9n no start, I'm at a loss here

Hello, wondering if anyone here could chime in with some ideas. I have a 9n that I can't make run for the life of me. It ran pretty good then just kind of died. I have gotten it to start a few times but it won't run for long but it sounds ok when it does. I think about the only thing I have not done is a compression test, but I'm not thinking that is it.
I installed a new distributor with a 12 volt coil and a new carb. I have verified fuel flow into and out of the carb. Verified spark also. Engine cranks and cranks but will not go. Won't even fire on starting fluid. I can't flood it, I tried cranking it for forever with the ignition switch off and the plugs still come out dry. If I hold my hand over the air inlet on the carb while cranking and fuel pours back out of the air inlet when I stop cranking.

I'm a bit clueless here, Wondering if maybe the intake/exhause manifold cracked or something and it's drawing exhaust back in the intake side?

Any suggestions would be super appreciated!

Thanks,
Cliff

Put your battery on a charger. (see tip # 60)

You need a strong battery to:

1. Spin the starter

2. Engage the bendix

3. Provide voltage to the coil.

As the battery gets weaker, the first thing to fail is your spark.

The more current you use to spin the starter, the less you have for the ignition.



Next, make sure you have a good spark & fuel. As soon as the tractor stops running, not 5 minutes later, check for spark and fuel.

You need to answer 2 questions before you do anything else:

With the bolt in the carb bowl removed and the gas on, will the fuel flow fill a pint jar in less than 2 minutes?

Next, get out your adjustable gap spark checker * , open the gap to 1/4", hook it up, turn the key on and crank the engine. Does the spark jump 1/4"? Post back with the answers.

And do not buy a new part for the tractor until you can answer this question: how do I know the part on the tractor is defective?

The usual cause of gas dripping out of the carb throat is operator error.

While each N has its own starting sequence, none of them will start well by just yanking out the choke rod & holding it out for 5 or 10 seconds while the engine cranks. This is a gravity fuel system on a low compression engine; it is easily flooded by too much choke.

Try this:

Key on, gas on 2 full turns, clutch in, 3/4 throttle, press the starter button. Let it crank for at least 3 - 4 seconds before you pull the choke rod. Then, don't hold it out for more than 2 or 3 seconds.

If you find out it will not start w/o excessive choking, you have problems.



* Don't own an adjustable gap spark checker? Buy one! Not a test light! Until then, take an old plug, open the gap 1/4" ground it to the head & look for spark. It?s not the color of the spark that counts; it?s the distance it jumps.
75 Tips

cliff........change yer sparkies AGAIN!!! ya FLOODED 'em and with todays additive gasoline ya'll NEVER gett'em to sparkle again. Don't throw'em away, just clean'n'dry 'em in HOT running engine, one-atta-time and save'em fer the NEXT TIME (and there will be a next time) Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025.......HTH, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister

oh yeah......learn to adjust yer carbie. Set the down-pointing MAINJET to 2-turns and LEAVITT!!! Adjust the side-pointing idlejet fer FASTEST idle, NOT SMOOTHEST idle. Understant the difference??? Usually will be 1/8-1/4 turn. Remember, the idle adjust is BASS-ACKWARD. out fer LEAN, IN fer ENRICH.

I will do all of the above tomorrow and let you guys know how it goes. Thanks!