Setting timing on Ford 9N distributor

TPants

Member
Hello All,
Having trouble with setting the timing on a Ford 9N. I have read a number of posts and looked at the instructions in the manual. But my points open way after the 1/4" distance from the
mounting hole. And using the adjustment plate does not advance it enough to open up the points at that 1/4" mark. Anyone run into this? Any thoughts?
Thanks,
 
Be sure that when setting/checking, that you are rotating it in the same direction that it run installed. If that isn't the problem, then verify that centrifugal advance mechanism is OK.
 
Can you get the points to open wider than the specified .015? I had one and could barely get them to .015 and had problem you described.

It turned out to be a problem I have run into with several sets of new points, especially the cheapo ones. The tab on the points that rubs on the distributor shaft cam is too short and won't open points far enough. It was a manufacturing defect in the points.

This is not just a Ford problem, I've seen it in other colors too.
 
First, make sure you have no sideways movement in the shaft at all; if you do, the bushings need to be replaced. (see note below)

To set the timing, get a meter or test light, a 21/64? drill bit & a metal straight edge. Put the distributor face down w/ the condenser on the left & the timing plate lock screw on the bottom. Look at the end of the shaft: it has a narrow side & a wide side. Make sure you can tell the difference. Now, place the drill bit in the bottom mounting hole (this will be your reference point for measuring). Next, place a straight edge on the wide side of the tang on the shaft as shown in fig. FO83 in the picture. Rotate the shaft CCW (as viewed from rotor side OR CW as viewed from back/tang side) until the straight edge is ?" beyond the outside edge of the drill bit you stuck in the distributor mounting hole. At this distance, the distributor points should start to open (get your meter/light out now & check). If not, loosen the timing plate lock screw and turn to advance or retard the timing (move the plate down to advance timing, up to retard). Remember, each one of those little hash marks represents about 4? of timing. Keep adjusting until you get the proper ?" setting. (if the plate won?t move, you might need to remove the big C clip to loosen it a bit) As you?re adjusting, eliminate backlash by turning the shaft backwards (CW as viewed from the front) and bring the shaft forward (CCW as viewed from the front) to measure your setting. This ?" setting will get you static timing at top dead center.

After you set the points & timing, do a continuity check before you put the distributor back on the tractor. Do not skip this step! Before you start, make sure your meter/light works.

With the distributor still off the tractor, follow these steps:

1. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other on both sides of the open points. On the side closest to the cam, you should have continuity. Not on the other side! If you do, you will also have continuity everywhere because the points are grounded.

2. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity! Now, rotate the tang on the distributor....as the points open & close, you have continuity (closed) and lose it when they open.

3. Put the coil on the distributor, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other on the cam side of the open points. You should have continuity!

4. Coil on, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity!

And finally, do not forget to remove the distributor on at least an annual basis (more often, depending on use) to check the point gap and re-lube the cam.


Note: There are three ways to replace the bushings in a front distributor:

1. Buy new bushings (part numbers 9N12120 front & 18-12132 rear). Press out the old ones, press in the new ones and ream to fit. CAUTION: do not try this unless you have a press & know how to use it. If you break the base, a new one costs $130. If you bend the tower which holds the front bushing, a new plate will cost you $30.

2. Take the new bushings and distributor to your local machine shop.

3. Send the distributor out for bushing replacement if you do not have a
local machine shop.
75 Tips
 
Funny you should mention that. I was having the same problem in that I could not get the points to stay open to the .015 without having the two tie down screws up (not screwed in all the way). I mentioned it when I was at Napa to a gent behind the counter. We both agreed that the tongue that holds the point is not at a 90 degree angle from the plate like you would expect. So you have points open to .015 and then you screw the plate down and suddenly the gap closes a lot. He suggested that I bend it slightly. He suggested that rather than taking the plate out, to just use a pair of pliers and bend the tongue to 90 degrees. It worked.
 
Yes, I am pretty sure that I am rotating it the right direction, clockwise. About the centrifugal advance mechanism, seems like a good thing to check out but would that actually have an
effect on setting the timing?
 
Thanks for your reply, Bruce. There is no play that I can tell in shaft although I will check again. I followed the instructions in the manual for setting the timing which I think are very similar to your instructions? Is there a way that the tang at the top of the shaft and the cam on the shaft can be adjusted in relation to each other? I suppose I just need to remove the timing plate and look. Just wondering if that could have changed from where it is supposed to be.
 
" Is there a way that the tang at the top of the shaft and the cam on the shaft can be adjusted in relation to each other?
.... but would that actually have an effect on setting the timing?"

Absolutely! That is why I told you to check it. That is what the centrifugal advance mechanism does.......Alter the points cam relative to the offset drive tang.
 
Visuals always help. Long time member TOH (The Old Hokie) makes, or use to make and sell a timing jig that helps setting the front mount timing much faster and easier. When making an adjustment, points are locked down, always turn the shaft a few turns to ensure the backlash has been taken out, don't just backoff and rotate forward again. Are you using a good brand of points like ECHLIN or Blue Streak? Is there a star washer under the point screw?

FORD FRONT MOUNT DISTRIBUTOR TIMING:
OcIturkl.jpg

nM5tfJNl.jpg

TOH FRONT MOUNT TIMING JIG:
lVQqucil.jpg

Tim *PloughNman Daley*(MI)
 
Thanks, Tim, for you post. Visuals are always helpful.
I still could not make the contacts open at the 1/4" mark but I put the distributor on anyway. It started for a short bit then konked out. Half hour later got it started again for a short while. It sounded better than before, with a bit more life. Started to sputter and then it backfired.
Could the backfire be due to the timing?
Also, there seemed to be black oily stuff coming out of the junction of the manifold/exhaust pipe.
If anybody has any ideas or suggestions would like to hear them.
Thanks,
Tom
 

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