Any tricks for small exhaust leak 2N

allenlane

Member
My #4 cylinder looks like rust was eating for a while small portion of the block has pretty back pock marks. I've taken the old manifold off and buffed up the connecting surfaces and it's not a flat surface. New gaskets are on the way. Do you guys have any tricks to try and stop that small leak?
 
Alan, I glued a 3' strip of 80 grit sandpaper onto a counter top and sanded mine flat all the way around. It had warped some plus the eroded area around the number 4 cylinder exhaust. It really did not take long to have it flat and shiny all over.
 
Allenlane,Have it planed at a machine shop or use a belt sander works good for me,or like Copperhead said sand paper on a flat surface.Just be sure to get it flat.
 
Thoroughly clean the block and fill divots with Permatex 84333 High Temp Epoxy.

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Sand smooth & install the manifold.
 
Simple solution -invest in a new manifold. Why go through all the hassle of removing the old one only to apply a, maybe, temporary fix/band-aid on the problem? If I pulled my manifold off, I certainly don't want to have to do it agin in a month or two or three. I'm saying: DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME -one of Dr. Demming's laws of manufacturing. I can understand being on a budget and all, but I just don't see going thru all that and then having it work, maybe, and only for a short period. The Ford 9N, 2N, and 8N exhaust manifold will wear/burn a track near #4 port because it is right there at the exhaust pipe connection where it gets hottest. I've never seen one that could be 'fixed' with a little sanding down. The groove/track worn is usually too deep to do any machining on. Surface "X", the mounting surface to the block, has to be square to the world to surface "Y", the carb intake mounting surface. Milling or sanding down -who you going to trust to keep that squareness? Too much material removal and now the distance the manifold sets out changes and could affect the air intake and carb linkage positionings. Some fellas then think by adding a half dozen paper gaskets fixes the problem too, and it might, but then it too is only short term fix. All I'm saying is, why bother with all that and not just invest in a new manifold, new brass nuts and be done with it for another 5 years or so. It reminds me of my teen years when the exhaust pipe rusted out a hole in it and we took soup cans and patched them up.

Tim Daley(MI)
 

Tim, I would surely do that if most of the problem was with the manifold. The biggest problem is the block. It is not a huge leak so for now I think I'll try one of the fixes above to kick the can down the road a bit.

Have any of you guys had success with a machine shop adding metal to your block and planing it down? Sounds expensive to me.
 
Have any of you guys had success with a machine shop adding metal to your block and planing it down? Sounds expensive to me.

The process is called stitching but its main purpose is crack repair or stripped bolt holes.

I do not think this would apply to your situation. I repaired my 1950 8N with the epoxy listed in my first response. That was over 10 years ago and it's still problem free.
 

Thanks Bill. I was looking at the temp specs. No idea how accurate it is , but my digital thermometer was showing about 550 deg far on the manifold, not the block so looks like we are pretty close to max. I would be happy if I could get 10 yrs out of it.
 

Thanks Bill. I was looking at the temp specs. No idea how accurate it is , but my digital thermometer was showing about 550 deg far on the manifold, not the block so looks like we are pretty close to max. I would be happy if I could get 10 yrs out of it.
 

The exhaust pipe mount on my 8N snapped off and I had noticed the typical #4 cyl. leak so a chance to fix two things at once. When I got the manifold off I found the leak was caused by a crack across the end. But luckily it was leaking between the gasket and the manifold and the block is untouched. Dodged the block repair bullet!
 

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