POPGUN

Member
52 8N . Steering is gone and the wheel spins freely allowing the steering shaft to telescopes out. When it telescopes
out the bearing spring is rusted and broke and the bearing looks dry and maybe gone. Tractor has a Wagner loader and
the shaft only comes so far out and the steering wheel stops when it hits the loaders cross member. My question is
how deep do I need to go on the problem. Can it be fixed from the top removing the steering wheel. Is it just a matter of the shaft bearing and spring or does the loader need
to come off and the steering box looked at.
 
I would say the gear box needs to be overhauled, I took mine off the machine when I did it, but then my FEL is not in the way.
At a minimum, the upper bearing needs to be replaced and the gear box has to come apart to replace it. lower bearing is probably gone also,
 
I've never been into an early 8N steering box but the late style box - which you should have - is fundamentaly the same on all the smaller Fords all the way through 1983. I don't know what you'll have to do to get at it with the loader on. But as for the box itself, get your FO-4 out and have at it.
They are very, very simple mechanisms.
 
The manual is straight forward on all R&Rs no right or left, it is only good if there is something wrong which means then I have to take the loader off to follow the manual, right . I need someone who has had the hands on situation which would be what the forums is for. As an example look in your FO-4 Manual on the thermostat replacement and tell me what it shows. I just dont think the manual is my best source till I remove the loader and as much I like to turn a wrench I really dont want to remove the loader. If I remove the loader I will just buy a rebuilt box, I dont have the luxury of time rebuilding my-en. Thanks for your input though.
 
(quoted from post at 15:36:52 09/25/17) The manual is straight forward on all R&Rs no right or left, it is only good if there is something wrong which means then I have to take the loader off to follow the manual, right . I need someone who has had the hands on situation which would be what the forums is for. As an example look in your FO-4 Manual on the thermostat replacement and tell me what it shows. I just dont think the manual is my best source till I remove the loader and as much I like to turn a wrench I really dont want to remove the loader. If I remove the loader I will just buy a rebuilt box, I dont have the luxury of time rebuilding my-en. Thanks for your input though.
You might be better off with a new tractor.
 
I am a go with the sps and bearing I am hoping that will be all I need. The loader takes away the easy and simple. I
did a 2N with no obstacles it was very simple and easy it was my trailer queen so I took the time to do the whole
thing myself. But I really dont want to remove the loader. So it looks as if I will do the spring and bearing and see
what happens. Thanks for your input.
 
This is a work horse not pretty to look at, used but not abused. The loader is a god send, used it for lots of stuff,
snow, move dirt pulling fence posts and more. I bought it 10 yrs ago and it has the smoothest running motor that I
need to put a tach on her to tell if its running, now thats smooth, lol
 

This won't help you but for others that are reading this thread let this guy's frustration be a lesson to do a little maintenence on your tractor before it breaks down. His sector seals Had to be leaking noticeably for a long time and the symptoms of a dry upper bearing likewise had to be evident for a long time in the form of cracking, popping or other noises and a guy can feel those bearings getting dry.
Putting some 90W in on time would likely have made that box function for years yet.
So now he's got a tractor that chit the bed on him and doesn't like the answers he's getting to fix it.
 
Your reply to this member sounds like you are having some bedroom frustration issues, your a bitter little man and seem to take joy in elevating your pitiful existence by injecting such a snotty reply. Putting this member down does little to improve your relations here. I have read some of your passed replies and this is nothing new for you and the way you treat people. Hope you get the professional help you need. No Offence but why does someone that has never had a breakdown do with a FO-4 manual? <'(((((>{
 
Thank you for your input.
R Geiger offered some helpful advice on what the problem was with his steering.
I tried to offer some encouragement with the info that these steering boxes are simple devices and not difficult to rebuild.
He didn't seem to like our replies.
So R Geiger suggested maybe a new tractor would help and I pointed out the importance of recognizing signs of potential trouble and doing regular maintenance.
Do you have any helpful advice for Popgun or did you just come here to say you're not voting for me for homecoming queen?
 
box will need to come apart, so the loader has got to go.
(depending on the loader and model tractor....sometimes major jobs are possible with it in place.....but since you asked for 'hands on'....believe me, it's always easier to take the loader off first)

Loaders are like loaded tires, or tractor splits....
real scary looking.....until you've done it a few/many times.
As with all big jobs, the first thing is walking around it....looking at this and that.....and hearing that voice inside saying...'I can do this'.....and then....you can.
 
I have just done a steering gear box on the early 8N, replacing it with the aftermarket box from this site. From my experiences, I believe the upper bearing replacement requires the removal of the steering tube from the top of the gear box. To get there, you'll need to remove the hood, dog legs and gas tank assembly, and the dash board, some wiring as necessary, oil line, tach cable, and maybe the battery box and air cleaner. If your steering shaft is coming up, then the broken bearing is just inside the 4 bolt plate at the bottom of the steering tube. The broken rollers and pieces of broken cage of this bearing is now at the bottom of the gear box, but there is no removable plug to get the broken bits out of there. If your loader is the jungle jim Ford loader, then by not removing it prior to this work, you will be extremely hampered in what you can do. Removing the loader is relatively easy. One mounting point on each side of the rear axle where the fenders normally mount, and then a single mount directly beneath the center of the front axle. Deal with the hydraulic pump and lines and then you can usually back away from the loader (leave it all together and support it from a stout tree branch). This was often done as seasonal work required the N to be more nimble without the loader.

Good Luck, and remember: it is not difficult, just a lot of fiddling around, take one piece at a time.

Paul in MN
 

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