8N Sitting 20+years

My neighbor has an 8N (1950 from the SN) that has been sitting uncovered in the woods for 20+ years. It has a front end loader so I worked a deal with him that I can use it if I get it operational. Tires are flat and the rubber is starting to peel apart. I figure I'd start with figuring out if it is locked up or not and follow that with a compression test. It is still 6V, but I thought I would use a 12V for the test and just disconnect the regulator and generator so I would have no investment until this test is done. Going to squirt some ATF in the holes first. It does have oil in the crank case. Black, but no water in it. Hopefully I can get past these first few tests and continue to bring it back from the dead. I don't need a total project, so one step at a time. And if I hit a hard stop, then that's how it goes. Early 50, so none of the improvements for that year. Very stock and un-messed with. It does sport a Hupp Dual Drive tranny so that was a nice surprise. Any advice for waking it from the 20yr slumber? I'm new to 8N's so any way to prime the oil pump? On Windsor motors, you can use a drill running CCW to drive the oil pump with the distributor out. Hate to start completely dry on the shell bearings.
 
There is a lot of discussion in the archives about priming the oil pump, and I fully agree that is a huge benefit to the engine bearings. After priming, spin the engine with the starter (with IGNITION OFF) to get oil flow to all bearings. Don't worry about the oil filter possibly being plugged, it is a bypass filter so no oil needs to go through it to get to the critical engine parts.

When an 8N has sat for considerable time, the clutch is frequently rusted tight to the flywheel. Be absolutely SURE that the tranny shift is in NEUTRAL before you try to jump start with 12 V. Usually this does not hurt the starter motor. But do not let it crank for long periods of time as it can overheat.

Don't expect it to start, as the ignition points are usually corroded by moisture over the long period of setting. I do not use ether to test start, but get better results from using spray carb cleaner directly into the throat of the carb.

A lot of these old N's can be brought back to life, so good luck with your adventure.

Paul in MN
 
"any way to prime the oil pump? "

Looking at the timing cover there is one bolt that is larger than the other at about 1 o'clock. 15/16s if memory is good. Remove it and the
pressure relief valve and spring under it. Pump (squirt) a cup of heavy oil in there and replace the valve spring and bolt.
 
MountainGoat The first thing I would check for is a cracked block on the left side below the head, around the welsh plugs and block drain.Some one let it set for some reason.With a loader easy repair would be tough.Bad tires and cost to replace them you might want a sleeping dog to stay asleep and keep piece with your neighbor.If it is not cracked go for it and get it running,many have been brought back from the dead.The easiest place to prime the oil pump is at the oil pressure gauge line with a oil pump can or pump up sprayer with heavy weight oil and a piece of vacuum hose.
 
Thanks Paul. Not expecting it to start. Only trying to ascertain basic engine condition at this point. I need to have a discussion about the tires as well before proceeding, as that cost is probably a show stopper. If it's froze up, then it's absolutely game over. There's plenty around me for sale. Just not any with a front loader, and that's what I need.
 
Thanks Den. It was his dad's and when the farm sold, he brought it to his house. Drove it to where it is parked. Radiator cap is off. Don't know how long that's been that way. I tried to buy it a few years ago, but too much sentimental value. That's how I came to the fix it/use it deal. Sheet metal is very straight. Will definitely look for cracks - after I get some of the other things piled up against it away. Was a bit of effort to just get the SN, lol. Hadn't thought about the clutch. Or the brakes for that matter. One step at a time. If she's not stuck and has decent compression, and we come to an agreement about the wheels, I will do a tune up and a carb rebuild. I might just be buying this tractor one piece at a time...
 
Been sitting outside for 20 yrs. Something will be stuck, engine valves,clutch Or all of the above. take your time and go slow. Don't invest in something that will cost you more than it's worth. Tires are a
big ticket item.

Kirk
 
Also, depending on location it might be important to know how strong the antifreeze is.
With the rad cap off rad might be dry if rain diluted the mix and then every time it froze it split the tubes all the way down.
 
It's a waste of time. The money you spend on it would be better served to get a tractor that already runs and belongs to you. You can buy a nice 601 workmaster for less than the cost of an 8N in my area and twice the tractor to boot.
 
Totally agree with cowdog. I have hauled many of them to the scrapyard after they have set that long, none
were worth spending a dime on.
 
I would be willing to gamble about $25 on
this thing. And that is if the engine
turns over. Part of that would be for a
can of MMO which I would dump down the sp
holes regardless. The rest would be for
gas and rigging up a temporary gas tank.
That tractor sounds like a big money pit
to me. Tires sound shot, you just know the
rods on all the loader cylinders are rusty
after sitting out that long, who knows if
the clutch or the gears or the hydraulics
aren't bad plus whatever it was that made
the tractor get discarded in the first
place.
These little Fords are fun and handy. But
there's oodles of the things out there
that already run and can be bought
cheaply. So it is foolish to try to
resurrect a cast-off like this especially
if you dont even own the thing.
 
