8N won't return to idle

Gary Mitchell

Well-known Member
Hank starts immediately and runs smooth at a fast idle. After being throttled up it won't idle back down. I was told that it likely needed the governor renewed. I took it out and saw that the balls had flat spots, not to mentioned that it had worn a hole in the case causing an oil leak. I got a good looking used one at the salvage place and installed that. It still does the same thing and I have to reset the rpm's by taking my pliers to the linkage. Am I missing something here? Is there a return spring that I don't have? Thanks, gm
 
(quoted from post at 10:05:34 09/21/17) Hank starts immediately and runs smooth at a fast idle. After being throttled up it won't idle back down. I was told that it likely needed the governor renewed. I took it out and saw that the balls had flat spots, not to mentioned that it had worn a hole in the case causing an oil leak. I got a good looking used one at the salvage place and installed that. It still does the same thing and I have to reset the rpm's by taking my pliers to the linkage. Am I missing something here? Is there a return spring that I don't have? Thanks, gm
Have you tried adjusting the governor spring?
 
(quoted from post at 13:35:26 09/21/17) No but I can look in the 75 tips and see about that?
Sounds like you need a FO-4 service manual. Bruces etips are good but do not cover everything.
 
Did you inspect the inside of the replacement governor?
If you try to operate the governor to carb rod by hand, does the
governor fight your attempts?
How is your throttle response? Fairly linear from low through high?

If your throttle response is fairly linear and it just won't idle all
the way down, say, it will idle down to 6~800 RPM but not down
to 400 until you move it manually, that may be the carb.

I put a lot of different carbs on my tractor every year.
Same Engine, same governor, same linkage, et al. They still
react differently due to throttle rod leakage, seal tension etc.
Then they get to be readjusted until they work right.
May not be your issue here, just a thought.
 
When you spin the gear on the salvage governor, do the arms move like they should? (quick junkyard test)
Probably not your problem on a N, but as a reminder, [i:adac1c13c5]nothing[/i:adac1c13c5] can be allowed to touch/rub on the rod from the governor to the carb.

(quoted from post at 23:52:50 09/21/17) Did you inspect the inside of the replacement governor?
If you try to operate the governor to carb rod by hand, does the
governor fight your attempts?
How is your throttle response? Fairly linear from low through high?

If your throttle response is fairly linear and it just won't idle all
the way down, say, it will idle down to 6~800 RPM but not down
to 400 until you move it manually, that [b:adac1c13c5]may be the carb[/b:adac1c13c5].

I put a lot of different carbs on my tractor every year.
Same Engine, same governor, same linkage, et al. They still
react differently due to throttle rod leakage, seal tension etc.
Then they get to be readjusted until they work right.
May not be your issue here, just a thought.

just ran into that myself on a N. Throttle shaft was very sloppy. When opened, the shaft would move in/out slightly and jam up the throttle plate....wouldn't return to idle when rev'd up.
When I pushed the idle adjuster with my finger to get the engine to slow down, I felt the 'catch' and slight sideways movement.
 

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