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Front transmission seal replacement

F

Fullers Farmalls

Member
All, per your advice on my last post I did
do several things for the old 9N. I bought
several parts from here to work on the old
gal. Now I feel I can tackle the job of
putting in a front transmission seal. It's
leaking really bad and we just had the
clutch replaced. The guy didn't replace the
seals so I am going to do it Friday. Can
those seals be ordered from Napa or do I
have to specially order them? Does the FO-?
manual show it step by step? How hard is it
to do in the span of a day? Any special
tools or skills I'll need? Any other seals
I should look at while im tearing it apart,
again. Thanks in advance. Also dash on my
tractor is all aluminum. Is that typical of
all 9Ns?
 
The input shaft seal Ford PN 8N7052A2 crosses over to SKF 13568. NAPA should be able to get the SKF number for you. You will also need the bearing retainer gasket (9N7086) and I do not have a cross reference for that. You may be able to Permatex and reuse the old one or cut a new gasket.

There's a good possibility the pilot bearing (SKF 6203-2ZJ) wasn't replaced if the input shaft seal was overlooked.

Paragraph 99 in the FO-4 discusses the split but I couldn't find anything regarding R&R of the input shaft seal but's it's a straight forward procedure.
 
"How hard is it to do in the span of a day? "

It can be done in a day. Drain the gas tank the night before. You have to remove the hood to split the tractor. Have you done this before. Well outlined in the FO4 manual and the usual youtube stuff. Good to have a helper. Removal the input shaft and replacing the seal is straight forward. Post back if you have more questions.
 
Anyone who replaced the clutch & p/p w/o replacing the front transmission seal probably didn't replace the pilot or throw-out bearing either. I'd replce both while I was in there.

See tips 12 & 59 at the link.
75 Tips
 
I have the hood off and most of it torn apart working on other stuff. But I've never split a tractor so I was just nervous how hard it is. Thanks for the reply.
 
Just take care and you will have no problems splitting it. Block the engine so that it does fall over.
 
I don't understand why only some parts of a clutch are replaced, if that is the case. I just did the clutch in my 2500 Dodge with a six speed and there is no way I would want to take that out on my driveway twice.
 

When splitting any tractor there are a few key points to observe. put a level on the side of the motor where the oil pan meets the block and insure that the tractor is level from front to back. cut wedges from wood and drive one in on each side at the front axle to keep the front from pivoting and tipping over. Make a rolling stand for the rear from a trailer jack. Lean it against the left side of the rear housing then fabricate a bracket to bolt to the side of the housing and to the jack. This is usually done by removing the round cover where your PTO lever is. Jack the front and block in place. When all bolts and tubes etc are removed Roll the REAR away from the front. The rear will roll much more easily than the front and with the tailer jack wheel rigidly attached to the tractor you will be SAFE.
 
(quoted from post at 14:20:32 03/21/18) Just take care and you will have no problems splitting it. Block the engine so that it does fall over.
Click to expand...


Sure would be nice if the edit function worked! :wink:
 
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