Tractor Storage II

carpetfarmer · Mar 9, 2018

While reading through replies to Rich MN's post about tractor storage I got to wondering about gas tanks. Even if you run a tank and a carb dry...they can still rust from condensation due to temperature changes.

What are your opinions on filling the tank and carb with diesel to keep them lubricated and keep them from rusting? I haven't tried this yet, just started thinking about it.

carpetfarmer · Mar 9, 2018

I have 4 tractors that are/will be sitting indefinitely and I filled all the cylinders with ATF last summer to help keep them from locking up. I plan to check/refill them every year/couple of years until I get around to working on them. It doesn't cost that much to do so and if it works, I believe it will be well worth the money.

L.Fure · Mar 9, 2018

Keeping everything full helps the condensation situation, but you can not expect the tractor to sit for many years without some problems. My tractors may only sit during a winter unused. If I had to let one sit for a few years I would add a little oil to each cylinder, and spin the engine a couple of times a year to keep things loose.

Dollar Bill · Mar 9, 2018

The tanks were terne plated inside and out so unless the tank was damaged, it [u:50e85d03ff]shouldn't[/u:50e85d03ff] rust.

If it were me, I would fill with ethanol free gas and 10ozs of ATF. Drive it around so it sloshes all over the inside of the tank and leave it.

Jim in Western MI · Mar 9, 2018

Anyone remember "cosmoline?" It was a military grease that was used to prevent corrosion. Rifles were virtually packed in it, and heavy machinery and artillery coated with it. Seems like even exposure to salt air and water didn't result in rust, even after years. After WWII, many military surplus stores had things that were ten or fifteen years old, and when cleaned up looked brand new. If I were inventive, an aerosol spray of that stuff would be a good product for old tractor guys like us, but also have a good market in the marine boating environment. OK, back to my rocking chair!

R Geiger · Mar 9, 2018

(quoted from post at 08:57:23 03/09/18) Anyone remember "cosmoline?" It was a military grease that was used to prevent corrosion. Rifles were virtually packed in it, and heavy machinery and artillery coated with it. Seems like even exposure to salt air and water didn't result in rust, even after years. After WWII, many military surplus stores had things that were ten or fifteen years old, and when cleaned up looked brand new. If I were inventive, an aerosol spray of that stuff would be a good product for old tractor guys like us, but also have a good market in the marine boating environment. OK, back to my rocking chair!

CRC makes several different corrosion inhibitors. Google is your friend. When I was working in Papua New Guinea our spare transmissions were coated ands it prevented corrosion.

Tall T · Mar 9, 2018

Bill,

About ethanol free gas . . .
Initially I was buying purple gas for the tractor but the last time I bought some regular blend.

Last month when I fired up the tractor after a month of that gas being in the tank and was surprised to find my sediment bowl valve giving me resistance for the one-turn opening. Prior to that my valve has been so freewheeling that I could crack it and practically open it with one finger using that little pointer I put on the knob.

Would it be ethanol swelling up the seal?

Thanks,
Terry

Dean · Mar 9, 2018

Tall T · Mar 9, 2018

(quoted from post at 12:26:16 03/09/18) Yes.

Dean,

Questions:

1. Will it cause my shutoff valve to fail?

2. Should I syphon the tractor tank and put the right stuff back in?

3. Exactly what types of materials are negatively affected by ethanol?

4. If I put it into my '53 Chev, '54 Cornbinder, will it affect mechanical fuel pump seals, diaphragms, carb accelerator pumps,?

Thanks,
T

Frontline1 · Mar 9, 2018

I'd be more apt to pull the fuel line and drain the gas into a jug at the carb, rather than siphon it (an N is one of the few things you don't HAVE to siphon

). I kinda wonder if that might be the best idea for water, too, leave the plug out of the carb and leave the fuel line hanging.......

Mike Groom · Mar 9, 2018

Fill the gas tank with ethanol free premium,it doesn't varnish like unleaded,we do that with our Harley's every year and they can set for a couple of years if need be and the tanks and engine are fine,no rust and the engine starts right up.

pete black · Mar 9, 2018

here you go, do not know age or where i got it.

