8N with bucket Hood removal

musicmanjer

New User
Hi all,

Im a newbie here and need a bit of help.

My wife got her dad's 1948 8N and I've done a lot of work to it to try to get it running like new H20 pump, wires, plugs, carburetor, etc. I went to fill the radiator to start it, and coolant all drained out of it.

I purchased a new radiator for it but cannot figure out how to remove the hood, and the hydraulic pump shaft off the front of the engine is going through the grill, so not sure where to start. It has the bucket attachment so not a lot of access to the hood.

Can the hood be removed without the grill, and how is the hood unbolted ? I assume it comes up and off the tractor?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Happy New Year all :)
 
(quoted from post at 23:50:04 01/01/18)

Can the hood be removed without the grill, and how is the hood unbolted ? I assume it comes up and off the tractor?

yes, it can. whether u can get at the fasteners with your extra stuff attached is another question ;)

the hood is held in place by four bolts thru the dash, and by 2 bolts on each side attaching it to the doglegs. those four dogleg bolts may or may not prove to be a challenge.

once you've got it unbolted (and don't forget to detach the fuel line,) u work it up and out. i've done it twice, and both times, i've found that swearing definitely helps get it clear of the steering wheel and dash ;)
 
:lol: i see we will now have a plague of unintended smilies for the year. note to self: remember to add a blank space between the 8 and the ) when quoting :idea:
 

I removed the hood on my 8N once. It also has a FEL on it. Mine has the front mounted pump like yours. It's not that bad of a job.

Drain the gas to get rid of the weight. Two people lifting that hood off is highly recommended. Especially with that FEL on it. It's not light. One more thing I highly recommend, since you have the hood off and things are easy to get at, replace your fan belt.

If you don't and sometime later your belt goes bad you'll wish you had replaced it then.
 
When you remove the lower bolt on each front dog leg the grill will not be married to the hood anymore you can just let it hang on the front pump driveshaft. I would remove the steering wheel but that may be a challenge once you defeat the steering wheel its a snap to get off... It needs to come off once a year anyways so you can poor some lube down the tube to lube the upper bearing...
 
Wow, thank you all so much for the input.

So if I am hearing correctly, I need to unbolt the bolts for the doglegs on the front of the hood, unbolt from the dash, remove the fuel line, possibly remove the steering wheel (not sure it has ever been off, but who knows I'll try) then, get another body to help lift it off, using select foul words while doing so, then hopefully it will be off leaving the grill in place hanging slightly off.

I read somewhere I may need new rubber mounts for the radiator or it may rub and begin to leak?? Yes, fan belt will be replaced.

Now, I have read in some posts that a 8N with a loader is nearly impossible to steer and I will need weight on the PTO to keep traction on rear wheels???? I have yet to use this old girl, so not sure what to expect.

Happy New Year!
 
You can remove the hood and doglegs without the grill.
There are four bolts through the dash and one in each dogleg at the bottom.
Once the bottom of the doglegs are free, they will flex out, releasing the grill.
That way it would keep you from having to remove the four dogleg
to hood mounting bolts that may be harder to get to with the loader.

The hood clears the steering wheel easier on an 8N than it does on a 9N/2N.
If its really an 8N, I'd try without removing it first.

Gas line still has to be disconnected and a helper is much appreciated.

There are rubber bushings between the radiator and the mount.

Along with the fan belt, hoses and a new thermostat are in order.
Weight would go on the three point hitch, not the PTO.
 

Ok great. Looks like I have a plan then. I'll try this coming weekend. I'll shoot some PB Blaster on those bolts this week so hopefully they will come off a bit easier.

BTW, I meant TPH, not PTO. Sorry!

Oh, 60/40 coolant mix? And the thermostat is in the housing for the upper radiator hose?

I work on Toyota Priuses. I'm sure this can't be that hard!!!

Thanks again!!
 
(quoted from post at 21:54:48 01/02/18)
Ok great. Looks like I have a plan then. I'll try this coming weekend. I'll shoot some PB Blaster on those bolts this week so hopefully they will come off a bit easier.

BTW, I meant TPH, not PTO. Sorry!

Oh, 60/40 coolant mix? And the thermostat is in the housing for the upper radiator hose?

I work on Toyota Priuses. I'm sure this can't be that hard!!!

Thanks again!!

As I said my 8N has a loader on it. I did not remove the steering wheel. I can't really remember if the steering wheel gave us any problems but I did have another guy helping me lift the hood.

Might make the job a little easier though. If you have a puller that will do the job. I'd soak the heck out of it with PB blaster for a couple days prior if you want to remove that wheel.
 
Welcome to the family!

It seems you have not driven the tractor and you may wish to consider permanently remove the loader as N's do not make a good loader platform due to hard, manual steering, weak front axle pivot, difficulty getting on/of the tractor, access for routine maintenance, etc...

[b:6ab0ef252e]Oh, 60/40 coolant mix? And the thermostat is in the housing for the upper radiator hose?[/b:6ab0ef252e]

Not sure where you're located but 50/50 is good to -30 degrees.

Thermostat goes in the upper radiator hose. Pointy end (sensor goes toward the block. Purpose of tywraps in photo are to keep the thermostat from traveling up the radiator hose.

mvphoto8561.jpg
 
I use a 50/50 mix here in Michigan.
The thermostat is in the upper radiator hose itself on these.
They're a pretty tight fit, but I still put a hose clamp around
the outside of the hose to keep them from moving.
 
(quoted from post at 10:54:48 01/03/18)
Ok great. Looks like I have a plan then. I'll try this coming weekend. I'll shoot some PB Blaster on those bolts this week so hopefully they will come off a bit easier.

BTW, I meant TPH, not PTO. Sorry!

Oh, 60/40 coolant mix? And the thermostat is in the housing for the upper radiator hose?

I work on Toyota Priuses. I'm sure this can't be that hard!!!

Thanks again!!

I don't fudge with a Priuse Don't even care for the folks that drive one so will leave all that gravy for you. This conversion may be right for you... There is also a post on a N someone will post it I am sure. You may as well put EI on it are do anything to make it better while you are fudgen with your money trap.


http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1305171&highlight=wheel

If I were to remove the hood the steering wheel is coming off the job just goes so much easier it needs to come off anyways from time to time. I made a puller :wink: and I have seen a few good post on ways to get the wheel off by some conversion of a puller. Its not EZ the first time but the nexy time it is.

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.com/viewtopic.php?t=1147718&highlight=wheel

Thermo goes in the top radiator hose a OEM 160 is all you need some bump it up to a 180 it makes them feel good I spose... BTW a temp gauge is a nice addition..

http://forums.yesterdaystractors.co...postorder=asc&highlight=rock&start=15
 
Since you have never driven that tractor, I would not even think of removing the loader. Get it up and running and use it for a while. If you want to remove the loader then, go ahead.

I've had my 8N with a good Davis loader on it for around 12 years now and it's had plenty of hard use maintaining my 5 acres and the dirt roads leading up to it. An FEL is a good thing to have.

About a year or so ago, I got a MF202 Workbull with a loader on it. I still can't bring myself to remove the loader on the 8N. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

tractor.jpg
 

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