I installed a rebuilt carb (probably made overseas) on a Ford 2N. The engine does not run as smooth as I would like. I cannot get any change in the engine when turning the adjustment screw on the side of the carb. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
 
I think you answered your own question:

" I installed a rebuilt carb (probably made overseas)"

If the adjustment screw does not change anything, you have a problem in the carb. While it could be dirt, it could also be a manufacturing defect.

Buying a clone carb is a lot like buying a Lottery Ticket.

Lots of good advice in the archives about carb rebuilds; the best one is authored by Gary & JMOR.
75 Tips
 
(quoted from post at 09:30:40 12/05/17) I installed a rebuilt carb (probably made overseas) on a Ford 2N. The engine does not run as smooth as I would like. I cannot get any change in the engine when turning the adjustment screw on the side of the carb. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
here may be nothing wrong with it. If it is the M/S or one of the M/S clones, then I assume you are turning the idle mixture adjustment screw. If so, then it will do nothing unless the engine speed is very slow. Just a little fast, and the carb is operating off of the idle circuit & on the main power circuit. If 'not running as smooth as you like' means at speed, then the idle adjust is not going to change that.
 
Randy........1st things first; change yer sparkies. (really) All that carbie tweek'ems has FLOODED them. Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025. Don't throw yer old sparkies away, just clean'n'dry 'em one-atta-time in HOT running engine. 2nd thing, check yer sparkie wires. Shuld be limp as a wet noodle. Must be COPPER CORE, not modern carbon string sparkie wire. NOW we kenn talk about yer carbie. ALL carbies haffta be adjusted, even brandy NEW ones. Check float level 1/4". Summ times they cumm off'n their hinges during shipping. Now fer the tweek'ums. Set the down-pointing MAINJET to 2-turns and LEAVITT!!! Adjust the side-pointing IDLEMIX fer FASTEST idle; NOT SMOOTHEST idle. Understand the difference? Shuld be about 1/8-1/4 turn. Unlike the 8N's, yer 2N does NOT have a tacho. Go to an auto parts store and gitt an el-cheapo fer a rice-rocket and runner off'n 9-volt battery. After ya gottchur FASTEST idle, 1/8-turn atta time, adjust the BEHIND the carbie idle SPEED fer ennythang under 500-rpms. I once gott my easy starting 6-volt 52-8N to idle at 375-rpms with a transistorized tacho. It kenn bee dunn. Pay attention to what Bruce and JMOR said.......Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister and carbie-meister
 
(quoted from post at 10:45:58 12/05/17)
(quoted from post at 09:30:40 12/05/17) I installed a rebuilt carb (probably made overseas) on a Ford 2N. The engine does not run as smooth as I would like. I cannot get any change in the engine when turning the adjustment screw on the side of the carb. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
here may be nothing wrong with it. If it is the M/S or one of the M/S clones, then I assume you are turning the idle mixture adjustment screw. If so, then it will do nothing unless the engine speed is very slow. Just a little fast, and the carb is operating off of the idle circuit & on the main power circuit. If 'not running as smooth as you like' means at speed, then the idle adjust is not going to change that.
My first thought was exactly what JMOR posted.
Side of the carb is the idle air adjustment.
Keep in mind that it adjusts air. Turning it in causes a richer
mixture at idle, turning it out is a leaner mixture.
There is a a proper adjustment procedure in the I&T FO-4 manual.

As an aside, if your new carb is one of the new Tisco/TSC gold
colored carbs like this one, the normal rebuild kits don't fit either.

7171.jpg
 
Dell:
I removed the spark plugs (Champion H10C) and installed AutoLite 437. The plugs were all black. The engine has been overhauled. I will work on the carb as you suggested when it gets a little warmer outside. My portable Tach has two wires. Were do I connect them on the engine? Maybe I should remove the carb and check the float level.THANKS
 

Seems like these "new" carbs are hit or miss. But I'll tell you a secret, the old carbs are too! . I just bought a new one (zenith repro) on EBay for 60 bucks and it starts and runs amazingly better than the 75 year old marvel schleber that has probably been rebuilt 4-5 times or more. I just want the damn thing to start and run! And reliably! Snow is coming this week and I don't have time to rebuild something it's 6th or 7th time...


And please all of the lecturers on here spare me the lecture. I have a carb that runs great. And for only 20 more than a rebuild (40 parts only not to mention my time). It runs great, I love it!! The 75 year old original can go in the scrap pile, there are only so many times something can be rebuilt.
 
Tony, if your old one is an original Marvel Schebler,
I'd gladly pay the shipping to save it from the scrap pile.

No lecture, just a believer that if they are rebuilt right, they'll last
another 75 years. Problem is, people install a "kit" and call it a rebuild.
 

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