Is there a trick to connecting control valve to forks on 2N

allenlane

Member
1st problem - bent control plunger - got it straight with a torch
2nd problem - water in hydraulic/trans chamber (PO left plunger guide/cover unbolted so rained inside)

All fluid is drained, I don't want to take the lift cover off right now, so through inspection plates see that the control valve is not connected to the bottom of the forks.

1st question - is there a trick to spreading the forks and getting the valve "T" back in the fork?

2nd question - what else should I be looking for from a bent plunger?

Before I realized water was in the system, I actuated the lift and it lifted fine but would not go down with the lever. After I drained the system, after a few seconds something released, more fluid came out, and lift lowered. What does that indicate?

Also, is it normal for the PTO to make a little grinding sound when engaged? I doubt it. PTO runs fine though when engaged.
I snuck a few more questions in there.
 
is there a trick to spreading the forks and getting the valve "T" back in the fork? - what else should I be looking for from a bent plunger? - I actuated the lift and it lifted fine but would not go down with the lever. After I drained the system, after a few seconds something released, more fluid came out, and lift lowered. What does that indicate?

Remove the seat and inspection plates from both sides then you can reach in with both hands. Pull yoke apart (1st pix) and slide it over balls (2nd pix) as indicated with red arrows. It should go one without too much difficulty.

mvphoto7595.jpg


mvphoto7598.jpg


No way to answer your 2nd question without a visual inspection.

Third question - Likely had a bit of trash in the control valve that self cleared.
 
"is it normal for the PTO to make a little grinding sound when engaged?"

I assume you are pushing in the clutch prior to engaging the PTO.

" is there a trick to spreading the forks and getting the valve "T" back in the fork?"

It is not easy but it can be done. I remove both the right and left inspection plates and use both hands to do it. Some here report using
some type of brace to wedge the fork open. The remove the brace after the control valve is in place.
 
Awesome, thanks fellas.

Bill and Hobo, pictures worth a thousand words as they say.

I think I'll just cut a notch in a chain link and weld it to the end of a small bar or 3/4 rebar. Maybe we'll start calling you Archimedes Hobo.
 
I had trouble getting the forks engaged as well. My solution was to put one side on then wrap a rag around the other side out the inspection port and pull that to spread the fork and guide it to engage.

Worked for me but I'm sure there's a lot of smarter guys who have better techniques.
 

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