Dearborn 3-point lift boom ?

(quoted from post at 12:12:16 10/17/17) Does anybody have any drawings/sketches on how to build the telescoping Dearborn 3-point boom? A friend wants to build one.

Thanx !

Pete

https://www.bing.com/images/search?view=detailV2&ccid=POX2C%2fq7&id=B71E3DD7DDFB987EA3E174E89F89CC94977452C6&thid=OIP.POX2C_q7oco5eXMR9qNm6ADKEs&q=dearborn+3+point+lift+boom&simid=608033986431681168&selectedIndex=1&ajaxhist=0
 
Not what you are looking for but maybe helpful?
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(quoted from post at 10:57:16 10/18/17) This is the one dad made. It is both category 1 and 2.
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I'm liking that one, I built a copy of the old ford type last year, works great but that one looks to be a lot more versatile.
Thanks fer postin it.....
 
A couple of thoughts:
Even a simple boom pole is heavy enough to heft around. Add a bunch of stuff to one and you're not going to enjoy mounting it very much.

Consider adding a remote hydraulic valve to your tractor. Im sure TOH could help you with this.
With a two way valve you can use a hydraulic top link which is VERY handy for just about any 3 point implement and a boom pole especially.
Think about it. Tractorguy2 shows a a good boom pole but with a hyd top link you can control any 3 pount implement.
You can buy a hyd top link but they're expensive.- $250?
I made my own with a $25 hyd cylinder off craigslist and the swivel ends off of a bent screw type top link.
Take a look at the photos. Note how much higher I can raise that disc simply by shortening the top link - at the touch of a lever from the seat.
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(quoted from post at 17:15:45 10/18/17) A couple of thoughts:
Even a simple boom pole is heavy enough to heft around. Add a bunch of stuff to one and you're not going to enjoy mounting it very much.

Consider adding a remote hydraulic valve to your tractor. Im sure TOH could help you with this.
With a two way valve you can use a hydraulic top link which is VERY handy for just about any 3 point implement and a boom pole especially.
Think about it. Tractorguy2 shows a a good boom pole but with a hyd top link you can control any 3 pount implement.
You can buy a hyd top link but they're expensive.- $250?
I made my own with a $25 hyd cylinder off craigslist and the swivel ends off of a bent screw type top link.
Take a look at the photos. Note how much higher I can raise that disc simply by shortening the top link - at the touch of a lever from the seat.
a175611.jpg

a175612.jpg

Hohw much do you figure that disk weights? or rather how much can a boom like your pick up?
 
(quoted from post at 16:15:45 10/18/17) A couple of thoughts:
Even a simple boom pole is heavy enough to heft around. Add a bunch of stuff to one and you're not going to enjoy mounting it very much.

Consider adding a remote hydraulic valve to your tractor. Im sure TOH could help you with this.
With a two way valve you can use a hydraulic top link which is VERY handy for just about any 3 point implement and a boom pole especially.
Think about it. Tractorguy2 shows a a good boom pole but with a hyd top link you can control any 3 pount implement.
You can buy a hyd top link but they're expensive.- $250?
I made my own with a $25 hyd cylinder off craigslist and the swivel ends off of a bent screw type top link.
Take a look at the photos. Note how much higher I can raise that disc simply by shortening the top link - at the touch of a lever from the seat.
a175611.jpg

a175612.jpg

The one Tractor 2 guy posted uses a remote cylinder from what I can see...... :wink:
 
Cant say how much the disc weighs. Maybe 600
lbs?
This is just a cheap King Kutter boom pole
that I bought new at Fleet Farm. It is a
great tool that will lift way more than
you'd think.
I know some of you don't like me posting
this Blue stuff but...
This mower was so heavy that this tractor
couldn't lift it. I did manage to get it off
the trailer and skid it across the yard.
I see folks here wanting to build a heavy
duty boom pole. But even this cheap KK will
lift way more than an N, Jube or Hundred
could ever lift so why add all the extra
weight?
I no longer have either this tractor or
mower.
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You are correct.
The difference is that his cylinder is on
the boom pole which allows him to raise and
lower his boom. A hydraulic top link allows
you to adjust Any and All of your 3 point
implements from the seat.
 
Not much weight on the front end of a little Ford. Dad's Ford is a 1962 4000 row crop. I can't tell you how much the Ford will lift without the front wheels going up. I have picked up a Case two row lister and removed an upright freeze from a storm celler and lifted the freezer up and over the side of my pickup.

Dad's boom hitch is both cat one and two because we also use the boom on a Farmall 706. The 706 I moved a 500 gal fuel barrel that was just under half full.

I don't know what the boom weighs. The square tube is four inch with 3/8 wall. When dad builds something it heavy duty!

When I take it off I set it on three R&R ties. It is easier to take off and put on than my 3pt post hole digger.
 
(quoted from post at 03:29:20 10/19/17) You are correct.
The difference is that his cylinder is on
the boom pole which allows him to raise and
lower his boom. A hydraulic top link allows
you to adjust Any and All of your 3 point
implements from the seat.

