No power to starter?

kylearzonca · Nov 14, 2017

Hello ladies and gents, first post. I have been searching for many days now, to no success. I just bought a 1947 8N for a bargain. It has been converted to a 12v system.
The push button has been disconnected and is supposed to start off the key.
The starter solenoid is the non-OEM 4 post solenoid. I get power all the way to the coil and ignition switch, solenoid has power going in to it. Power all the way to the Voltmeter. If i jump the battery cable to the starter cable, it will spin it.
I changed the solenoid out, but same thing is happening.
Replaced dingy wires, cleaned up grounding spots, but nothing. If someone happens to know what to check for or how it is supposed to be wired would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, kyle.

flembo · Nov 14, 2017

First off folks here are going to get after you to put the safety switch back in operation. Second you either have a 47 2n or a 48 8n I have a 48 8n that was built in the fall of 47 but it is a 48 8n. A 3 sp. trany would be a 2n and 4 sp. would be 8n. hth. Others will chime in on the wiring.

kylearzonca · Nov 14, 2017

I agree, i do need to put the push button start back on because of the safety switch, not sure how much wiring that would entail.
However, it is a 4-spd trans, i looked up the serial number on the block an it said it was a 47 8n so thats what i went with.

Thanks for the heads up though!
~kyle

R Geiger · Nov 14, 2017

(quoted from post at 13:26:53 11/14/17) I agree, i do need to put the push button start back on because of the safety switch, not sure how much wiring that would entail.
However, it is a 4-spd trans, i looked up the serial number on the block an it said it was a 47 8n so thats what i went with.

Thanks for the heads up though!
~kyle

It would be real simple to go back to the safety button switch, if the switch is good. I would test the push button switch first off. All it does is provide a ground ,so with a Ohm meter, check to see it is works.
all you would need is a Oem 3 terminal SOLENOID and a wire running from small terminal to push botton.
google for 8n wiring diagram.
good luck

JMOR · Nov 14, 2017

As RG said, be sure you get the OEM type solenoid which activates by grounding the one small terminal.

kylearzonca · Nov 14, 2017

It would be real simple to go back to the safety button switch, if the switch is good. I would test the push button switch first off. All it does is provide a ground ,so with a Ohm meter, check to see it is works.
all you would need is a Oem 3 terminal SOLENOID and a wire running from small terminal to push botton.
google for 8n wiring diagram.
good luck[/quote]

I tested it with my multimeter, im getting 0.6 ohms. What number should i be seeing. Or is this minimal amount sufficient. Used the battery as the ground and then the tab with the whole in it on the PB start switch.

kylearzonca · Nov 14, 2017

I do believe it will be more complicated then that. Not only is it a different solenoid, but the key switch has been swapped out for a 4 post key switch as well.

kylearzonca · Nov 14, 2017

The photos attached is how my wiring is set up. its a 4 post key solenoid with most of the wires ran to it.

R Geiger · Nov 14, 2017

(quoted from post at 15:03:15 11/14/17) It would be real simple to go back to the safety button switch, if the switch is good. I would test the push button switch first off. All it does is provide a ground ,so with a Ohm meter, check to see it is works.
all you would need is a Oem 3 terminal SOLENOID and a wire running from small terminal to push botton.
google for 8n wiring diagram.
good luck

I tested it with my multimeter, im getting 0.6 ohms. What number should i be seeing. Or is this minimal amount sufficient. Used the battery as the ground and then the tab with the whole in it on the PB start switch.[/quote]

The push button switch terminal to ground should be zero resistance, direct short to ground. Key switch i would replace with one with two terminals two position on and off to keep things simple. wire like JMOR's diagram, all will be well.

