Newbie with a new toy!

RUHokie

Member
Hello all! New to posting, but have been reading for years. Just got a 1950 Ford 8n with bush hog on Sunday, and am tinkering with it in an effort to get it up and running. It's funny...a 1950 Ford 8n was the VERY FIRST MOTORIZED vehicle I ever drove. My paternal grandfather had one and he taught me to drive it when I was 8 years old! My aunt still has that tractor, but she won't turn loose of it, so I bought one from a neighbor. This tractor sat in his garage for at least 15 years without being started. When we tried to roll it out, it seemed stuck in gear, but after rocking it a little bit, it broke free and we towed it home with my L-35 Kubota. There is a tar-like substance in the gas tank, and the sediment bowl is filled with the same tar-like substance. I have removed the hood and have noticed that all wires are cut from the key switch and the starter button. The neighbor said the starter solenoid was bad and he started it with a screwdriver! When I first tried to turn the fan blades by hand, they would not move, but after a little hand pressure, the water pump broke free and will turn now, but not the motor. I can't really get much grip on the motor pulley. I'm wondering if anybody can offer any advice as to what I do next. Do I need to remove the plugs and squirt PB Blaster in the cylinders? Should I try towing it around the farm in 4th gear? Some ideas would be GREATLY appreciated! I'm really looking forward to getting this little tractor running for my grandson.

Thanks in advance!
 

Squirt some PB in the spark plug hole and let it soak for w few days. The gunk in the gas tank and sediment bowl is what's left of the gas after sitting unused all this time. You'll need to get it cleaned out before you try to run the engine. Try hot soapy water on the sediment bowl to see it that will work. Check the fuel line to make sure it isn't plugged. The carburetor will need to be rebuilt also. I imagine it's full of goop or crud from the old gas.
 
(quoted from post at 06:33:01 02/20/18)
Squirt some PB in the spark plug hole and let it soak for w few days. The gunk in the gas tank and sediment bowl is what's left of the gas after sitting unused all this time. You'll need to get it cleaned out before you try to run the engine. Try hot soapy water on the sediment bowl to see it that will work. Check the fuel line to make sure it isn't plugged. The carburetor will need to be rebuilt also. I imagine it's full of goop or crud from the old gas.

Had not thought about the fuel line...thanks! I'll check it today. Plan to pull the carb and clean it and then rebuild if necessary. I used brake cleaner on the fuel filter, but so far it hasn't worked. Could buy a new one, but would like to keep the original if possible.
With the plugs out, should I be able to turn the motor by hand at the fan pulley?
 
I would pour a cup of Marvel Mystery Oil down
each spark plug hole and let it sit for two
weeks.
Try getting a wrench on the nut on the front
pulley and tweak it a bit now and then.
If you can't get it to turn after a
couple/three weeks you will have to pull the
head.
Decide what to do if you have to pull the head
off.
If the tractor needs overhauled I would cut my
losses right then and there and part it out.
Take the $ and buy one that runs.
There are So many Ns for sale around the
country that you can buy a decent running one
for less than you'll spend rebuilding the
engine.
There are so many guys here that have bought an
old hulk N and then spent $3-$4K+ restoring it.
For that kind of dough you can buy a newer
tractor that has way more features and is just
as fun to tinker with. And your grandson won't
know or care that it's a 600 or 2000 and not an
N.
 

"With the plugs out, should I be able to turn the motor by hand at the fan pulley?"

Not likely if there is corrosion that has the rings seized to the cylinder walls. Need that PB Blaster to work on it. ATF is also good, fellows here have all sorts of home brew formulas that should work too.

Seems to me you'll need to do a bit of work and repair on your new toy. I let my 9N sit for two years and it took several days to get things ship-shape enough that it would start again... cleaned the carb (carb had been on an 8N and was re-built about 2 yrs. ago) and fuel lines and filters, cleaned the plugs, put new points, condenser and cap and rotor on it. The old cap and rotor didn't fit right. It was parked due to no spark and since I didn't need it I let it sit. Had to take the 8N out of service so the old girl had to step up once again. So far runs like a top, but the clutch is just about gone. A split is in its future.
 
