Oil pump bearing stud

KirkWest14 · Oct 11, 2017

Good day gentlemen,
When I was getting ready to plastigauge my main bearings the front cap studs came out of the block with the castle nut still
attached. No big deal, checked bearing clearances but when I tried to back them out the big one stripped. Research on the
previous threads shows they are no longer available. I can get grade 8 bolts and I assume I need lock washers too since there is
no hole for the keeper wires? Has anybody else dealt with this before? What was your solution?

Thanks in advance

TheOldHokie · Oct 11, 2017

(quoted from post at 13:55:44 10/11/17) Good day gentlemen,
When I was getting ready to plastigauge my main bearings the front cap studs came out of the block with the castle nut still
attached. No big deal, checked bearing clearances but when I tried to back them out the big one stripped. Research on the
previous threads shows they are no longer available. I can get grade 8 bolts and I assume I need lock washers too since there is
no hole for the keeper wires? Has anybody else dealt with this before? What was your solution?

Thanks in advance

A new stud and drill it or use Loctite 271 (red) thread locker.

TOH

KirkWest14 · Oct 11, 2017

I haven't been able to find one that's 3 3/4" long. Got a source?

TheOldHokie · Oct 11, 2017

(quoted from post at 15:36:32 10/11/17) I haven't been able to find one that's 3 3/4" long. Got a source?

I didn't look too hard but no - the longest I found was 3". So go with cap screws and the thread locker. I would not use spring washers. Might want to consider these and do them all while you are at it. Very modern and sure to drive the next old tractor guy crazy ;-)

TOH

12 point alloy steel cap screws

KirkWest14 · Oct 11, 2017

Thanks HoBo

KirkWest14 · Oct 11, 2017

Thanks Hokie. Hate the spell checker.

TheOldHokie · Oct 11, 2017

(quoted from post at 20:32:02 10/11/17) Thanks HoBo

Not sure if that's a compliment or a diss ;-)

I was just in the shop and I have your stud in a roached block. Stud is good and yours if you want it.

TOH

KirkWest14 · Oct 12, 2017

That would be great. Not that I'm a purest and want to keep it all original, I'm just cheap and this way I'll only have to replace
the one. How do I get a hold of you? Just curious, what would have caused the wear on the stripped stud? Cant imagine it was
loos at some point.

Thanks

TheOldHokie · Oct 12, 2017

(quoted from post at 09:05:53 10/12/17) That would be great. Not that I'm a purest and want to keep it all original, I'm just cheap and this way I'll only have to replace
the one. How do I get a hold of you? Just curious, what would have caused the wear on the stripped stud? Cant imagine it was
loos at some point.

Thanks

Send me your address and I'll put it in the mail:

[email protected]

Corrosion and/or a ham handed PO would be my guess on the stripped thread problem.

TOH

Jock(OR) · Oct 12, 2017

I have found that Caterpillar bolts are very strong and also machine like butter! I scrounge them from mechanics and truck shops, but the black oxide coated ones are cheap enough from Cat to buy new when I don't have one in stock that will work.

I make studs, special bolts, pins, and shafts from them all the time.

For a stud like this application, I would use a NF bolt and cut the coarse threads a little large on the lathe. I have a fixture for drilling the cross-hole that is sold by aircraft supply houses.

Oil pump bearing stud

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