Hydraulic repair kits

My neighbor buddy, who also has an 8N, and I want to rebuild our hydraulics this winter. He's got a great shop, tools, and a lot more expertise at this than I have. The plan is to pull the hydraulics and set them side by side on his work bench and work on both simultaneously.

Are we better off buying the "Comprehensive" repair kit and just replace everything? Both tractors have very weak hydraulics.

I told him we should go with the NAA single ring cylinder but I'm not sure we'll want to grind them down to make them fit. Hoping the original type cylinder will not require grinding.

We actually got to know each other ten years ago through YT Forum. He had posted something and I saw our home town. I PM'd him and found out he lives about half a mile down the road. We've been good friends ever since!

It is not the cylinder that is different on the 3 vs 1 ring type, it is the piston.

Thanks, JMOR. Or course. The piston.

Thanks, JMOR. Or course. The piston.

I would hesitate to put an oring piston in a cylinder that has had steel rings in it. it would depend on how gouged up it is.

You wont know till you get into it... I have replaced everything about the pump expecting more I got no more, it amazes me how well a wore out pumps works new are old they both knock under a heavy load. The cylinder and adjustments are the main thang to get right. If it has a scratched up lift cylinder don't expect much of a improvement you can hone it till ell freezes over its still BAD replace it and clean every thing GOOD life will be good... Its a once in a lifetime event enjoy it and do the best job possible..

For the price of pump parts I would invest in a live hydraulic set up myself...

What do you think, or who told you that something needs to be 'ground' down? There's nothing that requires extra grinding EXCEPT, on some newer aftermarket cylinders, for use on 8Ns there has to be a scalloped area at the 7 O? Clock position at the front of cylinder so draft control clears housing. Some new cylinders have it, some don?t ?it depends on where you buy parts from, and it does matter where you buy your parts from. I suggest Dennis Carpenter, nnalert, or STEINERs. There is a complete gasket kit for pump rebuild ?you will want one for each system you are going to work on, no question. In addition, a new safety relief valve, the new NAA-530-A piston and the new NAA-533-A O-RING w/Back-Up Washer/Wiper kit are required. I?d wait before buying parts because you may also need a new cylinder if old one has been using the 3-ring piston. As mentioned, these usually gouge and scar up the ID of the cylinder and just replacing the piston will not stop the oil leaks present. Further, get out your MPC, your I&T F-04 Manual, Operators Manual, and Service Manual as guides. There is also a DVD/VHS DIY out on Ford N-Series Hydraulic Repair. Look at the sponsors here for J&D Productions, tapes sold at Steiners as well as other places too. There may be a U-TOOB video ? ?Wrenching with Rachel? as well. I wrote an article on how to repair the 8N hydraulics on a budget, without removing the pump, and is available for FREE download on the other Ford N-Series Tractor Club site in the HOW-TO?s forum. I?d first do the essential system tests to determine if lift holds a load up, and if not if leaking oil is evident at the cylinder. What is the current condition of oil? Is it a murky brown or clear/honey like shade? If oil is contaminated with water, then it will be murky brown and further investigation is required to determine if the pump is cracked, or water got into the system otherwise. Dropping the pump is not going to hurt anything, and a complete rebuild certainly won?t hurt either. Get the manuals, download a copy of my article, review the video, know what you are going to do before doing it, have the right tools, and get all the new parts at one time once you know what all will be needed. If?N it were me and I did drop the pump for a complete rebuild, I would seriously consider replacing all the parts with new ones. If the pump base isn?t cracked, it can still be used, with only old worn parts being installed. I would definitely replace the cylinder regardless. Since this project is pretty basic, not complicated at all, just time consuming, and if the pump is dropped and rebuilt on a bench, it may as well be done right the first time. You want to be able to get another 30 years or more out the new system and not have to pull it more than once. My email is open if you want more help?