Make sure before you run the 8N with bush hog you get an overriding coupler and put it between the PTO shaft and the bush hogs coupling. They sell them on this site
 
(quoted from post at 08:15:46 02/20/18) Make sure before you run the 8N with bush hog you get an overriding coupler and put it between the PTO shaft and the bush hogs coupling. They sell them on this site

I don't plan to bush hog with the 8N. I'll use the L-35 Kubota for that. My old bush hog is so rusted, it will only last one more season without some major sheet metal work. The new one is rust free, and much heavier.

Thanks for the reply!
 
I poured about 1/2 cup of PB Blaster down each spark plug hole and will let it set at least overnight before I give it a try. I've got an old Farmall Cub hand crank that fits the 8n enough to try to turn the engine, so I'll give it a gentle tug tomorrow and see if anything budges. I went ahead and pulled the carb and will soak it overnight in carb cleaner as well before I try taking it apart for a thorough cleaning and possible rebuild.
I don't plan on making this tractor a trailer queen, just something that the grandsons can tinker with and learn on. It might come in handy puling an orchard sprayer around the grove here near the Space Coast of Florida. I recently survived open heart surgery and have some time on my hands, so I thought this might make a good project to tinker with. I have a 1946 Farmall H also, so I've got a soft spot for old iron! The H is used to pull parade floats and hay ride wagons occasionally.
Thanks for all the replies!
 
(quoted from post at 11:16:01 02/20/18) why do you always knock N series Fords. get off your soap box. its what the guy wanted. leave it be.

Steve,

In fairness, UD didn't start off advising against N's.

He said:
"If the tractor needs overhauled I would cut my
losses right then and there and part it out."

Good advice and super relative to the owners tools, time. money and mechanical experience and expectations.

"There are So many Ns for sale around the
country that you can buy a decent running one
for less than you'll spend rebuilding the
engine."

He suggested that RU search out [b:67fd58dd7c]another N[/b:67fd58dd7c] that wouldn't be a case of good money after bad.

At the end UD is just recommending that if a person wants a tractor as much for utility as antique appeal, then he should seek out something with live hydraulics etc.

If I had as a newbie, bought an N rather than a Jubilee and later found out the differences between my Jube and the N, I'd be looking to trade up.
Both tractor ranges are classy so unless one's attraction is based more on emotional attachment, specific look, or the enjoyment of a challenge that is a gamble . . .
why not think ahead a few years. :)

Heck, now I'd like a hundred series with floating axles.

T
 
Had a farmall H with the same mess in the tank and bowl, plus this sledge made it into two of the cylinders, Sea Foam Deep Creep freed up the engine while rocking the rear wheel back and forth for a couple weeks, bowl had to be replaced as the inside just deteriorated to a grey sledge. Thought I had the tank cleaned out well but the owner never drove the tractor enough to keep the rust from coming back and replaced the tank with a different one. Ethanol gas will get the sludge out of the tank but rust will condemn it after that. Also check for stuck valves before rocking the engine much.
 
RUHokie,

This seems to be the key point that I missed:
"I'm really looking forward to getting this little tractor running for my grandson."
:)

About that "tar like substance"
It is rotten gas that basically turns to varnish.
I found that acetone dissolves it even quicker than lacquer thinner.

Another weapon for your arsenal that really works instantly to dissolve rust and corrosion and even dissolves the gum left behind when useless WD-40 oxidizes. Willo chew it's way down around your stuck pistons too. Amsoil MP

I was dribbling Amsoil MP over this collar on my plow's coulter to get this runoff action. First pitch black rust, then dark to lighter browns. Try it and you'll see. Simple as that. :)
11123.jpg
 
In the interest of full disclosure . . . :)

I used heat on that Coulter collar first
but it is cold in the photo where I dribbling MP over it -- without brushing too just to show. But of course brushing speeds things up and saves MP.

This time, no heat so it's good example of actually dissolving unheated rust, gum or corrosion like in your engine.

It's half the drive shaft of my MF Rotary Cutter
11129.jpg
 
why would i give him info if i have none to give. he asked for info not your opinion of the N series. i hijacked nothing. to paraphrase: "why not spend a little more money and buy a real tractor" is your constant refrain regarding N's.
 
[i:654c4848f0]"why would i give him info if i have none to give."[/i:654c4848f0]

You said a mouthful there Steve.

