the front of the 8N rising up.
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Tall T
Well-known Member
Thing is is that an excavator already dug them up and put them in a neat pile during some major landscaping across the road.
BUT he left the owner with that little pile of boulders up on a slope where the owner can't get to them. So we'll first roll them down a four foot bank to where he has soil for a lawn. So the rocks have to come down from their perch before
I rake the sticks and stones with my trusty rake.
So no DISLODGING to be done.
I just want to slide under each one, lift it and move it.
I'm thinking that if I back my bucket over a stone, lower it and get a little under the stone . . . then lifft it enough to slide a 4X4 under the boulder near the middle. Lower the bucket and take another pull at sliding the bucket under the stone.
Also if I had a long plank backstop so the boulders can't walk forward when I pull the bucket under them.. . like two heavy stakes and a 2X10 stop. Then just pick the boulder up enough to get over it and gone.
But I was wondering if forks would slide easier under the bucket.
BUT with forks I'd have to try to get under one in reverse.
With the bucket I can try both directions , but probably just pulling my way under will be the ticket.
But if pushing the bucket under in reverse, the boulder can then be muscled the rest of the way into the accessible bucket.
but with a carryall or pallet, there's going to also be pushing but heavy lifting as well.
We shall see
If it doesn't work I'll take my bucket and go home.
By the way,
what's a good hourly rate for industrial farm tractor work?
Thanks,
Terry
1.) Yes on the forks, none of these will stand up to using the tines other than designed, for pallets etc. I moved a huge log with an agri supply set of tube frame/tines, 4'-0" diameter, exceeding the rating, they held up, but later when catching one tine in the dirt on a root or something, just tore away from the frame.
2.)Post a photo if you can of what the seller has. I knew that when I saw this set of Woods DuAl universal forks it would be an easy conversion, (it was) and would be the least expensive option to haul logs in from my 98 some odd acres. These adjust along the 1 3/8" rod, just unlatch the catch and move sideways as needed. I think I like the type that have the thick upper rail with notches better than the mild steel rod, they will take more abuse, but knowing that rod will bend, it means that will take the abuse and not break or bend something more substantial. I keep an extra rod on hand.
3.) I remember when you got that 110, they are a nice plow for the larger gardens, plots and similar. I thought, well I already have one, but decided what the heck. This one has a one piece moldboard with no separate shin, so it's different, also has a suffix in the serial number. I have see 2 other 110 over the years, but they don't come up often. Serial number makes one believe they made a lot of them though.
4.) Might be worth a try, but looking at both implements they are vastly different in some respects, the subsoiler is made of a stout piece of cutting edge like plate, not sure if hardened, but it's a lot bigger than a chisel plow shank, (at least ones I am familiar with) + its braced and is designed to penetrate deeper, ideally in dry, hard soil so it fractures the soil. I think the wear part on the cultivator is too wide for being used a subsoiler. Might work as a middle buster, say for potatoes or similar.
2.)Post a photo if you can of what the seller has. I knew that when I saw this set of Woods DuAl universal forks it would be an easy conversion, (it was) and would be the least expensive option to haul logs in from my 98 some odd acres. These adjust along the 1 3/8" rod, just unlatch the catch and move sideways as needed. I think I like the type that have the thick upper rail with notches better than the mild steel rod, they will take more abuse, but knowing that rod will bend, it means that will take the abuse and not break or bend something more substantial. I keep an extra rod on hand.
3.) I remember when you got that 110, they are a nice plow for the larger gardens, plots and similar. I thought, well I already have one, but decided what the heck. This one has a one piece moldboard with no separate shin, so it's different, also has a suffix in the serial number. I have see 2 other 110 over the years, but they don't come up often. Serial number makes one believe they made a lot of them though.
4.) Might be worth a try, but looking at both implements they are vastly different in some respects, the subsoiler is made of a stout piece of cutting edge like plate, not sure if hardened, but it's a lot bigger than a chisel plow shank, (at least ones I am familiar with) + its braced and is designed to penetrate deeper, ideally in dry, hard soil so it fractures the soil. I think the wear part on the cultivator is too wide for being used a subsoiler. Might work as a middle buster, say for potatoes or similar.
![fF0aHtBh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com"](http://"https://i.imgur.com/fF0aHtBh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /)
![lMzrf7Xh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com"](http://"https://i.imgur.com/lMzrf7Xh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /)
![tabwcIyh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com"](http://"https://i.imgur.com/tabwcIyh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /)
Hobo,NC
Well-known Member
- Location
- Sanford, NC
I use my forks on my loader all the time they would have no problem moving a big rock as long as the loader would pick them up and the forks did not get tangled up in roots...