Both have their respective advantages of course..... :wink:
 

Let's talk about this.
I think the advantages to using a hydraulic
top link are that it will do everything his
boom pole does Plus it will work on all your
other implements besides.
You can use a standard boom pole which is
cheap and a lot less work to build.
The lifting ability of both poles is
predominantly limited by the lift capacity
of the tractor and to a lesser extent by the
strength of the pole.
I could see an advantage to his if he put
feet or outriggers on it. That would allow
you to lift more weight without the front
end rearing. But then you couldn't transport
the load anywhere unless... you added tag
wheels to it. But now we're into this far
more than a simple, off the shelf boom pole
and hyd top link.
I am not in any way deprecating Tractorguy's
boom pole. I was a welder/fabricator in a
former life and think it is well and nicely
done. But i don't think it was the most bang
you can get for your buck - or labor.
He does say it is suitable for both cat 1
or cat 2.
But I still think a cat 2 tractor with cat 2
boom pole and top link will still outperform
his unit when you remember you can also use
the hyd top link on every other implement
you own

If you or anyone disagrees with my thinking
here I am willing to learn.

PS,
For what it's worth the tractor I showed
with the wheels off the ground is a cat 1-2
4000, with 200 lbs of weights on the front.
And it's hard to see the chain but most of
the weight I'm lifting is tied about 2' down
from the end of the boom pole. The second
chain that is hooked on the end is just to
balance the load. I really maxed that baby
out.
I'm not recommending you do this with a
cheap cat 1 KK boom pole but I did do it and
it didn't hurt the pole.
They are pretty tough and a lot of bang for
your buck.
 

I wasn't cutting either version, being a retired machinist , welder, millwright I can, and was appreciating both styles.
I built mine after the old style and love the KISS principle of its design, that being said my ol' 8n doesn't have hydraulic top link or remote capability at this time, but I have been perusing the modifications posted in the archives here and on Kevin La Rue's site............... 8)
 
U guys can whizz about your various toy boom poles until the chickens come to roost, but just skip it and get a good FEL that will lift multiples of those weights without breaking a sweat. Whose boom pole will pick up a complete toyota sedan? Step right up!
 
I think adding remote hyd capability to your
tractor is a worthy pursuit.
Maybe start another thread about it and see
what others have done.
A hydraulic top link is a great feature that
you would use a lot.
Some features aren't worth adding to an N as
they just arent cost effective. You end up
with more $ in the add ons than the tractor
is worth or you have to chop and cobble the
tractor so badly to do it. But some features
are worth considering. Live hyds is one I
think is a worthy endeavor and adding live
hyds would make it easy to add a remote.
There are kits out there you can buy but I
know a guy with your background could rig up
a pump, lines and valve pretty easily and
for not a big chunk of dough either.
Then just build the top link.
Aside from the guys who just want to restore
one, getting the most out of what you have
is what it's all about and an N is very
capable of supporting these add ons.
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Point well made Jmor.
Except...
If I only had one tractor like many people
here I sure wouldn't want a loader on it.
Maybe if most if your tasks required a
loader that would be different.
But you know as well as anyone here what a
clunky behemoth a loader makes out of an
otherwise nimble tractor.
So many guys here use their tractors for
mowing, plowing, etc and such a hindrance a
loader is for those tasks.
If a guy has more than one tractor and
dedicates one for primarily loader work
that's another story. But with just one the
various 3 point tools will get him by pretty
well.
 
(quoted from post at 09:00:56 10/20/17) Point well made Jmor.
Except...
If I only had one tractor like many people
here I sure wouldn't want a loader on it.
Maybe if most if your tasks required a
loader that would be different.
But you know as well as anyone here what a
clunky behemoth a loader makes out of an
otherwise nimble tractor.
So many guys here use their tractors for
mowing, plowing, etc and such a hindrance a
loader is for those tasks.
If a guy has more than one tractor and
dedicates one for primarily loader work
that's another story. But with just one the
various 3 point tools will get him by pretty
well.
don't enjoy changing implements or compromise solutions, so I keep 4 tractors equipped for tasks at hand. Each has its purpose. If just a hobby, then compromise is the bag.
 
We got rid of the cows in 1980. The FEL was never used after that and was traded in 1984 for a 10ft blade for the 4430. All we
did with the loader after the cows left was move it, Mow under it, and put it back. I have never wished I had another loader. I
have dad's 3pt loader bucket. Dad calls it a "poor mans loader." With the bucket on the back of my 706. I can flip a Toyota with
no problem. Can also make a big pile of snow with it, move gravel, or dirt. I have dug holes and buried shingles with the 3pt
bucket.

The pole boom and the bucket serve all my needs and I don't need a dedicated loader tractor that needs tires,batteries, etc.
If dads bucket had the hydraulic top link it would raise higher. But then you gotta have 2 sets of remotes to make it work.

My stepgrandpa had a 3020 with a 46A loader. He bought a bush hog for that tractor. What a pain. I bet that tractor had a 16 to
18 ft turning radius. Trying to mow his farm yard was impossible with the FEL and bush hog on the same tractor. If the loader
wasn't hitting something the bush hog was. It was a pain!

I have a friend named Tom. He had a 9n and a small MM tractor and almost a complete set of Dearborn implements. He traded the
pair for a Farmall 300 with FEL and no 3pt. He had the 300 for ten years and then traded it for a MF 65. Tom told me he though
he used the loader once in ten years. Said a 3pt was a much more useful tool.
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I've got a reversible arse end loader for my 8 and use the pee waddin out of it, one of the handiest implements I have.
Like it so much I'm gonna make a bigger one this winter with a tool rack incorporated fer multi tasking..... :wink:
 
I say, roll with whatever works for YOU and meets your particular needs. Some needs are greater than others and some less.
 
(quoted from post at 11:04:31 10/20/17) I say, roll with whatever works for YOU and meets your particular needs. Some needs are greater than others and some less.

That is exactly how I roll... :wink:
 

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