2 N Ford Tractor

Garryllk

Member

Hi I have a 2 N ford and the rear axles by the rims are leaking just a little.

Would something like Trans X help ? I really don't want to tear it apart and put new seals in this year.

Minnesota here and Only use it to plow snow and very little else. Had a tube loader completely rebuilt and it now has a 5 ft bucket on it so its a great loader except the right rear wheel comes off the ground when I lift anything,Even with a 5 ft back blade on it.

Also I need to put fluid in one rear tire The other has calcium chloride in it,Thinking Washer fluid But I need a pump for that and haven't found anything that will work I know there are kits for this,but don't know where to get one.

Thank you for any help

Garry
 
Welcome to the forum Garry.
With a loader, I would want more weight than wiper fluid.
And I would want both rear tires weighted the same.

You can get the valve to attach to the tire at any TSC store. ~$10.
A $5 drill pump will work to pump the fluid in/out.
If you use Chloride, any pump that's not plastic will likely rust
after pumping CaCl with it anyway, so cheaper is better.

That's not to say that Chloride is entirely bad. It provides a lot
of weight at an economical price. As long as it doesn't leak and
the operator doesn't ignore said leak, it's not going to rust a
rim with a tube type tire with a good tube in it. If you ever cut
a tire deep enough, any liquid ballast is all gone though.
Cast Iron weights win out on that point for sure.
CaCl has the added benefit of killing the grass and weeds. ;)

I would also want to put some weight back further, like to the
ends of the 3 PT arms. The rear axle then acts as a fulcrum
to take some weight off the front tires and aid in steering.

As far as the rear axle seals go, there's probably no easy fix.
Some of the additives may slow the leak for this season, but
ultimately it will need new seals. Or at least SureSeals.
 

Thank you Royse

Those 5 dollar pumps do work I can use one of those.And you suggest adding c chloride to this wheel also. When I bought the tractor This wheel had a new rim on it So I think that it was leaking and wrecked the old rim,so I thought about adding something else to this rim.

Steering is a prob With dirt in the bucket You go one of two directions Forward or Backward But with snow I need to have the back blade on to,So no extra weights beside that.In the spring and summer I could put a barrel with concrete in it attached to the arms.

This valve you mention is there a special name for it I am next to LaCrosse Wis A Tractor Supply company here said they don't have them. I need new rear tiers but they are Black Gold So I hope the Chains hold them together for a while Even used are so expensive.Good tread but badly weather checked.

I don't know what Sure Seals are ?

Well Thank You again

Garry
 

if you're going to load the tire with washer fluid, i'd advise u to have the other tire drained of chloride and fill it with washer fluid too. the chloride solution is heavier, and as royse said, balance counts.
 
(quoted from post at 17:52:55 09/22/17) Would something like Trans X help ? I really don't want to tear it apart and put new seals in this year.
As said, the only real solution for leaking axle seals is to replace them. On 9N /2N type axles I put both OEM seals & Sure Seals. just grease your wheel bearings good.

Had a tube loader completely rebuilt and it now has a 5 ft bucket on it so its a great loader except the right rear wheel comes off the ground when I lift anything,Even with a 5 ft back blade on it.
With a loader on these tractors you need more weight on the rear. When you think you have enough, add more. When plowing snow you need traction. Weight = traction. Chains help also, but first yo need weight. A five foot bucket on one of these is really too big (adds too much weight to the front). Maybe you can find a lighter weight small blade and fabricate it onto the loader arms. Every little bit of weight matters. Less on the front, more on the rear.

As Royse said if you can add weight further back even better. If you need the blade for snow removal, add weight to the top of the blade. Otherwise make up a heavy counter weight. More rear weight will also do wonders for your steering.

Weight your rear tires evenly, otherwise, the lighter one will always be slipping
 
[b:d775263a89]Here's[/b:d775263a89] a link to one on Amazon, TSC carries the same one I think.
In our TSC stores they're hanging on the wall with the valve cores and tire gauges.
 
(quoted from post at 11:13:57 09/23/17) [b:51f47ca8d5]Here's[/b:51f47ca8d5] a link to one on Amazon, TSC carries the same one I think.
In our TSC stores they're hanging on the wall with the valve cores and tire gauges.

In my TSC store, that is WAY back in the far left corner of the store. One may look all day in the store and not find it there.
 
(quoted from post at 14:22:45 09/23/17)
(quoted from post at 11:13:57 09/23/17) [b:0eb6d228e4]Here's[/b:0eb6d228e4] a link to one on Amazon, TSC carries the same one I think.
In our TSC stores they're hanging on the wall with the valve cores and tire gauges.

In my TSC store, that is WAY back in the far left corner of the store. One may look all day in the store and not find it there.
Same here. The tire stuff is all in that corner, just to the left of the batteries and cables.
 

Hi

Thank you all for your help and for that link

I just noticed it now leaking around the pto to Geeees, So Can anyone tell me how big a job it will be to replace all the seals?Do you need to pull the drive axles

And are there pins or clips in the pumpkin holding them ?

I may need to buy 50 gal of trans/hydrolick fluid to make it through the winter

Thank you all again

Garry
 
If all goes well, you pull the four bolts surrounding the PTO shaft
and slide it out. If you want to update to the 1 3/8 inch standard
PTO shaft, now would be a good time. Complete shaft, new seals,
new bearing on YT is [b:4752918d10]$83[/b:4752918d10]
Clean the gasket surface, slide the new one in with new gasket
and put the four bolts back in.

Of course you should drain the oil first. There are three drains.
One in the differential, one in the hydraulics, one in the trans.
I drain them in that order. Makes less of a mess.
It will hold approximately 5 gallons of oil. I use UTF that meets
Ford spec M2C134D. TSC sells it, Walmart, etc. $35 or so.
 


Thank you

That at least doesn't seem to bad. Is there any chance The axles are as easy ? Just hoping they are
 
"Is there any chance The axles are as easy ?"

In a word? No.
They're not hard to take out, but the seals are not that easy.
Hobo has pictures posted of his press and jig he made to do them.
 
I used sure seals in my 9n in 2006 no trouble so far. They work well. First you pack the bearing with as much grease as you can get in it. Then the sure seal slides over the bearing and collar. Any of the online parts places have sure seals.
 

I want to thank everyone for their information,It's been very helpful and I even found a place to get the used antifreeze I need for free (Big savings)

This is a great place and so helpful.

I plan on getting by till spring to do both axles and the pto.It has a clutch on it So don't know what size shaft it has. It still works good for snow because the back blade is very heavy and I have very aggressive chains on it also.

I am sure I will have more questions in the futher.

Thank you all again

Garry
 

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