I think the biggest problem you would have is having to set the forks each time are getting them stuck up in roots and not being able to lift the rock... Not seeing the rocks you will have to angle the forks down to get under them the points will drive into the ground if they are sitting on top of the ground its very doable...
I think the biggest problem you would have is having to set the forks each time are getting them stuck up in roots and not being able to lift the rock... Not seeing the rocks you will have to angle the forks down to get under them the points will drive into the ground if they are sitting on top of the ground its very doable...
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Tall T
Well-known Member
Billy,
I don't think the forks are tubular but I definitely need to have a look at them before any more speculation. The guy is a seriously chronic stuff collector and I think that the forks are buried under a mountain of stuff in a van box . . . so I'll try getting him to drag them out. I think that these might be the notch adjustment style and hanging on a thick rail.
With the spring shank idea, I figured that the springs would be insurance against the shank breaking and these chisel plow sweeps really pull down and cut wide.
I've temporarily removed the home made "shovels" as WellMax called them. The Ferguson shanks are about 1/2" thick.
Thanks much,
Terry
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Tall T
Well-known Member
Kirk,
Beauty of a tractor; thanks for the photos!
The big boulder in your bucket is about the biggest one in this pile.
I see how your subsoiler is seriously more rugged than a single spring shank would be, so the shank idea would have to be limited to lighter duty middle busting potato work and maybe loosening up ground for shallow trenching with the corner of my blade.
Those spear points on your one arm bucket look great for getting under things.
Good stuff!
Thanks,
Terry
Beauty of a tractor; thanks for the photos!
The big boulder in your bucket is about the biggest one in this pile.
I see how your subsoiler is seriously more rugged than a single spring shank would be, so the shank idea would have to be limited to lighter duty middle busting potato work and maybe loosening up ground for shallow trenching with the corner of my blade.
Those spear points on your one arm bucket look great for getting under things.
Good stuff!
Thanks,
Terry
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Tall T
Well-known Member
Cary,
Impressively heavy duty forks!
No doubt the best way to acquire implements, having them come with the tractor!
I'd still be hunting for the five implements that came with my tractor and when they rarely come up on lists, they disappear in a day or two.
Now that I have a better idea of what is most useful to me, I got real lucky considering my inexperience at the time. Blade, Landscape Rake, Crane ,Carryall and a home made Drag.
Thanks,
Terry
(quoted from post at 17:31:57 03/24/18)
Kirk,
Now there's something I wouldn't have thought of!
So a hydraulic top link isn't the be-all-end-all, after all,
cause it doesn't have the down pressure of a rigid top link.
thanks for that,
Terry
I don't understand what you mean. There is no down pressure on the 3 point lift system no matter what kind of top link you have.
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Tall T
Well-known Member
Cary,
You wrote:
"I don't understand what you mean. There is no down pressure on the 3 point lift system no matter what kind of top link you have."
The way I understood Kirk was that with the hydraulic top link being collapsible under implement pressure the [b:9307f3b6cd]tilt [/b:9307f3b6cd]of the implement isn't fixed as it is with a rigid top link.
You wrote:
"I don't understand what you mean. There is no down pressure on the 3 point lift system no matter what kind of top link you have."
The way I understood Kirk was that with the hydraulic top link being collapsible under implement pressure the [b:9307f3b6cd]tilt [/b:9307f3b6cd]of the implement isn't fixed as it is with a rigid top link.
Hobo,NC
Well-known Member
- Location
- Sanford, NC
Just like a plow they will suck into the ground when you stick the tips in the ground... I should have said my forks are rated at 4000 lbs I have dug with them but don't force it...
Hobo,NC
Well-known Member
- Location
- Sanford, NC
I assume your scoop is reversible... Use a ratchet strap and tie the rock to it... Forks are no forks you will be getting off the tractor to adjust the forks are the angle of the dangle of the top link...
Yes a hydraulic top link would be help...
They way I understand it, a hydraulic top link is double acting just like the cylinders on my loader. Once the ram is in a certain position it's not going to move until you move it with the controls. The fluid will only compress to a certain amount. It doesn't work like a shock absorber.
(quoted from post at 19:20:25 03/24/18)
Oh, I see.
Just because it isn't double acting, doesn't mean it will give like a shock does. Good analogy!
Well then, I don't know what Kirk meant so I'm
back in the land of blissful ignorance awaiting resolution.
Thanks,
T
You're still losing me but I'm trying to understand what you mean. No top link whether solid or hydraulic is going to have down pressure. There is no down pressure on the 3 point lift arms. If the 3 point had down pressure, it would just lift the back tires off the ground and you would have no traction.
