oil filter housing leak....

Sorry to post this, but I've looked at a few older posts, and I''m not sure they help.
I changed my oil and had the ol' leak out of the filter housing, but not the top bolt. I tightened it to the FO-4 manual specs. My concern is that the filter isn't right (bought from just 8n's) or that the gasket is not right (it''s a round rubber o-ring, not a flat gasket).
I've attached a photo. My other concern is if something clogged the line going out of the housing?! Or else I''ll try not tightening the bolt so much or use the old gasket, unless you tell me the filter is a no go.

Sorry, no photo of the gasket that came with it. It also included 3 thin copper washers, of which I have no idea what they would be for.....

Filter number from the box is: ML1380 from 'Fil filter'

Thanks. Mike
mvphoto5828.gif
 
Do not forget to use a quarter size gasket under the bolt holding the top of the oil filter canister. nnalert?s & CNH have them: p/n 01A6749. I have successfully used plastic & copper washers as well as homemade gaskets. Do not forget to use the 7/8? wrench to snugly tighten the bolt on the top of the canister. (Don't ask!). Most oil filters come w/ the large ring gasket; wet it w/ oil first. Save the old gasket until you check the canister for leaks. The new gaskets are sometimes thinner than the older ones & are prone to leakage. If yours leaks, re-install the old gasket. Put the new gasket into the groove in the filter cover. Make certain that there is not another one already in the groove. If the new gasket will not stay in position stick it in place with a little grease or gasket sealer. Make certain that the filter cover is properly positioned on the canister before tightening the top nut.
75 Tips
 
Thanks. It's definitely not leaking out of the top bolt. And I've torqued the bolt down to 20 ft-lbs, as per the service manual. Maybe this is too much? My main concern is the o-ring that came with it. It's a rounded rubber buna o-ring, not a flat gasket. Maybe I shouldn't use it at all or just righten the top a whole lot less?
 
(quoted from post at 09:43:28 11/09/17) Thanks. It's definitely not leaking out of the top bolt. And I've torqued the bolt down to 20 ft-lbs, as per the service manual. Maybe this is too much? My main concern is the o-ring that came with it. It's a rounded rubber buna o-ring, not a flat gasket. Maybe I shouldn't use it at all or just righten the top a whole lot less?
rong place fro an O-ring. Physical shapes are not right for O-ring. Flat (rectangular cross section) is correct.
 
WHY don't you just get a WIX 51010 (NAPA 1010) filter locally that will have ht correct gasket packed with it?
5010
 
(quoted from post at 08:29:43 11/09/17)
That's my plan right now. I just figured to use the one I bought from a reputed 8N part supplier!

the last one i got had an oring and two different gaskets. I figure the filter is used on several different machines. had problems with leakage and ended up making one.
 

Well, I talked to the guys at just 8n's and they basically claim I tightened it down too much, just hand tighten is what I need and they sell those filters all the time. I just hate when info is conflicting. Why would it be important enough to put a specific torque in the FO-4 manual and then, in the end, it''s not important at all? Anyways, I''m going to get a Napa filter just in case.....
 
make sure all the old gasket cam out of the cover. use a new one there and a new one under the head of the bolt.
 
That's why I converted mine to spin on filter, besides simpler to change it's cheaper too Motorcraft filter at Walmart
is $3.00.
 
I recently put a new filter in my 8N and had the same leaking top experience. (I got the filter from YTMAG).
The rubber gasket that came with the filter was too small diameter and it leaked profusely. I ended up making
a gasket on my lathe with my handy dandy round gasket maker jig (which cost at least 37 cents - email me if
you would like info) out of gasket material and it works great.

Norm
 
Is there a kit to do the conversion or did you do it yourself? I'd be interested in a spin-on!

Thanks

Norm
 
The rubber gasket that goes up under the top cover/lid should be flat, not round first of all. I've never seen a filter with a round one but no surprise today as many parts are slowly deteriorating in quality. nnalert is usually a reliable source so ask Derek why the gasket is now round. I use the FRAM C3P filter most of the time, a BALDWIN if I can find one. It comes with the little ring pull-tab on top to help when it's time to remove. That's how the originals were. The FRAM CP filter is the same thing without the pull-tab. The filters should all come with the FLAT rubber lid gasket. Back around 15 years ago, the filters use to also include the little fibre top gasket/washer that goes under the lid bolt head. This gasket, Ford Part Number 01A-6749, is still available at most CNH dealers, at least last time I checked. I'd double check again and make sure that is not where the leak is coming from too. From my experience, I have tried steel washers, copper washers, and nylon washers there with no success. The only fix was getting this part from CNH and I stocked up on them because you never know when they will disappear. The new filters do not include this washer/gasket any longer -it was deleted, probably a cost-cutting move perpetuated by bean counters with no regard to practical use in the real world. When I do an oil change, the lid and inside of housing are cleaned out real good, often with some mineral spirits as that stuff will not harm the oil or internal engine parts. Mineral spirits is the main ingredient in most all snake-oil products sold like MMO, usually 85% -98%, and is excellent at thinning/cleaning old gunk and crud. Got any Kingsford charcoal lighter fluid around? It is the same thing. Next, I take a dab of clean fresh engine oil and swab the FLAT rubber gasket before installing under the lid. Be sure the lid groove/channel and th housing lip is free of any old gasket material. That too will prevent the lid from seating properly. Set new filter into housing and press down all the way. Try to spin slightly to ensure seating is correct. Place lid bolt with new gaskets installed on top, hand depress the lid first and spin slightly to ensure proper fit. Hand tighten the lid bolt down, then when sure all is right, apply your wrench and don't overtighten. I use a 6-point box wrench. When lid is assembled, next step is to fill with new oil. I only put about 3 quarts in, then start engine, and observe oil pressure gauge comes up and that no oil is leaking from around the housing or lines. Sometimes it is a common mistake to forget to retighten the brass drain plug on the bottom of housing. Hope this helps some, but I'd first get rid of that round rubber lid gasket -that just doesn't sound right. Oh, yeah, and I'm not a believer/supporter of the 'spin-on' filters - don't see the need to re-invent the wheel.


FORD N-SERIES TRACTOR OIL FILTERS:
iCmh9xsl.jpg

N-SERIES TRACTOR OIL FILTER TOP CAP GASKET:
qMpw1G1l.jpg

01A-6749:
XE8eC1hl.jpg


TPD
 
hanks all. I bought a NAPA, but also talked to someone at just 8n's. They claim they sell them everyday and the filter/gasket is fine, just hand tighten. I did this (with a little extra turn with a wrench) and it is OK now. I don''t like the rounded gasket either, but being that it''s working at the moment, I''m going let it be and just keep an eye out on it.
 
I'm interested in the kit also. There are many out there I believe but have not heard back on weather any actually work or just a sales gimmick. thanks
 

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