How adjust the linkage for Governor

I put new governor (new to me) on tractor.

I'm trying to understand the adjustment on page 42 of the F-04 manual.

It seems like I do not reach max rpm on level ground. If I go up steep hill the tractor maintains same engine speed, which seems good.

I'm not sure which rod to bend to adjust the governor position. Is it the short upper lever coming perpendicular off the long upper linkage (connects to hand throttle)?

Thanks ahead of time for help.
 
do not bend rods to correct your problem. there should be a high speed stop bolt on the main arm back it out to get more rpms. that assuming that the throttle arm on the gov was adjusted right. most of the new ones sold aftermarket are not adjusted correctly, I have yet to get one in that was on the money.
 
How can you tell if the throttle arm on the governor is adjusted correctly and what is done if it needs adjusting?
 
that is what the jig is used for. with it held to WOT you measure from the flat mounting surface to the front side of the ball on the throttle arm. not sure if the I&T manual gives the spec or not. iF generator is out of the way it can be mearured on the tractor with a couple steel rules.
 
it it pictured in the IT manual at the lower right side page I believe, It is used to set the gov up and adjust it. I can post back Mon night if no one else has the spec, I don't know the exact measurement I have the jig and guage. But I will measure it and let you know.
 
If you have a 9N/2N, the IT manual does tell you to bend the tips of the main control shaft that runs across the top of the engine in order to gain full range of throttle control. 8N's have threaded, adjustable linkage. On my 2N, I used a small pry bar and a 2x4 block to bend the tip up by the throttle about 1/4" so my throttle would close all the way. I put the block under the end over the generator and gently bent the other end to get the travel I needed. Of course, disconnect the linkage at both ends first. Forddoc...please post the other measurements because I need to check that on my gov as well once I put the new parts in.
 

Question. Do you know if the governor functioning correctly prior to you getting it? It is a original governor or a after market version?

As Bruce mentioned, you need to verify the internal components are all good to go.
Check the gov balls for any flat spots. Wear on the balls can be Indication that the shims are wore or missing on the shaft. Incorrect clearance of the shims will lead to balls wearing on the gov body which is big problem if not corrected, will lead to total gov failure if not corrected. Proper shim clearance should be checked depending on hours run once or twice a year imo.
If there are signs of wear on the gov balls or the inside of the gov body the shims are NOT now or perhaps previously not in proper condition. The proper clearance of the shim gap is .022" - .023" if my memory is correct.
As shims wear they allow the ball race to open too much which in turn allows the balls to contact the inside of the gov body which should not happen. The slotted plate which the balls sit in can get its tips damaged when balls are bouncing off the inside body as well..
If your governor is an original ford gov I would not bend it.
If it is some after market unit.. good luck

I find the governor to be an amazing piece of engineering actually.. simply amazing. I have spent hours contemplating the design... lol..
 
Was following everything until ‘I would not bend it ‘


(quoted from post at 08:17:41 12/30/17)
Question. Do you know if the governor functioning correctly prior to you getting it? It is a original governor or a after market version?

As Bruce mentioned, you need to verify the internal components are all good to go.
Check the gov balls for any flat spots. Wear on the balls can be Indication that the shims are wore or missing on the shaft. Incorrect clearance of the shims will lead to balls wearing on the gov body which is big problem if not corrected, will lead to total gov failure if not corrected. Proper shim clearance should be checked depending on hours run once or twice a year imo.
If there are signs of wear on the gov balls or the inside of the gov body the shims are NOT now or perhaps previously not in proper condition. The proper clearance of the shim gap is .022" - .023" if my memory is correct.
As shims wear they allow the ball race to open too much which in turn allows the balls to contact the inside of the gov body which should not happen. The slotted plate which the balls sit in can get its tips damaged when balls are bouncing off the inside body as well..
If your governor is an original ford gov I would not bend it.
If it is some after market unit.. good luck

I find the governor to be an amazing piece of engineering actually.. simply amazing. I have spent hours contemplating the design... lol..
 
[b:2e5aa61002]"Proper shim clearance should be checked depending on hours run once or twice a year imo."[/b:2e5aa61002]

i was unaware of a need to inspect the governor's guts annually, or even more often. i'd be interested in hearing opinions from others on this.
 
Pulled the spring and played with bending that for a bit. Missing the governor compensator spring (on order). These adjustment made a lot of difference. For the first time it isn’t stalling when adding throttle. Will pull it another day. Thank you all for your help.
 

Was referring to adjustment of the short arm of the governor, that the short rod that connects the gov to the carb throttle butterfly is connected to.
This gov arm is adjusted by bending with the use of a jig as depicted, with diagrams, in the service manual.
If the governor in question is an oem governor off of a working tractor I would NOT attempt any adjustment of this parameter as it is more than likely already correct or close enough.
A "new" aftermarket " governor is not adjusted (bent) in the correct position. It is not bent at all and is there for out of proper adjustment.. been there, done that...
jmo.
 


It may not be in any service manual. However, logic to me dictates the following.

Fact: the shims on the gov shaft will wear thus increasing the gap ,distance, that the ball race is allowed to open, which at some point will allow the governor balls to begin making contact with the inside of the governor body. The balls will wear a grove on the inside and will eventually wear completely through the governor body. This will create one heck of an oil leak under pressure.. Even with all this going on inside a governor it can still operate well enough to be not noticed until it is too late..

I have witnessed this first hand.

Flat spots on governor balls is a indication that the balls are contacting the inside walls of the body. A lack of the correct amount of shims or worn shims can allow the balls to contact the inside body wall.
The shims can and will wear completely through and I have found the remains of old worn out shims inside the governor.

Removing a gov is a 5 minute process. I would much rather periodically inspect the gov internals that go looking for a replacement governor body and such .. they ain't cheap.
Just have a gasket on hand to replace when reinstalling. They are less than a buck..

Realistically take into account how much you run your tractor.. If you run it very little I would check it once and not worry about for a long time... If you run it a good bit I would check it yearly or in extreme cases semi-yearly at least .

jmo.
 
(quoted from post at 10:17:41 12/30/17)
The proper clearance of the shim gap is .022" - .023" if my memory is correct.
.

Let me correct my earlier statement.. The correct shim gap is
.22" to .23"... which is slightly under a quarter of an inch..
 

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