Ford 9N Ignition

I am having an interesting issue with distributor on Ford 9N.
I've replaced the Distributor Cap, Rotor, Points and Condenser.
When I test without the Distributor Cap on I get a spark across my test spark plug when I turn the rotor shaft clockwise (1,3,4,2) and counter-clockwise (2,4,3,1)... (looking at front of distributor like it was mounted to engine).
However, when I put the Distributor cap on, it will only generate a spark when spun counter-clockwise (2,4,3,1)... I've tested with old cap and old rotor, mixing between old and new and still get the same... sparks when turned 2,4,3,1 and nothing 1,3,4,2...

With the cap on, I've tried rotating back and forth between 4,3,1 and 1,3,4 and it sparks when passing 4,3,1, but nothing when reversing thru 1,3,4.

It is making no sense to me...

What do the bushing and advance weights look like?
75 Tips

I didn't open up the distributor that deep.

The last time the tractor fired and started was when I put on temp full supply and jump started it to back off the trailer from which I had it on to work on it to replace radiator and manifold gasket. It ran out of gas and died before I turned off ignition.

After putting hood back on, I tried to start but never got any fire at the plugs... tested with test light and good ol fingers (not even a tickle). Even tried to pull start it going about 25mph in 3rd gear with no luck.

It is just real strange that without Distributor cap I can get spark turning both directions, but no spark when turned 1,3,4,2 when cap is on.

The first thing you need to check is bushing wear. If the shaft has any sideways movement AT ALL, the bushings must be replaced. (see Note 1, below) Next, if this is the first time you have had the distributor off the tractor, make sure the advance weights are in working order. (See Note 2, below)

If you are using quality points and cannot get the gap to open to .015, chances are you need to replace the bushings. (See Note 2, below)


Note 1: Unscrew the plate hold down screw & remove the C clip to get the plate out. Remove the shaft & weights. The weights should freely move. The tracks should not be wallowed out.

Note 2: There are three ways to replace the bushings in a front distributor:

1. Buy new bushings (part numbers 9N12120 front & 18-12132 rear). Press out the old ones, press in the new ones and ream to fit. CAUTION: do not try this unless you have a press & know how to use it. If you break the base, a new one costs $130. If you bend the tower which holds the front bushing, a new plate will cost you $30.

2. Take the new bushings and distributor to your local machine shop.

3. Send the distributor out for bushing replacement if you do not have a
local machine shop.

Make sure your distributor isn?t worn out; check the wear parts with a micrometer and compare what you have to the factory specs (below).

Factory Specs:

Shaft top .4367 / .4370

Shaft Bottom .8625 / .8630

Cam Flats .789 / .791

Cam Lobes .869 / .871

Base Tang .177 / .178
75 Tips

Firing order on an N is 1-2-4-3 CCW.

Come on fellows! Why on Earth would you even try the CW direction, since when installed, it turns CCW???????????
I can tell you why it acts that way, but there is no need to know since it will not be turning CW when installed.

"it will not be turning CW when installed."

Nor will it be firing 1-3-4-2. Other engines, yes, but not this one.

Firing Order, regardless of whether front mount or angle mount distributor, is CCW -1,2,4,3 as shown. Verify plug wiring is correct and don't just go by color coding -chances are harness is non-original and plug wires unmarked. Continuity check will determine as color doe snot conduct electrons.



Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

(quoted from post at 05:45:00 10/30/17) Firing Order, regardless of whether front mount or angle mount distributor, is CCW -1,2,4,3 as shown. Verify plug wiring is correct and don't just go by color coding -chances are harness is non-original and plug wires unmarked. Continuity check will determine as color doe snot conduct electrons.

<center><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Tbt5WvEl.jpg"></center>


Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

Click to expand...

Thanks... pulled some bad information from the internet (once again trying to go a quick lookup)... I was able to find my Shop Manual (FO-4) and yes it shows firing order as 1-2-4-3 ...
I checked the 'play' in the distributor shaft and have no side to side wobble... it does have about 1/32 - 1/16" movement in and out. I am able to look through the top of the cap down inside and see that the rotor is lining up with the cap contacts within respectable distance as I push/pull the distributor shaft in and out.
One of my co-workers mentioned that if the lobes were worn, that it may cause the points to close or not open at the appropriate point when the rotor tip is passing the spark plug contact and may need to try to adjust the timing or simply replace the shaft...

Its just interesting that before I put the hood back on after replacing the radiator, I was able to start the 9n using a makeshift fuel tank from a soda bottle and jump starting the tractor to back it off the trailer. The tractor ran out of gas and died before I flipped the ignition switch off, thus I suspected burnt points based on "75 Tips"...