8n noise and smoking

It's been a while since I've owned an N series, and posted here... I am a wind turbine technician with a wide range of technical abilities. I recently purchased an 8n at auction. I haven't checked the serial number, but it has a front mount distributor. The oil is almost fresh looking, and all the fluids were at an appropriate level. The tractor supposedly sat for a year, and the key was lost. I got the tractor running, it smoked like crazy as I expected, gray in color. After a couple minutes, the smoke cleared. Oil pressure was at approximately 30 psi. I let it warm proceeded to drive it home. I noticed that it had a light engine noise, I'm assuming a bearing. During the two mile drive, the oil pressure worked its way down towards 10 psi, and had seemed to loose some power. When I got it home, I pulled into the drive and parked it. I had noticed a light cloud behind it on the way home, but it was hardly noticeable. Approximately an hour later, I started it to move it to the garage to get ready to tear into it, and it smoked like crazy and I shut it down. What do you guys suggest? I am planning on lightly working the tractor, its in good shape, so I'm not restoring it as of now. My plans are to change the oil, and look at the old oil for metal residue. I'm going to put a straight 30 weight or straight 40 weight in it. I would like to run both a dry and wet compression test before I do anything to see the condition of the top end. Then I will be dropping the pan and planning on some bearing work.

Thanks,
GBott

Compression test will certainly help.

Dropping the pan is NO simple chore.

Keep us posted.

gbott........based upon yer description, donna use 30wt, use 40wt detergent. Me? I use 20-50wt in ALL my vehicles, including 1976 MGB sportscar, 1969 BMW 2002 with 387K mi, Toyota Solara with 127K, Volkswagon Rabbit diesel pickup, Dodge Cummins Diesel pickup ...and... eazy starting 6-volt 52-8N. Rite now, I'm just finishing my first kuppa K A U P H Y , ittza cup with mustashe guard. I haffa collection of 11, including 1-left handed cup. Tinka bout that, eh? ........time fer a refill, Dell

as long as u don't use the tractor in the cold, straight 30 or 40W will be fine. i have straight 30W in both of mine, and when it starts to get cold, their year is over till spring. until then, they have the luxury of belonging to a guy who doesn't need them to do anything in the winter. in the cold, a multi-viscosity oil like 10W-30 will reduce wear during the time before the engine and oil are fully warmed up.

i don't drink coffee :lol:

(quoted from post at 08:25:27 09/28/17) Compression test will certainly help.

Dropping the pan is NO simple chore.

Keep us posted.

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Thanks a lot, it may be a little while, I'm currently wrenching on a VAC, and my wife says that needs to be out of the shop first! haha

Dell, its been about 8 years since we've talked, how have you been? I appreciate the sarcasm, as always. I may have to look into that coffee cup with the mustache guard!! What brand of oil are you running in the 8n?

GBott

Thanks for the reply, I do plan on running it in the cold. I'll go with a multi-weight oil. She gets pretty cold up here in MI.

GBott

(quoted from post at 14:36:49 09/28/17)
Thanks for the reply, I do plan on running it in the cold. I'll go with a multi-weight oil. She gets pretty cold up here in MI.

GBott

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oh, i know - i'm in michigan too. i just have the luxury of not needing to use my tractors when it's cold. i am happy to be able to give them every winter off

and i'll second what roger said - the oil pan on an N is part of the tractor's frame, and dropping it is a lot more involved than on a car. if you've done it before, u know that - if not, be sure to get tips before u start.

Well, here's a little more background. I have a 1950 8n. The serial number is 8n24929. While looking it over again, I'm not entirely sure that it's a bearing knocking. It seems high up in the motor, but I need to dig into it more when I have more time. There is oil leaking in between the exhaust manifold and head, so I'll need a gasket and manifold. Next, I'll have to figure out the oil. Maybe stuck rings? What's your thoughts? I have a few pictures.

(quoted from post at 22:26:54 09/28/17)
Well, here's a little more background. I have a 1950 8n. The serial number is 8n24929. While looking it over again, I'm not entirely sure that it's a bearing knocking. It seems high up in the motor, but I need to dig into it more when I have more time. There is oil leaking in between the exhaust manifold and head, so I'll need a gasket and manifold. Next, I'll have to figure out the oil. Maybe stuck rings? What's your thoughts? I have a few pictures.

Click to expand...

I was thinking stuck rings and maybe a tappet hanging up. Put some seafoam in the crankcase and run it until the oil looks dirty, then change the oil and run it some more. It may take a while to loosen up the rings, but I think it can be done. That is if stuck rings is the problem.

(quoted from post at 06:20:48 09/29/17)

(quoted from post at 22:26:54 09/28/17)
Well, here's a little more background. I have a 1950 8n. The serial number is 8n24929. While looking it over again, I'm not entirely sure that it's a bearing knocking. It seems high up in the motor, but I need to dig into it more when I have more time. There is oil leaking in between the exhaust manifold and head, so I'll need a gasket and manifold. Next, I'll have to figure out the oil. Maybe stuck rings? What's your thoughts? I have a few pictures.

Click to expand...

I was thinking stuck rings and maybe a tappet hanging up. Put some seafoam in the crankcase and run it until the oil looks dirty, then change the oil and run it some more. It may take a while to loosen up the rings, but I think it can be done. That is if stuck rings is the problem.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I was going to use Marvels. What is your opinion on the difference of that and seafoam? My Grandpa swears up and down by Marvels.

Gbott

(quoted from post at 15:00:28 09/29/17)

(quoted from post at 06:20:48 09/29/17)

(quoted from post at 22:26:54 09/28/17)
Well, here's a little more background. I have a 1950 8n. The serial number is 8n24929. While looking it over again, I'm not entirely sure that it's a bearing knocking. It seems high up in the motor, but I need to dig into it more when I have more time. There is oil leaking in between the exhaust manifold and head, so I'll need a gasket and manifold. Next, I'll have to figure out the oil. Maybe stuck rings? What's your thoughts? I have a few pictures.

Click to expand...

I was thinking stuck rings and maybe a tappet hanging up. Put some seafoam in the crankcase and run it until the oil looks dirty, then change the oil and run it some more. It may take a while to loosen up the rings, but I think it can be done. That is if stuck rings is the problem.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I was going to use Marvels. What is your opinion on the difference of that and seafoam? My Grandpa swears up and down by Marvels.

Gbott

Click to expand...

I'd say your grandpa had never tried seafoam. I'm generally not a mechanic in a can sort of guy, but seamfoam works just like it says on the can. But when using it for something like this a stronger dose, and a little more time, will work better. If I were doing this I would add enough seafoam to the dilution line on the dipstick and let the engine run for a half hour to a hour at half throttle. Keep an eye on the oil pressure while it's running, and dump the oil after it gets dirty, then add fresh oil and filter and see how it runs then. If it seems to have improved put the tractor to work. After that if it doesn't improve you will have to get it in the shop and tear it down.

Put some.MMO or sea foam in the gas and cranckcase
Go out and work it like a rented mule.

Well, I drained the oil to find what appears to be remnants of a sleeve.

(quoted from post at 12:58:15 09/30/17) Well, I drained the oil to find what appears to be remnants of a sleeve.

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between that and your oil pump losing prime, sounds like it is indeed time to drop the oil pan, at the least.