Something Isn't Right.

L.Fure · Sep 7, 2017

In my attempts to get my 8N to charge I thought I had it whipped. But after running it for some time the battery will go dead, even though the amp. gauge shows 11 amps at an idle, and goes up to about 15amps when the engine is sped up. Here's something I noticed. When I turn the key switch to on the needle on the amp meter will jump up to +10amps, I figure this was because of the points being closed, but I finally realized that it should be -10amps, so all along I've been thinking that the generator had been charging, but it has been discharging. What I need to know is which connection do I cross to polarize the regulator?

JMOR · Sep 7, 2017

(quoted from post at 13:14:29 09/07/17) In my attempts to get my 8N to charge I thought I had it whipped. But after running it for some time the battery will go dead, even though the amp. gauge shows 11 amps at an idle, and goes up to about 15amps when the engine is sped up. Here's something I noticed. When I turn the key switch to on the needle on the amp meter will jump up to +10amps, I figure this was because of the points being closed, but I finally realized that it should be -10amps, so all along I've been thinking that the generator had been charging, but it has been discharging. What I need to know is which connection do I cross to polarize the regulator?

attery to armature

L.Fure · Sep 7, 2017

(quoted from post at 18:22:01 09/07/17)

(quoted from post at 13:14:29 09/07/17) In my attempts to get my 8N to charge I thought I had it whipped. But after running it for some time the battery will go dead, even though the amp. gauge shows 11 amps at an idle, and goes up to about 15amps when the engine is sped up. Here's something I noticed. When I turn the key switch to on the needle on the amp meter will jump up to +10amps, I figure this was because of the points being closed, but I finally realized that it should be -10amps, so all along I've been thinking that the generator had been charging, but it has been discharging. What I need to know is which connection do I cross to polarize the regulator?

Click to expand...

attery to armature

Thanks.

R Geiger · Sep 7, 2017

(quoted from post at 11:14:29 09/07/17) In my attempts to get my 8N to charge I thought I had it whipped. But after running it for some time the battery will go dead, even though the amp. gauge shows 11 amps at an idle, and goes up to about 15amps when the engine is sped up. Here's something I noticed. When I turn the key switch to on the needle on the amp meter will jump up to +10amps, I figure this was because of the points being closed, but I finally realized that it should be -10amps, so all along I've been thinking that the generator had been charging, but it has been discharging. What I need to know is which connection do I cross to polarize the regulator?

Like JMOR says but you really are polarizing the generator not the regulator.

L.Fure · Sep 7, 2017

(quoted from post at 18:48:10 09/07/17)

(quoted from post at 11:14:29 09/07/17) In my attempts to get my 8N to charge I thought I had it whipped. But after running it for some time the battery will go dead, even though the amp. gauge shows 11 amps at an idle, and goes up to about 15amps when the engine is sped up. Here's something I noticed. When I turn the key switch to on the needle on the amp meter will jump up to +10amps, I figure this was because of the points being closed, but I finally realized that it should be -10amps, so all along I've been thinking that the generator had been charging, but it has been discharging. What I need to know is which connection do I cross to polarize the regulator?

Click to expand...

Like JMOR says but you really are polarizing the generator not the regulator.

Thanks for clearing that up for me.

Royse · Sep 7, 2017

Now that you have the polarizing answers, it is a simple swap
of the wires on the back of the ammeter to make it read right.
Assuming it's an aftermarket ammeter.

You can measure the battery voltage across the terminals to
verify it is charging. About 6.4V charged, engine off, about
7.4V running at 1/2 throttle or so after a few minutes.

L.Fure · Sep 7, 2017

(quoted from post at 01:54:12 09/08/17) Now that you have the polarizing answers, it is a simple swap
of the wires on the back of the ammeter to make it read right.
Assuming it's an aftermarket ammeter.

You can measure the battery voltage across the terminals to
verify it is charging. About 6.4V charged, engine off, about
7.4V running at 1/2 throttle or so after a few minutes.

This will have to wait until the new regulator gets here. Thanks to the amp gauge being wired in reverse I thought I had fixed the regulator. Until I figured out why the battery kept going dead. Darn positive ground anyway, it gets me every time. Why these old tractors have positive ground in the first place is beyond me. Can anyone answer that for me?

Royse · Sep 7, 2017

(quoted from post at 21:17:08 09/07/17) Why these old tractors have positive ground in the first place is beyond me. Can anyone answer that for me?

Not in a manner short enough to post on a forum.
They don't have to be positive ground, they'll work either way.
My Case DC is 6V negative ground with a cutout and works fine.

BTW, I hope you ordered three regulators. One of them "might"
be good, at least for a week or so. Some only for an hour.
Faulty regulators are the main reason I switched mine to 12V.

L.Fure · Sep 7, 2017

(quoted from post at 02:29:30 09/08/17)

(quoted from post at 21:17:08 09/07/17) Why these old tractors have positive ground in the first place is beyond me. Can anyone answer that for me?

Click to expand...

Not in a manner short enough to post on a forum.
They don't have to be positive ground, they'll work either way.
My Case DC is 6V negative ground with a cutout and works fine.

BTW, I hope you ordered three regulators. One of them "might"
be good, at least for a week or so. Some only for an hour.
Faulty regulators are the main reason I switched mine to 12V.

That doesn't sound very encouraging. They charge three times what they used to cost, and they are no good to boot.

Royse · Sep 7, 2017

(quoted from post at 21:56:38 09/07/17)

(quoted from post at 02:29:30 09/08/17)

(quoted from post at 21:17:08 09/07/17) Why these old tractors have positive ground in the first place is beyond me. Can anyone answer that for me?

