Ford 600 plugs foul

WayneMo

Member
My 600 Ford fouls the spark plugs early. There is a dry black powdery residue on after only a few start ups after I sand blast them. The #4 cylinder is the worst.
I ran the carb main jet down till it began cutting out but still creates the black sooty residue. I assume it is due to over rich gas but dialing down the main jet does not seem to correct this. All cylinders are affected but it will run on 3 cyls after one quits. The tractor does not smoke and was overhauled a few years back.
Any ideas or experiences?
 
Twist a bit of wire around the ceramic of the spark plug near the top and then attach the spark plug wire to that wire tied to the plug. It will provide a gap for the spark to jump. No more fouled plug.

Don't do it if you have a gas leak.

Zane
 
Too many starts with today's fuel without getting engine up to operating temp has caused similar problems for me. I lean the carbs to almost stumble then I throw to WOT (warm engine) then backoff main jet about 1/8 turn. When I start them, I often let them run for 10 minutes.
 
I am using champion plugs and will likely switch to Autolites next. I do start and run the engine for short periods of time without really getting it warmed up and think that has a lot to do with it too. I will check the air cleaner also, I have not done that for a long time.
Zane's idea is new to me. I don't see how I can wrap a wire around the ceramic part of the plug and attach the plug wire to that wire without it falling off. Also don't see how the plug will fire unless the wrapped wire is very close to the plug terminal. I am sure Zane has done this successfully though.
Thanks to the folks on this board for the help, there are a lot of experts here!
 
The wire that you tie the spark plug wire to the plugs ceremic does not matter. The object it to make a gap between the plug top and the plug wire to make it arc.

Zane
 
(quoted from post at 18:58:35 12/18/17) The wire that you tie the spark plug wire to the plugs ceremic does not matter. The object it to make a gap between the plug top and the plug wire to make it arc.

Zane

Why not not just increase the gap on the plug? would that not do the same thing?
 
Black sooty spark plugs are very common on the tractors around here. They are used only a few minutes a day like loader tractors or cow feeding tractors. Problem is worse if the thermostat is stuck open or removed.
 
About 20 years ago I had that problem with my 860. I change from points to EI and that solved my problem immediately. Maybe it was a fluke, but it worked for me.
 
My 600 Ford fouls the spark plugs early. There is a dry black powdery residue on after only a few start ups. I ran the carb main jet down till it began cutting out but still creates the black sooty residue. The tractor does not smoke and was overhauled a few years back. Any ideas or experiences?

Float level could be too high or needle & seat not fully closing.

[b:5f6a39f445]Carb Adjustment:[/b:5f6a39f445]
Initial setting should be 1½ turn out on the side pointing idle/air adj. screw, and 1½ turns out for the main fuel needle. Start at idle speed (500 RPM) and let the engine warm up to operating temp then, adjust the idle air screw, in to get the highest smooth idle 1/8th turn at a time and listen for highest RPM. After you set the engine running at idle, then you can set the main jet for fuel requirements when running WOT under load.

Keep in mind, the idle jet needle on the M-S TSX carb is an [b:5f6a39f445]air[/b:5f6a39f445] control needle so tuning it in enriches the idle mixture whereas the power jet needle controls [b:5f6a39f445]fuel[/b:5f6a39f445] delivery and turning it in leans the mixture.
 

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