R Geiger · Nov 14, 2017

I would get rid of the resistor in your photo and get an OEM ballast resistor, but may need it in wire going to coil if the coil is a 6 volt coil. even if the coil is a 12 volt one you still need the Oem BALLAST RESISTOR.

kylearzonca · Nov 14, 2017

The OEM ballast resistor, that would be the resistor block in the schematics that he posted correct? Just making sure so I'm not messing anything up

JMOR · Nov 14, 2017

(quoted from post at 14:37:43 11/14/17) Hello ladies and gents, first post. I have been searching for many days now, to no success. I just bought a 1947 8N for a bargain. It has been converted to a 12v system.
The push button has been disconnected and is supposed to start off the key.
The starter solenoid is the non-OEM 4 post solenoid. I get power all the way to the coil and ignition switch, solenoid has power going in to it. Power all the way to the Voltmeter. If i jump the battery cable to the starter cable, it will spin it.
I changed the solenoid out, but same thing is happening.
Replaced dingy wires, cleaned up grounding spots, but nothing. If someone happens to know what to check for or how it is supposed to be wired would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, kyle.

here is more than one type of four post solenoid. I might try jumpering from battery directly to one small terminal and then try the other small terminal.

kylearzonca · Nov 14, 2017

I tried hooking up the i post to a power source, but once i crank it, it won't stop. I have to remove the battery ground or electricity.

Arvin Haslem · Nov 14, 2017

I bought an 8N that wouldn't crank over. It had a 4 post automotive style solenoid on it. The solenoid was installed backwards,
starter side to battery and battery side to starter. I turned it around and hooked it back up. Make sure you get the small wire on the
correct post. "S" if I remember correctly. DO WHAT EVER YOU HAVE TO DO TO FIX THE NEUTRAL START SWITCH BEFORE YOU PUT THE TRACTOR IN
SERVICE. I started my Dad's Ferguson when I was 4 years old. Good thing it wouldn't start in gear. I also started a JD 45 combine when
I was 3. It was in gear. Dad wasn't home at the time. Mom had to run from the house, climb the steps and figure out how to shut it
down before I hit the big cottonwood I was headed for. After that Dad always took the key out. That was the beginning and end of my
combine operating career.

R Geiger · Nov 14, 2017

(quoted from post at 16:50:38 11/14/17)
The OEM ballast resistor, that would be the resistor block in the schematics that he posted correct? Just making sure so I'm not messing anything up

Correct. Ballast resistors change resistance when they get hot. fixed resistors like yours do not. You only use the ballast resistors on tractors with a front mount distributors. later 8ns side mount distributors, only use a terminal strip at that location.

JMOR · Nov 14, 2017

(quoted from post at 20:22:16 11/14/17) I tried hooking up the i post to a power source, but once i crank it, it won't stop. I have to remove the battery ground or electricity.

o you have wires on both the small posts? If yes, try reversing the two.

kylearzonca · Nov 14, 2017

I was thinking that, I'll hop to on that after my lovely day at the VA and let yall know.

DON TX · Nov 15, 2017

I was working on a old fergy that had that ignition setup like that. I found myself in front of the rear tire with that thing started and trying to run over me. Lucky it was at idle and it was in front of an immovable object. It had me wrapped up in the tire and moving forward for a foot or two. I got it turned off but really shaken. It happens so fast. Think about it.
HTH
DON TX

kylearzonca · Nov 15, 2017

I switched the wires around and now it'll stop cranking when i let the key go.
Just took the carb off since it leaks and took the jets out and split it in half, now it's soaking in degreaser along with the sediment bowl which haf no screen on it. Just ordered the gaskets for them and the screen. Hopefully they should be the last things i need to do to get her running.

JMOR · Nov 15, 2017

(quoted from post at 15:53:15 11/15/17)
I switched the wires around and now it'll stop cranking when i let the key go.
Just took the carb off since it leaks and took the jets out and split it in half, now it's soaking in degreaser along with the sediment bowl which haf no screen on it. Just ordered the gaskets for them and the screen. Hopefully they should be the last things i need to do to get her running.

reat!

No power to starter?

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