As previously mentioned; Run! Run far away from this deal.

- Anything that has sat, unused for 20 years is going to require a LOT to bring it back to life.
- N's are not good loader platforms due to weak front end and lack of power steering. Depending on the type of loader, they can be hard to get on and off of.
- Investing in someone else s tractor is a mine field of things that can go wrong. Not sure what kind of man your neighbor is but his agreeing to the deal makes me question his motives.
- Verbal agreements are binding but difficult to prove and it sounds like you're the only one contributing.
 
Believe me, I'm not going to restore this ride. I have enough to do. Yeah, the cylinders are rusty on the loader. The more I look at it, the more it looks like a restoration. If I had the space, time and if I had a stash of parts, and that's what I was trying to accomplish I would not hesitate, but I have none of that. I spent last night looking at other tractors on craigslist. Found a couple of candidates in the 2-3k range that will need some love, but are not the total unknown this one is currently. I had originally budgeted about 100 bucks to get this going, but that's before I actually looked it over. I will at least assess it's condition and tell him what's going on. Dragging a battery and a compression gauge down there and burning up a half hour doesn't cost anything. It is a good candidate for restoration as the sheet metal is straight and it's complete. I'm not looking for that. I'm looking for a workhorse. My original plan was to rebuild the carb, change the fluids, clean out the tank and maybe replace a hose. This is a long way from getting there. The tires are another show stopper. Thanks for the advice guys. Search continues.
 
Where are you located - not your home
address but what is the closest Craigslist
to you? Also, do you have a way to haul a
tractor and how far would you be willing
to travel for one?
If you are contemplating spending $2-3K on
a tractor I suggest you skip the Ns all
together. You should be able to find
something like a Hundred Series Ford or
even a Thousand Series Ford that will have
Way more features than an N.
If you are patient and don't go
impulsively buy the first tractor you see
you WILL find a deal.
We could help you by pointing out some ads
in your area that look good to us.
I spend a lot of time surfing ads all over
looking for Ford stuff and would be glad
to help you. My thinking is the next best
thing to getting a deal on a tractor
myself is seeing a friend getting a deal
on one.
 
Mountaingoat,

My immediate reaction to your initial post was, "not me!"

The potential time and the brain drain getting it operational will not be the equivalent of "getting to use the tractor and loader."

The only arrangement I would consider is that YOU own the tractor in the end and HE gets to use [b:2f74096f2c]your[/b:2f74096f2c] tractor. Otherwise I wouldn't touch the deal.

Different story with smaller equipment:
I resurrected my neighbors Husquvarna. I keep it tuned up and sharp and in my dry shop and every now and then he uses it a little.
The other day he used it and when he brought HIS saw back to my shop I said, "Thanks for bringing my saw back." He said, "Thanks for letting me use it." :D

T
 
\ MountainGoat, If you are like me you will receive great pleasure in the challenge of getting it started and running. Then and after then; you could look at other possibilities.

Just be patient with soaking the rings with (your choice of fluid) and priming the oil pump and then turning the motor over with out the plugs installed.
You do not have to own it for the challenge of starting it.
Have fun.
 
My neighbor is a good guy. Known him for the past 20 years. Very upstanding. I am going to pass on getting this thing completely back, though I would like to assess it's condition and at least stop any further decay as much as possible. I live around Raleigh NC. I have been looking at the 600/800, and the 2000/4000 series for the past few months. Also Kabotas, Longs, Yanmar, Olivers and Masseys and Case/IH. Seems those have some part supply issues with certain older models. What can I say? I already own two 67 Mustangs and a 69 F350 dump truck, so another Ford on the lot would be amongst friends. There's a couple of good looking 600/800's on the list. I always check the 'include nearby' so that includes East TN, most of Virginia and SC as well as all of NC. I would burn up a weekend retrieving the right machine. Needs to be minimal on the project aspect to keep SWMBO happy. I completely understand anything with age on it is by definition a project. I just can't be splitting it in half the same day I get it. Or the same year for that matter. My first vehicle that I bought was a 53 Chevy pickup so I cut my teeth on bringing things back from the dead in the mid 80's. Oh, and I'm not swayed by pretty paint. SWMBO would like that, but I want it to run great so I can get to work. The work: Doing a mesa project on the back forty (really just an acre) thus the need for a loader and I have been doing a bunch of stone walls so being able to unload a pallet of stone as a unit would be great and well appreciated by my back.
 

What your time is worth is your call it may be worth the fun dunno... I can tell you the best parts tractor I have brought had been sitting to 20 years most of the normal ware parts looked as good as new. A loader beats the ell out of the front end its probably junk. Normally a loader tractor does not see the ware from the engine back you normal see because with a loader that's about all it was used for was loader work... I would figure the loader is junk if the loader is what you are after its not worth your time...
 

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