New light switch

The light switch on my 8N has been bad for several years. I was In TSC the other day and saw a compatible switch. I brought it home and threw it on the bench. Today I was feeling guilty that I had been so lazy I decided to put it on the tractor.

First disconnect the battery, then remove the tool box. The last time the tool box was off was in 1977. Do you know how much junk you can get in that little box in 40 years?

The switch went in well and I can shut the lid on the box. I also now have head lights and a work light.

I also cleaned the posts and cables on the battery and checked the date. It's only 9 years old, and yes I use a float charger.`

It was an easy and good day.
 
A word of caution about the cheap Cheena made parts here. The low budget key switches and light switches using vinyl covered wires will fail in short order. I had a cheap key switch that because the wires were rubbing against the toolbox, eventually wore thru and shorted out. I then sprung for a new, exact-as-original cloth covered wiring switch and never had problems since. The light switch should be mounted on a plate under your voltage regulator under the right side dash. I don't think you need to remove the toolbox to do that. Be sure the switch is fused with at least a 15 AGC fuse and never wire it direct to the key switch.

8N LIGHT SWITCH MOUNTING LOCATION, RH DASH, USING PLATE ON VR;
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Tim Daley(MI)
 

where do u buy light and/or ignition switches with external wires? i don't think i've ever seen one. i bought a light switch from TSC recently as suggested by someone here. it has external terminals, not wires.
 
I think the switch location is different for early and late 8n. The late 8n's I've seen the light switch has always been on the left side of the dash about two inches away from the amp meter. The tool box has to be removed to replace the switch. The front mount 8n's have had the switch on the right side below the dash.
 
Grinderhead........yer weak sister ignition switch is good fer ONLY 5-amps. Yer ignition runs 3-4 amps. Headlites will run close to 5-amps apeace. So doing the math, guess what? yer overloaded yer ignition switch which is NOT very reliable even fer just the ignition coil/points.......electrical Dell......me? After replacing the OEM ignition switch 3-times in one summer just brush hoggin', I gott gryped and went down to a local MARINE parts store and botta WATERPROOF toggle switch. (who needs keys, eh?)
 
Actually vice versa- the early 8N lighting kits came with a template to drill a hole at the 7 O'Clock position from AMMETER to mount the light switch at. Since all lighting kits were dealer available optional accessories, never an OEM factory item on N's, many kits were purchased by farmers and they installed them themselves, often putting the light switch wherever they pleased. Wiring schematics are available in manuals.

Tim Daley(MI)
 
I don't buy anything at TSC as they certainly are not a tractor supply house. They use to be years ago. Nothing but a glorified pet food/hardware store now. I don't even bother with hardware since they never have what I need but if I have to go there, like on a Sunday when everything else is closed, I'll have to pay beau coup bucks for a nut or bolt. Dennis Carpenter is the only licensed by Ford supplier to reproduce many of the original parts on these N's. nnalert sells them as well. His parts are sold by virtually every other Ford Tractor parts supply house but usually with a percentage markup. If I need a part ASAP, I usually will go to STEINER tractor as they are only 35 miles from my house. Otherwise I'll order from Carpenter or nnalert. SEE HERE for new, exact-as-original cloth covered light switch with external wiring. I bought mine in 2003 and it still is on my early '48 8N and works fine.

Tim Daley(MI)
Exact As Original Light Switch
 
Another solution is to get a switch rated for marine applications and route the wires where they are not going to rub. The marine switch really pays off in wet climates of if you lack a house for the ole girls.

Rick
 

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