1952 Ford 8 N Rebuild

nicko-31

Member
I'm in the process of rebuilding my 8N and I would like to know if it's possible to purchase clutch assembly, bearings,pistin rings, valves,all associated internal part's that are"NOT" Cheap Chinese crap ? I am going to purchase a new radiator and water pump of unknown origon but only because I can repair or replace those items with out bringing the tractor home. I will also be installing a 12 volt conversation that will probably need a complete wiring harness due to the fact that I want to make all the lights work as they should.Thanks
 
I have rebuilt several tractor engines and doubt if any of the parts were made in the US. Buy from a reliable vendor such as YT or Just 8Ns.
 
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(quoted from post at 07:36:21 07/30/17) If you are doing a rebuild why would you
leave the flywheel on it when you bolted it
onto the engine stand?
Just curious.
Funny you should ask, my text didn't appear. I posted the pictures asking how to mount the engine on the stand because of the Bell housing in the way. Can I only mount using 3 holes. ? I don't really like that idea .
 
Just put your four adjustable arms on the top half of the block. Don't attach any to the bell housing. And like UD says you need to remove
the flywheel first.
 
I'm ready to take the parts out of the block now and before I proceed I need to know how I can take measurement of the crank bearing and the rod bearing. Would I have to use "Plasti Guage " ? If so I have never used it before. I would have to find some I would imagine. Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 11:21:52 07/31/17) I'm ready to take the parts out of the block now and before I proceed I need to know how I can take measurement of the crank bearing and the rod bearing. Would I have to use "Plasti Guage " ? If so I have never used it before. I would have to find some I would imagine. Thanks
Sorry for the additional questions but how can I get the bottom pulley off of the crankshaft? ?
 
Go to the other N tractor web site. (google N tractor). They have a 'how-to' section and a great tutorial on how to rebuild a N engine. Includes a good many pictures and a section on how to use plastiguage. You can buy the stuff a good autoparts store.
 
(quoted from post at 14:21:52 07/31/17) I'm ready to take the parts out of the block now and before I proceed I need to know how I can take measurement of the crank bearing and the rod bearing. Would I have to use "Plasti Guage " ? If so I have never used it before. I would have to find some I would imagine. Thanks
lastigage is used to measure bearing clearances during assembly. Long before that you need to evaluate the condition of the crankshaft, camshaft, pistons, cylinder bores, and bearing housings. For that you need a 1" to 4" outside micrometer set and some way to accurately measure internal bores. The preferred instrument for taking bore measurements would be a dial bore gauge. Unless you are prepared to invest $300+ on measuring instruments take everything to a machine shop and have them take the needed measurements for you. They will have the instruments and knowledge needed to accurately assess the condition of the old parts. From that data you can determine what machine work is needed and what new parts you re going to need to purchase.

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 16:16:55 08/01/17) Found it !! :oops: can you tell I have never opened up a 4 stroke :lol:

All the more reason to enlist the services of a machine shop. There is a lot more to doing it right than most people think and a few plasti-gage readings aren't even close to telling you what you need to know. Probably why the forum is full of complaints about bad oil pressure on their newly "rebuilt" engine....

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 16:58:18 08/01/17)
(quoted from post at 16:16:55 08/01/17) Found it !! :oops: can you tell I have never opened up a 4 stroke :lol:

All the more reason to enlist the services of a machine shop. There is a lot more to doing it right than most people think and a few plasti-gage readings aren't even close to telling you what you need to know. Probably why the forum is full of complaints about bad oil pressure on their newly "rebuilt" engine....

TOH
Thanks for your reply, I have a friend who is a Machinist I have contacted him. Thanks again. TOH
 
My tractor is I believe a 1952 8N ,I am ordering a complete set of values for it and I need to know if I have "Rotating Valve's " can anyone tell me how to identify the difference ? Thanks
 
The rotating valves have a cup on the stem that contacts the lifter. I overhauled one of mine that had them and I replaced them with normal valves. These days our tractors are not going to be hours at a time working in the field.
 
Priming the oil pump seams to be quite difficult. I've read some recommendations. Does anyone have a special trick that can keep me from causing engine damage ?? Thanks
 
(quoted from post at 16:30:55 09/27/17) Priming the oil pump seams to be quite difficult. I've read some recommendations. Does anyone have a special trick that can keep me from causing engine damage ?? Thanks

why do u think it's quite difficult? it seemed pretty easy to me when i did it.
 
I'm looking at the guage which is new (means nothing because it is either Chinese or India) and I can't get any reading from it at all. I unscrewed the oil pop off in the front and squeezed some oil from a bottle to help It along but still no reading.
 
. Also tractor has not been started because I don't want to cause any damage before I can see guage reading. thanks
 
(quoted from post at 21:58:56 09/27/17) I unscrewed the oil pop off in the front and squeezed some oil from a bottle to help It along but still no reading.

ok, a couple of questions. how much oil is some? i went with a recommendation of 4 or 5 ounces of 90W.

when u squeezed it in, did u make sure to get it thru both holes? the hole with the hex plug, and the hole an inch or so further in that the plunger seats into?
 
(quoted from post at 12:57:42 09/28/17)
I am sure I didn't get the inner tube ,I will do that tonight. Thanks

you're welcome. when u only get the oil thru the outer hole, but not the inner, you're just adding more oil to the oil pan.
 
(quoted from post at 12:17:55 09/28/17)
(quoted from post at 13:32:58 09/28/17)
(quoted from post at 12:51:50 09/28/17) here you go visual:
piPaRTn.jpg

That's a nice lookin' gear ya got there ;-)

TOH
ey, what do ya want?..... Looks about 80% good to me! :)
Okay, I was able to get the engine primed so I started the tractor and It seemed to run around 20 psi, I thought that was a little low. I have 10W -30 synthetic oil In it. I didn't get any odd noises or excessive amount of heat.Shut It down for about half an hour and restarted ,no oil pressure this time and again no noises. Shut it down again and installed old oil guage , same ,no reading at all. Any suggestions. This is a rebuilt oil pump with new parts done by a machinist. thanks
 
Okay,so an update on low oil pressure. I started the engine and shortly (about 10 seconds) pressure came up to 27 psi. Within 10 minutes of running pressure comes down to 10 psi and finally 5 psi. Engine runs better than the last 27 year's we've owned it.No excessive heat ,no excessive vibrations,no skipping engine. Machinist checked crank and piston rods for clearance and both were very good.Rebuilt oil pump and I rebrazed the oil pick up tube due to it being a loose fit into pump housing. I ran I straight for 6 hours without a single issue at all. So now what ??? thanks
 
Well, assuming crankshaft bearing clearances are all as good as machinist said, then I see two likely causes for low oil pressure. 1) worn oil pump, 2) cam/block journals have too great a clearance.
 
I'm now looking for links or part numbers to 12 volt LED drop in replacement for my 8N. I want to just install LED into existing light housing front and rear. thanks for your help.
 

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