There is a top link they make that has no hoses or a pump connected with it. It is still called a hydraulic top link because you can use the valves on each end of it to set the ram inside it where you want it. It will then stay in that position and won't move. It works like a double acting cylinder but you have to manually move it to the length you want then close both valves and it will stay at that length.
I think Hobo had it closer to your thinking when he said that if you have a set of forks on a rear bucket and angle the forks down it will dig itself into the ground just like a plow does depending on how much power your tractor has.
A plow digs itself into the ground yet there is no down pressure on it anywhere other than its own weight.
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Tall T
Well-known Member
(quoted from post at 19:42:59 03/24/18)(quoted from post at 19:20:25 03/24/18)
Oh, I see.
Just because it isn't double acting, doesn't mean it will give like a shock does. Good analogy!
Well then, I don't know what Kirk meant so I'm
back in the land of blissful ignorance awaiting resolution.
Thanks,
T
You're still losing me but I'm trying to understand what you mean. No top link whether solid or hydraulic is going to have down pressure. There is no down pressure on the 3 point lift arms. If the 3 point had down pressure, it would just lift the back tires off the ground and you would have no traction.
There is a top link they make that has no hoses or a pump connected with it. It is still called a hydraulic top link because you can use the valves on each end of it to set the ram inside it where you want it. It will then stay in that position and won't move. It works like a double acting cylinder but you have to manually move it to the length you want then close both valves and it will stay at that length.
I think Hobo had it closer to your thinking when he said that if you have a set of forks on a rear bucket and angle the forks down it will dig itself into the ground just like a plow does depending on how much power your tractor has.
A plow digs itself into the ground yet there is no down pressure on it anywhere other than its own weight.
I know knothing!
Ask Kirk!
Signed,
Manuel
If the rocks will fit in your dirt scoop just reverse the scoop and adjust the toplink to angle down a little and scoop up the rock. if you don't want to take any dirt with it then get the scoop as close
as you can and walk the rock in with a rock bar. The hydraulic might help a little but not much. I move rock that size in my dirt scoop all the time. Sometimes I'll dig them out with a backhoe. This pile
of rocks from the garden started as a depression and i figured i'd level it out now it's just another rock pile on the property.Plenty of rock here. My rock picker pulled 13 triaxles out of my property
last year. Average was 3 to 4 foot wide.
<a href="https://imgur.com/dRFMHjA">
![dRFMHjAh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com"](http://"https://i.imgur.com/dRFMHjAh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /)
</a>
<a href="https://imgur.com/K9CZ0kr">
![K9CZ0krh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com"](http://"https://i.imgur.com/K9CZ0krh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /)
</a>
<a href="https://imgur.com/nFkTgAO">
![nFkTgAOh.jpg](http://"https://i.imgur.com/nFkTgAOh.jpg?1" title="source: imgur.com" /)
</
<a href="https://imgur.com/VrVjKp9">
![VrVjKp9h.jpg" title="source: imgur.com"](http://"https://i.imgur.com/VrVjKp9h.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /)
</a>
as you can and walk the rock in with a rock bar. The hydraulic might help a little but not much. I move rock that size in my dirt scoop all the time. Sometimes I'll dig them out with a backhoe. This pile
of rocks from the garden started as a depression and i figured i'd level it out now it's just another rock pile on the property.Plenty of rock here. My rock picker pulled 13 triaxles out of my property
last year. Average was 3 to 4 foot wide.
<a href="https://imgur.com/dRFMHjA">
<a href="https://imgur.com/K9CZ0kr">
<a href="https://imgur.com/nFkTgAO">
<a href="https://imgur.com/VrVjKp9">
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Tall T
Well-known Member
Kirk,
Thanks for the visuals; I wish I had a rock pile like that. They are useful for so many things.
Right about reversing the bucket and getting as far under as possible then crowbarring the rock all the way into the bucket.
That was one of my first thoughts so I'll settle on that I'll use the biggest rock as a backstop for getting under one. I can get my assistant to stab my big bar into the ground behind a rock and lean on it as I try to get under it. I'll be careful to not flatten him.
Is that big yellow rig a skidder?
T
Thanks for the visuals; I wish I had a rock pile like that. They are useful for so many things.
Right about reversing the bucket and getting as far under as possible then crowbarring the rock all the way into the bucket.
That was one of my first thoughts so I'll settle on that I'll use the biggest rock as a backstop for getting under one. I can get my assistant to stab my big bar into the ground behind a rock and lean on it as I try to get under it. I'll be careful to not flatten him.
Is that big yellow rig a skidder?
T
![GZhuobQh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com"](http://"https://i.imgur.com/GZhuobQh.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /)
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