Ford jubilee arps dozer blade

So i have a arps blade from an 8n. Everything i believe is there. I'm trying to figure out how to hook it up and can't seem to find a manual or descriptive pictures. Anyone have any suggestions or pictures of it installed. I'm trying to figure out if i need to lengthen the plow frame to use it on the jubilee. Also need to see how the front pulleys mount. And also which hole under the rear axle to use. [/img]
 
(quoted from post at 00:05:30 09/01/17) So i have a arps blade from an 8n. Everything i believe is there. I'm trying to figure out how to hook it up and can't seem to find a manual or descriptive pictures. Anyone have any suggestions or pictures of it installed. I'm trying to figure out if i need to lengthen the plow frame to use it on the jubilee. Also need to see how the front pulleys mount. And also which hole under the rear axle to use. [/img]

You can find what you are looking for here.
http://www.oldfordtractors.com/qa.htm#q4
 
I mounted my ARPS frame off my 8n on my 641 which is about the
same length as the NAA. For the rear brackets I cut a piece of
angle iron 4x6.this drops it almost 6" so it didn't interfere with
the drawbar and rear drawbar bracket and also moved the pin 4"
forward so the front bracket alined with the frame.

Kirk
 
Could you possibly show some detailed pictures of this set up. I'm confused about the rear set up on this. I don't have brackets, all i have is the roundstock that goes in the 3pt that raises the cable with the 3pt hitch.
What it looks like to me is the rear of the plow,which almost Looks like a hitch mount, goes under the pto in the drawbar bracket. But I'm not sure. The rear bracket in this picture is what I'm talking about.
2884.jpg


F.Lure thank you for the link. The front picture really helped. The rear is blurry can't make out the set up
 
The bar you have at the end of your cables goes over your lower 3pt arms just behind the vertical bars on your 3pt. Another way to hook it up is shown in photo by removing
upper 3pt pins and replace with long grade 5 or 8 bolts. Don't put your upper arms on the outside as shown but put them on like the second photo

Kirk
31S3ylwh.jpg
 
Here is how I attach my cables to upper arms. This will also leave the 3pt free for implements such as a back blade ect.

Kirk
RGIWuFXh.jpg
 
The hole on the ARPS frame is to add a ball or clevis for towing or pulling. It does not side into the drawbar bracket. You will need angles under your axle. The standard
sway bar angle bracket will not drop the frame down and move it forward enough. You will need to fabricate something if you want to use it on that tractor.

Kirk
 
Thank you so much for the pictures. Now it looks like you removed your drawbar hanger that mounts around the pto. Am i right? The angle Nanette l brackets you speak of. Where do they mount and where can u figure out dimensions for them. I have everything at my disposal to make them just haven't seen the set up. I seriously appreciate the help. I want this completely ready before snowfall
 
Probably the best way to do it would be to take just the frame and
slide it under the tractor and with the front brackets mounted
aline the frame with the front brackets. Using wood blocks or two
floor Jack's raise the frame front and back. Raise it up as much
as you need so you will still have enough clearance for you
drawbar. Then you can take measurements for your brackets. This
way you know how long your brackets will need to be. Once you have
the holes for your fender bolt drilled in your angle you can mount
the brackets. Then just move the frame up to the angle so you can
get the measurement for the hole you need for your pin. Pins may
be missing on your frame, grade 5 bolts will also work.
If you already have angle sway bar brackets on your tractor you
could remove the pin and fish plate flat steel to it By welding or
using the holes already in the sway bar bracket to bolt to. It
will be harder to get things lined up cause there's not much play
on the brackets on your frame.
 
(quoted from post at 02:31:35 09/02/17) Probably the best way to do it would be to take just the frame and
slide it under the tractor and with the front brackets mounted
aline the frame with the front brackets. Using wood blocks or two
floor Jack's raise the frame front and back. Raise it up as much
as you need so you will still have enough clearance for you
drawbar. Then you can take measurements for your brackets. This
way you know how long your brackets will need to be. Once you have
the holes for your fender bolt drilled in your angle you can mount
the brackets. Then just move the frame up to the angle so you can
get the measurement for the hole you need for your pin. Pins may
be missing on your frame, grade 5 bolts will also work.
If you already have angle sway bar brackets on your tractor you
could remove the pin and fish plate flat steel to it By welding or
using the holes already in the sway bar bracket to bolt to. It
will be harder to get things lined up cause there's not much play
on the brackets on your frame.

I do have the sway bar angle brackets already bolted up. Will it line up with any of the holes on those brackets? It looks in your picture that you are in the farthest inboard hole of the sway bar bracket am i wrong
 
The sway bar brackets should line up with in(on the 8n) but your
tractor is about 4"long and it will have to drop below the drawbar
if you have one.
The one in the photo is not a sway bar bracket. It's a piece of
6"X6" angle iron. The hole had to be drilled

Kirk
 
Ok thank you. Sorry for such a long delay, have not been able to mess with it. In assuming i will need to remove the draw bar bracket that is around my pto shaft otherwise i can't raise the plow anywhere close to the mounting points
3713.jpg
 
I think that's why Kirk made his own under-fender brackets,
so it would mount lower and clear the drawbar and bracket.

Where are you located? I have an Arps dozer frame made for
a Jubilee that runs off the hydraulics, but I don't have the
blade for it so I'd be willing to sell it reasonably.

This is it mounted on my 851 mutt. It fits a NAA/Jubilee/600/601
well, but I had to leave a spacer out to put it on my 851.

3721.jpg


3722.jpg


3723.jpg
 

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