[i:654c4848f0]"why not spend a little more money and buy a real tractor" is your constant refrain regarding N's."[/i:654c4848f0]


Maybe you should do a bit of boning up on your reading and comprehension skills.
What I have said here many times and will continue to say is if you buy an old N for say, $1200 then spend another $1500 rebuilding the engine and maybe another $1000 on this and that you'll have spent yourself into the realm of a decent running 600, 801, 2000, 3000, 4000 - all of which have more features than Ns.
Do you dispute that?
I try to explain to new guys that there's a price point where you can get a better tractor that gives you more bang for your buck - so don't over spend on this one.
If you think that is untruthful or bashing Ns so be it.
Lastly, if you think that bashing me for your mistaken perception that I'm bashing Ns will change my behavior, opinions or advice here you are fooling yourself.
It will cause me to change my opinion of you - make me esteem and heed you less but that's about all it will do.
 

RU, are you a Hokie? my daughter is. Congratulations on you N! above all be patient with her. Don't try towing as it is too easy to damage something. I think that the best way to nudge the motor is to jack one rear up, and every now and then just rock the wheel back and forth with the transmission in fourth. This method takes no time once you get it set up and it gives you a little inertia to make the bump a little more forceful.
 
i will remind you every time you bash an N. advice is one thing and you have given good stuff. your view on N's is opinion and make sure the next time you do it don't do it after the guy has his tractor. after all a fella may want an N because his grandfather or father or uncle had one or mebbe he just likes the N series as i did. someone who already has his N does not need you or anybody else to tell him he made a mistake.



i am done for now. see you at the next bashing.
 
:D :D Woohoo!! :D :D The motor is free!

After soaking overnight in PB Blaster, I put it in 2nd gear and gently rocked it back and forth. On the 3rd try, the fan pulley turned slightly. I put the Farmall Cub starter crank in the fan pulley and gave it a tug. It moved about a quarter turn. Another tug moved it half way, and the third tug let me make an entire revolution of the hand crank. I hooked a battery to it and spun it over a few times, enjoying a brief PB Blaster shower! Covering the spark plug holes with a rag, I spun it a couple more times. I got my compression tester and checked each cylinder...120 in #1,#2, and #4, and 95 in #3. Not too bad, right? Maybe once it's running, #3 will improve. Thanks to EVERYONE for the suggestions and advice. I really appreciate your kindness!

Now for another problem. After soaking the carb overnight in a bucket of carb cleaner, I disassembled the carb very carefully. Youtube was a big help with this procedure. The larger brass jet in the top of the carb was a bugger to remove, but persistence and PB Blaster finally paid off. However, when I tried to remove the recessed smaller jet in front of the large one, I destroyed the screwdriver slot. It is so very stuck, and the brass is so very soft! Can any of you gurus out there help me? I am open to suggestions. Is it possible to VERY CAREFULLY drill the soft brass out without ruining the cast iron? I have ordered a rebuild kit from ytmag, but I have to get that smaller jet out before I can replace it with the new one. Other than that, the carb is cleaning up pretty good. Man, that varnish/tar/goop is tough, but I am slowly scraping and dissolving and scraping and dissolving it all out.

Thanks again for all the help thus far!

RUHokie
 
I got excited to hear your engine broke free. If worse comes to worse. And you do have to drill out your jet. You could get a left hand drill bit. That way when you start drilling- MAYBE it will turn out. Harbor freight has them- I looked it up and theirs one 24miles away from Mills FL. good luck.
 
(quoted from post at 11:42:29 02/21/18) :D :D Woohoo!! :D :D The motor is free!

After soaking overnight in PB Blaster, I put it in 2nd gear and gently rocked it back and forth. On the 3rd try, the fan pulley turned slightly. I put the Farmall Cub starter crank in the fan pulley and gave it a tug. It moved about a quarter turn. Another tug moved it half way, and the third tug let me make an entire revolution of the hand crank. I hooked a battery to it and spun it over a few times, enjoying a brief PB Blaster shower! Covering the spark plug holes with a rag, I spun it a couple more times. I got my compression tester and checked each cylinder...120 in #1,#2, and #4, and 95 in #3. Not too bad, right? Maybe once it's running, #3 will improve. Thanks to EVERYONE for the suggestions and advice. I really appreciate your kindness!

