Where to get the best Carburetor Kit?

allenlane

Member
Guys I did a search as I assumed this a common question but could not find a helpful post. It appears carb kits for my 2N are everywhere. Carb # TSX 241B. Steiners, Stevens, here...heck I even found them on Amazon.

Question - I'm finding a wide price range and wondering if where the best value for the $ is. Are they all coming from China, and therefore no difference in quality? I was out at my local tractor supply today, they didn't have mine, but the ones they did have were branded as tractor supply, but made in Taiwan. I don't have an issue with China products, the issue is to what quality spec's they were manufactured.
 
Your post won't appear on Modern View because you mentioned competing retailers.
The price ranges are close for similar kits in many cases.
The difference is in what parts come in the kits.

YT sells them from what, $12 to $55? But look at what's included.
Some of the parts in the high dollar kit from YT are often not needed.
Like the new choke butterfly.
But, the cheap kits do not include parts that are often worn.
Like the choke and throttle shafts, seal retainers and elbow/screen.
Some times, you get what you pay for.
In the case of the local store you mentioned, they are WAY overpriced.
 
(quoted from post at 22:50:34 12/07/17) Your post won't appear on Modern View because you mentioned competing retailers.

i was very happy to discover that, assuming u realize a post is missing, u can see it in the "topic review" section of the "post a reply" page.

that is, assuming there haven't been too many posts after the missing one. that review only goes back so far.
 
See above post about new parts. There are basic carb kits and major overhaul carb kits. I always get the major kits as they have most all the wear parts needed. That's why prices range from $15 to $50. You need to look at what is all in the kits. Basic kits do not have much I would want. Usual contents are only new gaskets, new float valve and needle, and maybe a new throttle shaft. TISCO sells both basic and major kits but I've seen ones on fleabay that are much more complete, some include almost every new parts including new brass float and venturi, not plastic, as well as the felt packing, jets, main and idle screws and much more, all for less than $50. That is the bargain item to buy. You may not need to use every part in a new kit now but you can begin an inventory of parts for future use. Generally, one needs to only replace the wear parts like main jet screw, idle jet screw, throttle shaft, float needle valve and seat, and felt seals. Most places sell every carb part individually, but for the cost, I prefer the kit and any left over parts go into the spare part drawers. Some parts will be re-used unless damaged. The brass parts; float, venturi, brass fuel inlet elbow, choke plate, and throttle plate will be used again so use care when removing them. What I do: Thoroughly clean the inside of the carb halves prior to replacing with new parts. Carb must be soaked in a good carb cleaning solvent, for several days at least, then the passages cleaned out with fine wire like old guitar strings. Compressed air blasting it real good the final step. DO NOT use drill bits or reamers to 'chase' the passages with. They were designed to operate efficiently as manufactured to a certain hole diameter size. I first spray down the carb with a good universal solvent like mineral spirits before I remove it from t he engine. Use compressed air to blow off majority of crud after. Then, take entire carb, do not split halves or remove any parts yet, and place in a coffee can or similar container, and pour a good solvent over it completely submerging it. Let it soak for at least a day, then using the wife's toothbrush or a brass bristled brush, scrub off the stubborn caked on grease and dirt. Air blast the unit and it is now ready to start removing the parts and split the halves to work on the internal parts. Once all parts are removed, I toss the unit halves into a tumbler first, I have access to one, then media blast them good, then another soak in cleaner solvent, air blast and clean passages then paint and rebuild. Idle mix screws are set to factory initial settings and rarely need to be adjusted far from them once unit is back in operation. Each tractor is different and, depending on how worn engine is, carb may require minor tweaking. I as well as Royse here, will rebuild your carb, my email is open. Here are some photos of some recent carbs I rebuilt...

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Tim Daley(MI)
 
I think all kits are made overseas. couple years ago I asked that question about gauges and was told none were made in the usa anymore.
 
My experience has taught me that the "best" carburetor kits available for vintage Ford tractors are the CNH kits available from CNH dealers. Note: I refer to the genuine CNH kits, not the aftermarket kits also sold by most (all?) CNH dealers.

Yes, they are expensive.

Dean
 
I get nearly all of my new tractor parts from Just-8-N's, Dennis-Carp-enter or Yesterday's Tractor. Never from T-S-C because of their questionable quality and outrageous price mark up. ( T-S-C front coil, $45; YT cost, $15. T-S-C plug wires, $25; YT, $11). But, sometimes you just need that part right now. I use N-A-P-A. And speaking directly to your question, not all kits are equal. Quality aside, some include all the parts you will need and a few you probably don't need, like a float.

However...........

Please understand that rebuilding a carb involves more than replacing parts. A quality kit will cost you $50. Then a gallon of cleaner for $10. Every replaced throttle bushings? That often requires drilling out the carb body.

If you haven't rebuilt carbs before and want it done right, have it rebuilt by someone who knows what they are doing.
75 Tips
 
Based on Dean's advice I purchased the CNH kit for my Zenith carburetor because I only wanted to rebuild it once. I really wanted the parts to fit properly. It was worth the $122 to me. My rebuild was this summer and it runs perfectly now.
Jack
 
Does anyone know why editing is disabled....is that just for newbies?

Tim,
What kind of media do you use for blasting the carb. Guys on my old truck forum get a little crazy when someone suggest blasting a carb due to getting the media in the small nooks and crannies.

Also, I don't want to steal all your trade secrets, but what kind of paint do you use for the carbs?
 
(quoted from post at 22:45:47 12/08/17) Does anyone know why editing is disabled....is that just for newbies

nope. for all of us that use modern view, it has been temporarily disabled for a couple of years :)
 
"Guys on my old truck forum get a little crazy when someone suggest
blasting a carb due to getting the media in the small nooks and crannies."

I've heard that many times, and I won't argue with that point.
It does beg the question of whether they are cleaning all the nooks and crannies
out to begin with though. If they're not, they're not doing it right to begin with.

Soda blasting is easier to clean out, but it still has to be cleaned out.

Then there are the questions of what media to use on which types
of metal. The old cast iron Marvel Scheblers vs, say, a Holley or Carter.

I'd hate to sandblast my Edelbrock. ;)

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Nice looking (SBC ?) Royce. Are you putting that on your N?


Yeah, I reckon I need a kit, I screwed the idle adj. in all the way and she still idles fine.
 
I found it wasn't a bad idea to buy a full kit once in a while back in the day. There were always plenty of left-overs to use on other carbs. gm
 

Hey guys, wanted to close this one out. My kit was $25. The only thing I wished I would have had was an idle needle valve and the packing/bushings for the throttle and choke valves. I'll know on the next one. Tractor started instantly and got a good start at adjusting. She was idling smooth at ~500 rpms. Sure sounds good. Appreciate all the help.

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