Ford 8n pulling engine

FordNMan

Member
Hi I'm new to the forum and am seeking some advice. I have an 8n that I want to soup up for a pulling/show tractor. I want to put in bigger pistons, valves, shave head and block, stroke the cam and crank and put on a bigger carb. I'm in Wisconsin and I'm trying to find an engine shop in WI, MN, or IA that will do the engine for me. If anybody knows of an engine shop that soups up N's let me know. I also am looking for another N to buy while my engine is being built. Anything under 1000 as long as it runs (doesn't have to be pretty) and is in Wisconsin or west Minnesota. If you have one to sell contact me @ [email protected]
 
I don't know how much to stroke the cam or anything which is why I just want someone to do it professionally
 
What class will you be pulling in? I have pulled with N's and done all right but you do know that N's don't typical do well at the pulls?

Kirk
 
I know a guy in Princeton, MN that
does all our engine work for us that
could probably do it for you. He used
to do a lot of pulling so knows a lot
about it and is a good engine man with
reasonable rates.
He used to run an Oliver with two big
block Chevy engines in it. I never saw
it run but it was a pretty awesome
machine.
Email me if you'd like his number.
 
(quoted from post at 04:17:22 02/13/18) I know a guy in Princeton, MN that
does all our engine work for us that
could probably do it for you. He used
to do a lot of pulling so knows a lot
about it and is a good engine man with
reasonable rates.
He used to run an Oliver with two big
block Chevy engines in it. I never saw
it run but it was a pretty awesome
machine.
Email me if you'd like his number.
 
(quoted from post at 05:53:17 02/13/18) Hi I'm new to the forum and am seeking some advice. I have an 8n that I want to soup up for a pulling/show tractor. I want to put in bigger pistons, valves, shave head and block, stroke the cam and crank and put on a bigger carb. I'm in Wisconsin and I'm trying to find an engine shop in WI, MN, or IA that will do the engine for me. If anybody knows of an engine shop that soups up N's let me know. I also am looking for another N to buy while my engine is being built. Anything under 1000 as long as it runs (doesn't have to be pretty) and is in Wisconsin or west Minnesota. If you have one to sell contact me @ [email protected]

Just anyone can't grind a cam shaft to good results. That person needs to know what they are doing. I have a friend that pulls a Minneapolis Moline G1000 and a GVI. He had the cam ground by a fellow who does this sort of thing. It helped a lot with the torque output of the engine. I'll see him tomorrow, so I'll ask him who does this work.
You're going to have a ton of money stuck in this project and still might not be a competitive puller. I'd start with bigger pistons and a cam grind, then maybe have the crank stroked if you are not happy with those results.
 

"Just anyone can't grind a cam shaft to good results. That person needs to know what they are doing."

That is probably why he is looking for references.
 
I have a set of new .080 oversize pistons and rings for an 8N if you're interested.They are run without sleeves.E-mail is open.
 
With respect to a cam grinder , I highly recommend these
guys : http://www.bulletcams.com/Tractors/index.html

One thing to remember when modifying an engine for antique
pullers.. If you make more power than you?re supposed to for
that tractor you may be bumped to a different class.. One that
will put the little N at a major disadvantage.

The other thing to remember is when you call the camgrinder
wanting to know what he can do , he will have A LOT of
questions for you regarding what your engine has done to it.
What is the actual compression ratio , what is the bore , the
stroke , the desired rpm , what type of valve train are you
going to use , will you be using stock valve springs , if not then
what kind , IE: what are the specs on the springs such as
installed height , and the strength of the springs at the
installed height and when fully compressed.

And remember , it?s one thing to make juice even though it?s
not worth the squeeze if you are doing the squeezing
yourself... It?s quite another to pay someone to do the
squeezeing for what only amounts to a tiny bit of juice lol.

Good luck .
 

Yes, stroke the cam all the way.and while you are at it, replace the rear Axles with much stronger ones..

We used old 8N axles as teeth for our Manure loader, so many were broken..

I would build a Flat Head Ford V-8 instead...
 

You just can't stick a ground camshaft in the engine like a stock one. The cam timing will have to be changed. The machinist usually give written instructions on how to time the cam.

Are you really sure you want to spend this much money and time on a N engine? Maybe you should buy a newer model ford tractor and see what that does on the track?
 
If you know so little as your post indicates,I'd start with a Cub Cadet,Wheelhorse or Simplicity in Garden tractor classes. I've been riding my 2N for over 70 years and
I know it won't do ANY of what you want.You can't put soup in a strainer !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
(quoted from post at 15:59:54 02/13/18)

[b:d2d40bc13e]You can't put soup in a strainer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!![/b:d2d40bc13e]

sure u can. u just won't catch much of it :)
 
(quoted from post at 20:59:54 02/13/18) If you know so little as your post indicates,I'd start with a Cub Cadet,Wheelhorse or Simplicity in Garden tractor classes. I've been riding my 2N for over 70 years and
I know it won't do ANY of what you want.You can't put soup in a strainer !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

When I used to pull in an antique pulling club they had two weight classes for the smaller tractors. This is before everyone started souping up their tractors. You had to keep your tractor engines stock, or as close to stock as was necessary. One class was 2850 and the other was 3250. It was fun watching the pipsqueaks pull the sled. Now they don't even have the light classes.
 
Another consideration: I've read that the 8N rear end is only designed to handle ~30 horsepower! My 8N was stock and I had the tips of some ring gear teeth come out when I changed the fluid.
 
(quoted from post at 14:12:47 02/13/18) Another consideration: I've read that the 8N rear end is only designed to handle ~30 horsepower! My 8N was stock and I had the tips of some ring gear teeth come out when I changed the fluid.

That's some pretty determined ring gear teeth to get from the bell housing into the oil pan. Maybe tips of some distributor drive gear teeth
 
(quoted from post at 01:21:32 02/14/18) They sure did I have 2 sets still in the boxes.M and W high compression domes.

Do you know how much of a horse power increase they would develop?
 
Here is you one ready to go. 8n v8 302 engine. 225 hp never pulled it.
a256927.jpg
 

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