L.Fure · Mar 9, 2018

(quoted from post at 15:57:23 03/09/18) Anyone remember "cosmoline?" It was a military grease that was used to prevent corrosion. Rifles were virtually packed in it, and heavy machinery and artillery coated with it. Seems like even exposure to salt air and water didn't result in rust, even after years. After WWII, many military surplus stores had things that were ten or fifteen years old, and when cleaned up looked brand new. If I were inventive, an aerosol spray of that stuff would be a good product for old tractor guys like us, but also have a good market in the marine boating environment. OK, back to my rocking chair!

I remember cosmoline very well. My dad used to buy surplus military rifles. Some came still packed in that stuff. It took a lot of time cleaning it off the rifle with gasoline and a brush.

carpetfarmer · Mar 9, 2018

That's what I do, I installed an 1/8" ball
valve on the carb drain with a hose barb
coming out of the ball valve. I sanded the
barbs off so its smooth, then I run a short
length of fuel hose into the gas can and
have a quick and non messy way to drain the
system dry when I'm done with the tractor.
Open the valve and walk away. The next day I go out and put the cap on the gas can and
close the valve and it's ready for the next
use.

I would be a bit cautious if you leave the
fuel line dangling free as unwanted guests
such as mud dobbers can make their way into the line and plug it up.

carpetfarmer · Mar 9, 2018

That's interesting, I did not know that...makes sense though.

Tall T · Mar 9, 2018

(quoted from post at 16:02:09 03/09/18) I'd be more apt to pull the fuel line and drain the gas into a jug at the carb, rather than siphon it (an N is one of the few things you don't HAVE to siphon ). I kinda wonder if that might be the best idea for water, too, leave the plug out of the carb and leave the fuel line hanging.......

Frontline,
If that was a reply to me, good plan!
Gravity feed momentarily slipped my mind.

As far as filling the tank with Premium no ethanol fuel
as Mike Black recommended . . .

I stopped by the gas station to try and find out which of the three choices had the least or "no" ethanol. Dream on! the young fella did his best but didn't have a clue so he gave me the manager's business card.
On these particular pumps:
!. Regular
2. Mid Grade (which includes purple)
3. Premium

I can't remember which one I tried last but before that I was using Mid Grade or purple Mid Grade with no change in my shutoff stem feel.

So in this case, I won't have a clue if Regular or Premium has the most ethanol until I phone the manager.

So maybe as per Mike Black, in these pumps it is the premium with the LEAST or NO ethanol blended in. (?)

Terry

Ed S. · Mar 10, 2018

I share this not as a recommendation, but only as a data point based on my personal experience over the past decade or more.

Come late Autumn, I go buy fresh gas (~10% ethanol) and add Stabil per the recommended amount on the bottle.

I then top off all my equipment gas tanks from what I just mixed (and will add some Stabil if that machine's tank still had some gas in it).

I crank the machine and let it run 10-15 minutes. Shut down, drain and change the oil and any filters. Turn off fuel (if so equipped), air up tires (if needed), and park it (inside the machine shed).

This goes for all my small engines up to the 8N.

I have never had a problem the following year (they always start right up), and have not had any issues with swelling o-rings or the like.

The one change I made this past Winter was to add battery maintainers to the 8N (6V), Boomer 8N and Hesston 6400.

Again, YMMV, and I'm not making a recommendation, only reporting my experience as a data point.

es

L.Fure · Mar 10, 2018

Ed S.,
That's what I do with one difference. I use Seafoam as a gas stabilizer. Seafoam has prevented a lot of carburetor tear downs since I started using it in all my engines. I do have a couple worn butterfly shafts that need to be replaced, and that is as far into these carburetors I need to go.

DoubleO7 · Mar 10, 2018

In general it would be a good idea to place a sheet of vis-queen under the gas fill cap then install cap.

If you keep the atmosphere out you will keep moisture out.

Hobo,NC · Mar 10, 2018

DIESEL IS NOT A GOOD ID... I would not waist a take full of gas on it either... Drain the tank and carb air it out if need be I had rather nuttin be in it than something that absorbs moisture...

If would be a good time for good old WD-40 but its long gone...

carpetfarmer · Mar 10, 2018

Thank you all for the info. Haven't done it yet, and don't believe I will. Sounds like it's better just to drain it all out real good and seal the cap. That will be the practice.

HFJ · Mar 10, 2018

a stock N gas cap is not vented. if your tank vent becomes plugged, the cap seals well enough to cause a vacuum to form as gas is used.

that's why i'm not sure how much benefit will be gained by visqueen under the cap, altho it won't do any harm.

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