Ford 8n front distributor

OptimusPrime

New User
I'm new to tractor ownership, so I appreciate you help with what may be common knowledge. It's not for me. :)

I have an 8n with a front mount distributor. I am trying to unbolt it so I can check the points and replace the broken distributor cap.

For the life of me I can't get the bolts off to work on it. Any suggestions of tool types or techniques would be appreciated.

I can't get my socket wrench in there and I'm just using a 1/2 wrench now. It always slips off and I bust my knuckles.
 
A 1/2" wrench will work fine assuming some moron hasn't rounded the bolts off.

The front distributor on the N tractors may be a bit of a surprise & mystery to some folks, but it was the norm on V-8 Ford cars and trucks from 1932 to 1948.

The front distributor was designed to come off of the tractor to replace/adjust the points. To do this, remove the wire on the coil, remove the coil bail, remove the distributor cap & take the two bolts off. The base of the distributor has an offset tang & can only go back one way unless you really force it on.

The first thing you need to check is bushing wear. If the shaft has any sideways movement AT ALL, the bushings must be replaced. (see Note 1, below) Next, if this is the first time you have had the distributor off the tractor, make sure the advance weights are in working order. (See Note 2, below)

Next, look at how the points & condenser are set in the distributor before you start pulling it down! Turn the tang & observe how the points open & close. If this is your first time doing it, draw a sketch! Make sure you are using quality points. I use only Wells, Blue Streak or Echlin brand points (See Note 3, below). Be careful not to ground the tip of the condenser wire to the body of the distributor when you replace the points. Do not break the little copper strip that go to the points. (If you do, make another out of the old set of points). Check the insulator w/ your meter. If it's bad, replace it with a Hillman Group square .375 license plate screw, Item # 138916, model #881189. Also, make sure the condenser wire does not go through the same opening in the distributor as the coil pig tail. The condenser wire goes through the opening on the top right.

Look at the old points; are they burned, pitted or misaligned? Check the point gap, .015 on all four lobes. Make sure the blade is at a perfect right angle to the points. You want to feel just the slightest bit of drag when you pull the blade through the points. Set the points on the high side of the cam and ensure they align correctly. Make sure you have the star washers under the screws on the points. If you need to replace the 8-32 X.19 fillister head screws, ensure that the new screws do not interfere with the advance weights. Dress the points by running a piece of card stock or a brown paper bag through them. New points sometimes have an anti-corrosive dielectric coating on them & old points can corrode or pick up grease from a dirty feeler gauge or excessive cam lubricant. And, don?t forget to lube the rubbing block w/ cam lube; not Vaseline, not bearing grease, but cam lube . (See Note 3, below).

If you are using quality points and cannot get the gap to open to .015, chances are you need to replace the bushings. (See Note 2, below)

Now, set the timing. Get a meter or test light, a 21/64? drill bit (See Note 4, below) & a metal straight edge. Put the distributor face down w/ the condenser on the left & the timing plate lock screw on the bottom. Look at the end of the shaft: it has a narrow side & a wide side. Make sure you can tell the difference. Now, place the drill bit in the bottom mounting hole (this will be your reference point for measuring). Next, place a straight edge on the wide side of the tang on the shaft as shown in fig. FO83 in the picture. Rotate the shaft CCW (as viewed from rotor side OR CW as viewed from back/tang side) until the straight edge is ?" beyond the outside edge of the drill bit you stuck in the distributor mounting hole. At this distance, the distributor points should start to open (get your meter/light out now & check). If not, loosen the timing plate lock screw and turn to advance or retard the timing (move the plate down to advance timing, up to retard). Remember, each one of those little hash marks represents about 4? of timing. Keep adjusting until you get the proper ?" setting. (if the plate won?t move, you might need to remove the big C clip to loosen it a bit) As you?re adjusting, eliminate backlash by turning the shaft backwards (CW as viewed from the front) and bring the shaft forward (CCW as viewed from the front) to measure your setting. This ?" setting will get you static timing at top dead center.

After you set the points & timing, do a continuity check before you put the distributor back on the tractor. Do not skip this step! Before you start, make sure your meter/light works.

With the distributor still off the tractor, follow these steps:

1. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other on both sides of the open points. On the side closest to the cam, you should have continuity. Not on the other side! If you do, you will also have continuity everywhere because the points are grounded.

2. Coil off, cap off, points open. One probe on the brass screw & the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity! Now, rotate the tang on the distributor....as the points open & close, you have continuity (closed) and lose it when they open.

3. Put the coil on the distributor, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other on the cam side of the open points. You should have continuity!

4. Coil on, cap off, points open. One probe on the lead on the top of the coil, the other anywhere on the body of the distributor. You should have no continuity!

At this point, I just put the distributor, coil & cap all back on the tractor as a unit. The reason I do this is because it is real easy to get the cap or coil misaligned trying to put it back together, one piece at a time. The result is something gets broken or you get a ?no spark? problem.