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

I'm pretty sure you meant to say NAA Piston, not cylinder. No extra grinding/modification is needed on the piston nor cylinder bore. As I said in my previous post, todays aftermarket cylinders vary on who made them and where. Some have the clearance scallop cast as was the original 9N-510D cylinders for the 8N and after, some do not. 9N and 2N systems do not require the clearance. I replaced a cylinder on my 8N years ago with a decent 9N cylinder and had to grind the clearance by hand. I used the old 9N cylinder because it was not all galled up in the bore and I had set up a dial bore gauge to check size, roundness, and taper. It was best choice rather than buying a new cylinder and is still in my 8N today. here are some photos of that project, showing the original 9N-510-D cylinder with the scallop cast area and the 9N-510 cylinder without. Then I show my grinding job as well. Also mentioned earlier, and as with any project, never buy parts until you know exactly what you need. Yes, you will need the NAA piston and O-Ring and new gasket kit but until you know if the pump is cracked and condition of cylinder, I'd wait and order parts all at the same time. A new 'comprehensive' kit as you call it costs about $355.00 and does not include new valve chambers, listed at $145 each, but a complete kit is offered at $500 with them included. If your pump housing is cracked, you will need a new one -so then a determination must be made on whether to find a used pump base and work with it or buy a new pump, as Carpenter nor nnalert offers a whole new pump, but STEINERs shows one at $625. Thus, determine condition of units first and then evaluate which avenue to pursue - cost-effectiveness, originality, et al in fixing them. I always try to use the original parts as much a s possible. I do not know of anyone who replaced their entire pump with a new one so can't speak on the quality of those. I do know many new/aftermarket parts made and sold today are nothing but junk with many problems arising from them and end-users -fit/function, and cheap materials/manufacturing are the most common complaints. personally I have these issues with a few aftermarket radiators and water pumps. Years ago when these tractor parts were being made in India and Brazil, there was a bit of a quality problem but they were working on them and eventually fixed them and got it right. Then along came Cheena and took all that manufacturing away and what we are left now with is pure rubbish.

9N-510 HYDRAULIC CYLINDERS:




-Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

I have weak hydraulics on my 9n. Same hydraulic pump. I rebuilt my pump, and no difference. The old man at the tractor shop in town says to
replace the chambers, instead of rebuilding. He says they stopped rebuilding them for the same reason. I just ordered my chamber kits from
yt.

Okay, that's grabbed my interest. I'm not a mechanic and not familiar with the hydraulic chamber. What's it do? And what is involved in overhauling it?

I rebuilt mine this last summer.
Don't order until you et it out and
apart. Pay particular attention to
the cylinder and piston, as well as
the valve chambers. One of my valve
chambers had a very fine crack in
it. I discovered it after soaking it
over nite in solvent. I was blowing
it out with air and the crack
revealed otself. If you have never
done one, it can be intimidating.
But once you get into them they are
pretty dang simple. Just lay it out
and pay attention when you take it
apart. Take pictures with cell phone
if you have to.

The chambers mount on the side of the pump. The PTO shaft drives an offset cam in the pump, that drives pistons, to pump the fluid through
the chambers. There are valves and springs in the chambers that get replaced when you rebuild them. But the chambers themselves are probably
worn, and need replaced also. I have since replaced my chambers, and fixed my problem. I first replaced the cylinder and piston. Then rebuilt
the pump. Then replaced the chambers on the pump. Now everything works. On yt, the chambers empty are about $82.00. The chambers with all the
valves and springs installed already are about $85.00. No-brainer. The casting of the chambers were a little wider than the original, so I
had to use an angle grinder with a sandpaper bit to grind down the casting a bit, so it would fit back up in the tractor. No big deal.

When the new chambers were mounted on the pump, and I tried to fit it back into the bottom of the tractor housing, it was too wide. The rounded outer part of the casting of the chamber seemed more pronounced. So off of that point, I ground off some of the casting. Seems like the 'left' and 'right' chambers were reversed? Maybe the left and right side of the tractor don't correlate to the left and right side of the hydraulic pump? But I got the plugs facing the right way, and everything works now.

Thanks to you, and all the help I've gotten on this website, I was able to do all the repairs myself. Thank you.