Click to expand...

Not in a manner short enough to post on a forum.
They don't have to be positive ground, they'll work either way.
My Case DC is 6V negative ground with a cutout and works fine.

BTW, I hope you ordered three regulators. One of them "might"
be good, at least for a week or so. Some only for an hour.
Faulty regulators are the main reason I switched mine to 12V.

Click to expand...

That doesn't sound very encouraging. They charge three times what they used to cost, and they are no good to boot.

Not to mention its an "electrical part", so in most cases, non-returnable once installed.

Dell (WA) · Sep 7, 2017

Fure........there is an obscure advantage to positive (+) ground fer yer sparkies. Electrons (-) are attracted to positive (+) potential. That is the reason fer positive (+) ground. 2017 sparkies are so much better than 1938 sparkies. 2nd thing, todays additive filled gasoline needs a HOTTER sparkie to burn off the additives. Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025. BIG CAUTION: fer neuibie tractor owners, keep yer itchy-twitch fingers off'n the spring loaded choke knobie ...until... yer tractor starter has made at least 2-rumpas. And then only a QUICK pull is needed. Only in the COLDEST of winter do you need enny choke after start-up. (5-mins?) Specially confuzing to drivers of BelchFire-V8's with electronic fuel injection........HTH, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

Bob · Sep 8, 2017

(quoted from post at 23:53:24 09/07/17) Fure........there is an obscure advantage to positive (+) ground fer yer sparkies. Electrons (-) are attracted to positive (+) potential. That is the reason fer positive (+) ground. 2017 sparkies are so much better than 1938 sparkies. 2nd thing, todays additive filled gasoline needs a HOTTER sparkie to burn off the additives. Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025. BIG CAUTION: fer neuibie tractor owners, keep yer itchy-twitch fingers off'n the spring loaded choke knobie ...until... yer tractor starter has made at least 2-rumpas. And then only a QUICK pull is needed. Only in the COLDEST of winter do you need enny choke after start-up. (5-mins?) Specially confuzing to drivers of BelchFire-V8's with electronic fuel injection........HTH, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

C'mon, Dell, you know that coil secondaries can be wound in either direction, ultimately determining spark polarity.

YES, a negative-going pulse to spark plugs is desirable, but that can be achieved with either battery ground polarity (and commonly was) by winding the coil in the appropriate manner.

So to state, in general, that one battery polarity is inherently better for a HOT spark at the plugs is simply HOGWASH.

On the other hand, if you had stated that an "N" series coil was designed for use only with a (+) ground system, I'd have to agree with you.

Dunno if the modern chinese knockoffs even get THAT correct, tho!

Dell (WA) · Sep 8, 2017

Bob........yeah butt.......this isn't HiFi speaker XFMRS, or pole pigs, ittza auto-xfmr. One continuous winding center-tapped fer the points connection to ground. (well center tap issn't quite rite, 1/4-tapped? but ittza tapped on one continuous winding) ........Dell

L.Fure · Sep 9, 2017

It charges now, and the new regulator made it past its first hour. I asked at the parts store what kind of warranty they had on the regulator, they told me that it has a lifetime warranty. I guess we'll see about that when/if it ever quits working.

Royse · Sep 9, 2017

Glad you got it working.
What parts store had a lifetime warranty?
Do you have a part number?

L.Fure · Sep 9, 2017

(quoted from post at 18:36:18 09/09/17) Glad you got it working.
What parts store had a lifetime warranty?
Do you have a part number?

I bought it at O'Reilly's. I don't have a part number in front of me right now. I'll get it the next time I go up to the garage.

carlntexas · Sep 9, 2017

(quoted from post at 12:46:08 09/09/17)

(quoted from post at 18:36:18 09/09/17) Glad you got it working.
What parts store had a lifetime warranty?
Do you have a part number?

Click to expand...

I bought it at O'Reilly's. I don't have a part number in front of me right now. I'll get it the next time I go up to the garage.

didn't know they had 8N regulators they are gonna be broke.

L.Fure · Sep 10, 2017

(quoted from post at 18:36:18 09/09/17) Glad you got it working.
What parts store had a lifetime warranty?
Do you have a part number?

The regulator brand is BWD, and the part number is R190. On my receipt it says that the part has a limited lifetime warranty.

Royse · Sep 10, 2017

(quoted from post at 09:25:28 09/10/17)

(quoted from post at 18:36:18 09/09/17) Glad you got it working.
What parts store had a lifetime warranty?
Do you have a part number?

Click to expand...

The regulator brand is BWD, and the part number is R190. On my receipt it says that the part has a limited lifetime warranty.

Thank you for taking the time to post the part number.
Hopefully yours will last forever and others can use the same one.

L.Fure · Sep 10, 2017

(quoted from post at 15:32:28 09/10/17)

(quoted from post at 09:25:28 09/10/17)

(quoted from post at 18:36:18 09/09/17) Glad you got it working.
What parts store had a lifetime warranty?
Do you have a part number?

Click to expand...

The regulator brand is BWD, and the part number is R190. On my receipt it says that the part has a limited lifetime warranty.

Click to expand...

Thank you for taking the time to post the part number.
Hopefully yours will last forever and others can use the same one.

I even mounted it in an easy access location in case I do need to replace it sometime. BTW, the regulator is painted Ford blue.

carlntexas · Sep 10, 2017

After I bought 3 bad regulators I converted to 12v, but I bought my alternator at O'reillys with a lifetime warranty.

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