It's possible to put it back on wrong & break it. Look at the slot on the end of the cam shaft. Whatever angle it happens to be, turn the distributor tang to match it. Make sure you can tell the wide side from the narrow side on both the cam & distributor! (close counts). Place the distributor on the front of the engine, gently push it in place & slowly turn the distributor body until you feel the tang slip into the slot. Rotate the distributor body until the bolt holes line up. Hand tighten the two bolts until the distributor body is flush with the timing gear cover.

Double-check your firing order & plug wires. It?s 1-2-4-3, counterclockwise. It?s very easy to cross 3 & 4 both at the cap and on the head.

And finally, do not forget to remove the distributor on at least an annual basis (more often, depending on use) to check the point gap and re-lube the cam.





Note 1: Unscrew the plate hold down screw & remove the C clip to get the plate out. Remove the shaft & weights. The weights should freely move.



Note 2: There are three ways to replace the bushings in a front distributor:

1. Buy new bushings (part numbers 9N12120 front & 18-12132 rear). Press out the old ones, press in the new ones and ream to fit. CAUTION: do not try this unless you have a press & know how to use it. If you break the base, a new one costs $130. If you bend the tower which holds the front bushing, a new plate will cost you $30.

2. Take the new bushings and distributor to your local machine shop.

3. Send the distributor out for bushing replacement if you do not have a
local machine shop.

Make sure your distributor isn?t worn out; check the wear parts with a micrometer and compare what you have to the factory specs (below).

Factory Specs:

Shaft top .4367 / .4370

Shaft Bottom .8625 / .8630

Cam Flats .789 / .791

Cam Lobes .869 / .871

Base Tang .177 / .178



Note 3: NAPA part numbers:

? Points: FD-6769X or ECH CS35

? Condenser: FD-71 or ECH FA200

? Rotor: FD-104 or ECH FA 300

? Cap: FD-126 or ECH FA 350

Note 3: Yesterday's Tractor kit:

Premium Blue Streak points (A0NN12107ABS), rotor, condenser, and gauge Part
No: APN12000ABSR

Note 3: nnalert's kit:

Heavy-Duty Point Set, Condenser, Heavy-Duty Rotor, Heat Range Matched Spark Plugs. Packed 6 to Master Carton. Contains: 1-9N12107 Point Set, 1-AONN12300A Condenser, 1-9N12200 Rotor,1-9N12104 Gasket Kit,4-AL437 Spark
Plug,1-015 Gauge, 1-025 Gauge.

Note 3: Distributor cam lube, Mac's Auto Parts:

http://www.macsautoparts.com/ford_edsel/distributor-cam-lube-made-with-silic
one-7-8-ounce-381629.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=paid_search&utm_campa
ign=paid_search_google_pla&scid=scplp58-20966-1&sc_intid=58-20966-1&gclid=CN
7P-sjQ9tICFYePswodaH0HRg

Note 3: Distributor cam lube NAPA:

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECHML1



Note 4: Rather than the drill bit, a jig made by Dan Allen (The Old Hokie) will make this task quicker & more accurate.

http://windyridgefarm.us/
75 Tips
 
You're welcome. Glad to help.

Make sure you check bushing wear & use quality points. ( see tips 66, 67 & 68)

Post back if you have any questions.
75 Tips
 
What's not for you? The Ford Front Mount distributor, the 8N, or common knowledge??? I had to ask... ; > )

Listen to Bruce(VA) and download a copy of his 75 Tips For N-Owners. As mentioned, there are only two bolts that secure the distributor onto the engine, but there are some things you need to disconnect first. It is also highly recommend me that you buy the essential manuals for 8N Owners shown below. The I&T F-04 Manual, the 8N Operator's Manual, and the '39-'53 MPC (Master Parts Catalog) are required reading if'N ya wanna be an N owner.

Now, on my front mount Ford Tractors, since I have Herman Munster body parts, i.e. 5XL hands at least, I have found it less hassle and easier to work on/remove the front distributor by first removing/loosening the fan belt. I loosen the generator tensioning arm bolt and the mounting bolt, then can pivot the genny up so the belt becomes slack and I can then slip it off and over the fan blade out of the way. Then I gently let the genny down, don't let it drop freely, so now I have room to get my fat hands in there to do the rest. I also will take the coil off after removing the coil wire, by releasing the bail and removing the coil before pulling the body of the tractor. Some leave it on, I just prefer to take it off first.

Timing new points is important so be sure to get the manuals so you know how to do it right. A frequent contributor here, TOH (The Old Hokie) makes and sells a super little timing jig just for the front mount distributor. It is well worth $$$ to get one. The manuals will have the proper setting procedure as well, it just takes a little longer and there's nothing wrong with learning how to do it correctly yourself. Some fellas just aren't mechanically inclined and/or lack the self confidence to do it themselves and prefer someone else does the work. No problem there are a few of us who will rebuild your distributor, carb, and other components like Royse and myself. My email is open, TOH and Royse can be found simply by searching the archives or scrolling to one of their posts/replies.

FORD 8N OWNER ESSENTIAL MANUALS:
qI9P22k.jpg

TPD
 
Even though I have read the procedure before, this is a great version.
I sure wish I had had it the first time through 40 years ago.
The only break I got way back was holing my radiator and having to remove it for repair.
Holy smokes, that pesky distributor was RIGHT THERE, so I did the points/cond again.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top