Now for another problem. After soaking the carb overnight in a bucket of carb cleaner, I disassembled the carb very carefully. Youtube was a big help with this procedure. The larger brass jet in the top of the carb was a bugger to remove, but persistence and PB Blaster finally paid off. However, when I tried to remove the recessed smaller jet in front of the large one, I destroyed the screwdriver slot. It is so very stuck, and the brass is so very soft! Can any of you gurus out there help me? I am open to suggestions. Is it possible to VERY CAREFULLY drill the soft brass out without ruining the cast iron? I have ordered a rebuild kit from ytmag, but I have to get that smaller jet out before I can replace it with the new one. Other than that, the carb is cleaning up pretty good. Man, that varnish/tar/goop is tough, but I am slowly scraping and dissolving and scraping and dissolving it all out.

Thanks again for all the help thus far!

RUHokie

If you an get the jet clean and the passage way is clean, leave it there. ethis the one you are talking about?
11156.jpg
 
Yep, that's the little bugger! Mine is recessed down in the cast about 3/32 of an inch, and is really tough to get to with any screwdriver of size. I was using a gunsmiths screwdriver when I screwed the pooch.
 
Keep soaking the cylinders plenty while working on that other stuff. Every say or so give it a slow turn. Help free up the rings.. When you get it running, work it like a rented mule . THAT will help too.
 
So, if I end up having to drill it out, what size drill bit should I use? Would a 5/16ths be appropriate or should I go smaller? Hand drill or drill press? I think drilling it out will be a last resort.
 
Yes Showcrop, I am indeed a Hokie! I bleed Orange and Maroon! I have been a Hokie since the early 1970's (Class of 1975) and even though I live in Florida, I still own season tickets to the football games and make it back to one or two each year. I'm sure your daughter is a fine lady since she is a Hokie :D :)
 
I have found that when the jets don't want to come out that baking the part in an oven at 400F, then let it cool, they will come out easy. You might get lucky:)

later
deano
 
(quoted from post at 15:11:31 02/21/18) So, if I end up having to drill it out, what size drill bit should I use? Would a 5/16ths be appropriate or should I go smaller? Hand drill or drill press? I think drilling it out will be a last resort.

my chart says for a 10-32 NF use a 11/64 drill bit but I would use a smaller one. I would want to stay out of the threads myself.
 
Congrats on getting the engine to break free!

In regards to the jet, if you end up deciding to try and drill it out what about trying the oven trick along with an easy out extractor first?
 

Once you destroy the screwdriver slot, there is no way an easy out would fit in without some drilling. I like the heating idea and left handed drill bit. Just stay smaller than the thread diameter. I like said befoe if the jet hole is good ands the passage way is clear, I would use it before trying to drill it out.
 
Once you destroy the screwdriver slot, there is no way an easy out would fit in without some drilling.

Correct but he could start with a smaller drill bit to accommodate the extractor first. I suppose the left handed bit would act somewhat in the same way, except no taper for force, which might be a good thing with a carb. I too like the oven idea...gonna have to remember that.

Good Luck with whichever route you choose! I'm sure you'll get it.
 
(quoted from post at 14:18:43 02/21/18) Yes Showcrop, I am indeed a Hokie! I bleed Orange and Maroon! I have been a Hokie since the early 1970's (Class of 1975) and even though I live in Florida, I still own season tickets to the football games and make it back to one or two each year. I'm sure your daughter is a fine lady since she is a Hokie :D :)

I am wearing my VT sweat shirt as I am typing this.
 
(quoted from post at 17:22:24 02/21/18) I have found that when the jets don't want to come out that baking the part in an oven at 400F, then let it cool, they will come out easy. You might get lucky:)

later
deano
And if you don't have an oven available, meaning the better half
is home ;) , boiling them in water works too. I put a little Dawn
dish soap or Murphey's oil soap in the water. Helps clean up the
grease and grime as well. Both methods help with that.
Any old garage sale hotplate will work or the side burner on a grill.

For future rebuilds, hollow ground screwdrivers do far less damage.
They're spendy, but not as bad as a new carb top if it gets
messed up drilling and taping. Here's an [b:d102aa3d67]example.[/b:d102aa3d67]
You wouldn't need the whole set. #3 and #16 for the jets, IIRC.
And they are sold separately.
 
Thanks Royse and Deano. What GREAT ideas! I'll give them a try tomorrow!
Thanks to all for your help. I'll keep you posted!
 
sorry about the squabbling it doesn't usually happen RUHokie I did the same thing for my grandson and ill do what it takes do to sentimental value :D
 

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