6v battery charging problem

I have a new 6v battery on a newly wired 8n. Wiring is correct. 6v pos grd.

My problem is that it went dead after several start attempts. So I put charger on it and the charger keeps tripping an internal breaker in the charger, like it's pulling too many amps. Off the battery the charger works fine. I left all the wires on the battery. However, the tractor is on jack stands, no tires.

So could the tractor being on jacks cause the charger to do this. Like causing some weird grounding. Should I just take battery out and try to charge off the tractor.

I hope this is making sense.
 
Should I just take battery out and try to charge off the tractor. Or just disconnect the cables and charge it.You have something shorted causing the charger to kick out
 
I'll try that.

I checked the continuity between both battery terminals to ground and only got continuity between the pos term to ground. So not sure what or how it could be shorted. Just a little confused.
 
Measure the battery voltage if you have a meter . If it reads only 3 or 4 volts your charger may not be able to supply current to charge it without tripping on high current. My old charger does that. I put 12 volt bulb in series to limit current until battery voltage comes up. Is it possible the key was left on and drained the battery after it did not start? Very easy to do. BTDN.
 
Good. 0.13v is nearly unheard of on an in-use battery that someone hasn't tried to charge backwards. Take it & have it tested or try a different battery.
 
Mike........JMOR is correct. 0.13 izza DEAD BAD BATTERY. Yer interal plates are SHORTED. There is NO CURE except a NEW 6-volt battery. Donna let positive (+) ground confuze you. There are some obscure advantages to positive (+) ground and hazz too due with yer sparkies. Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025. ........HTH, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
When tractor ran, what did the ammeter show as far as a charging rate? Anything? I'd be going thru all the wiring, the generator, and the battery, starting there first. Bargain-basement batteries are usually junk -their lifespan is about 2 years max. Invest in a good reliable brand like DEKA or INTERSTATE and leave the wally world junk to the garden tractor crowd. When charging a battery no matter if it is hooked up in a positive ground system is to connect red(+) lead to positive (+) post and black lead (-) to negative post. I always disconnect battery cables if I have to charge on the tractor. Next, get out your I&T F-04 Manual, MPC, and Operator's Manual and systematically go thru ALL the wiring. If you have lights, disconnect them for now to eliminate from the equation. DO NOT just go by wire colors, do a thorough continuity check with your digital Multi-Meter -NO POWER APPLIED. Color coded wires mean nothing especially if the harness has been changed out over the years. Colored wire casings do not conduct electrons. Get a copy of JMOR's Wiring Pictograms as your guide along with aforementioned manuals. You don't mention the generator. What is the status of it? Ditto with the voltage regulator. Is it the original AUTO-LITE unit? You can take your battery, generator, voltage regulator, ammeter, and more to your trusty local starter/alternator shop guy who knows Ford tractors and he can check it all usually for free. Battery must be able to sustain a charge under load and he has the proper instrument to test it and specific gravity as well. While he is testing all the components, go thru the wiring to verify it is correct. I suspect you may have something not wired correctly or a bad generator -not charging, so these are my suggestions on how to proceed. BTW, rubber is an insulator, not a conductor so how does being on jack stands figure into this? It doesn't. Do these tests and report back...

Tim Daley(MI)
 
Tractor has only ran about a min. It's a restored tractor. It was showing +20 on the amp meter when it ran. Battery has been hooked up for a couple months. It turned the engine over fine during those few months. After tractor eventually started , ran for a min and then cut off. Then when I tried to start again the battery was starting to hesitate and then after several tries, went dead.
 
Dell,
Could the battery go this dead just by turning engine over and over. I triple checked the wiring and it is wired correct. Just wondering if something else caused it.
 
Did you:

1. Not see JMOR's reply?

2. Not believe JMOR's reply?

In case you missed it:

" 0.13v is nearly unheard of on an in-use battery that someone hasn't tried to charge backwards. Take it & have it tested or try a different battery. "

Or are you waiting for a few more people to tell you that your battery sleeps with the fishes?
75 Tips
 
Yes I saw it and believed it. But my question was :



Could this happen from normal starting?

So I'm assuming your responce means no. ?
 
Mike.......generally not ...but... to gitt a battery as DEAD as you claim, gotta have plates shorted out.......Dell
 
Battery can fail at any....any time. Just like humans, at birth, the next day, many years later, sleeping, working, or the battery sitting on the shelf. There is no set time or place.
 
(quoted from post at 13:43:50 10/17/17) Now with the battery off the tractor it reads 2.5 volts.
o, connect to charger & measure again 5 minutes later
 
After 15 minutes on the charger the battery now has 6.25 V. After
further checking on the electrical circuit I found that the amp meter is
grounded. Meaning I have continuity between the wire terminals on
the amp meter and the ground of the tractor. I also noticed the other
day when the tractor was running after I cut it off, the amp meter was
reading +20 even after the tractor was off. No wires were on the amp
meter when I did the continuity test.
 
(quoted from post at 15:23:46 10/17/17) After 15 minutes on the charger the battery now has 6.25 V. After
further checking on the electrical circuit I found that the amp meter is
grounded. Meaning I have continuity between the wire terminals on
the amp meter and the ground of the tractor. I also noticed the other
day when the tractor was running after I cut it off, the amp meter was
reading +20 even after the tractor was off. No wires were on the amp
meter when I did the continuity test.
ooking for a short on the tractor without all the wires connected was a wasted exercise. Charge until you have over 7 volts then fix your ammeter problem and try again with installed battery. A short as you described, with a good battery, should have burned some ammeter wires, so there is still a missing puzzle piece somewhere.
 
Got the ammeter straight. Put battery back in after charging it up to 7 volts. Turned engine over a few times and volts went down to 3.5. Then down to .71. Guess I need a new battery
 
(quoted from post at 18:40:00 10/17/17) Got the ammeter straight. Put battery back in after charging it up to 7 volts. Turned engine over a few times and volts went down to 3.5. Then down to .71. Guess I need a new battery
elieve you are correct
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top