Jarhead1845

New User
I have a Ford 2n.Think it's 1943.I can start it and it runs great for about half hour.Cut brush up and it's just shuts down.I can keep it running sometimes by playing with throttle and choke pull.Then it will be ok for awhile then same thing 20 minutes later.New plugs.Dist cap and inside all new.new wires.Smells like it's flooded.Took air cleaner hose off carb and it's just dripping with gas.I cleaned air cleaner up also.I'm thinking the carb float level is little high.It's pretty nasty looking.I ordered a new carb online be here this weekend.Anyone think I may have another issue or am I looking in the right spot.Any suggestions? Thand everyone.
 
Jarhead.......yer description is indicative of a BAD 4-nipple ignition coil. Ennytime ya have running issues, replace yer sparkies. Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025. While yer carbie float level maybe a little HI, (shuld be 1/4") yer time line doesn't match the BAD carbie scenario ...and... you will haffta adjust yer new carbie ennyhoo You do know yer OEM M/S carb is indoubtably rebuildable, don't you?........HTH, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
Your first mistake was not troubleshooting the problem. Yes, you could have a coil problem. You could also have a defective ignition switch or a leaky condenser.

Your second mistake was buying new carb when yours is not only rebuildable, you don't even know if it has a problem.

Pulling out the choke gives you a richer mixture. So, you could have either a fuel or spark problem.

A carb out of adjustment will also cause this problem; set the main jet at 1-1/2 turns out & leave it alone.

A dirty carb can cause the problem as well; start by cleaning the fuel screens. (see tips 45 & 56)

Dirty/old gas, or water in the gas can cause this problem.

Restricted fuel flow can cause this problem; remove the bolt at the bottom of the carb & check for flow. The flow should fill a pint jar in under 2 minutes.

On my 1950 frontmount, needing choke to run is the first sign that the points need adjusting/replacing. As soon as it stops get out your adjustable gap spark checker * , open the gap to 1/4", hook it up, turn the key on and crank the engine. Does the spark jump 1/4"?

A vacuum leak can do the same thing. Get a hand propane torch and carefully spray it (unlit of course) around the intake manifold at the carb to manifold interface & the manifold to block gasket of the tractor while it is running. Or, you can use carb cleaner or WD40. If it speeds up, you found the leak. Sometimes (rarely) manifolds crack or get rust holes.

Lastly, when all else fails, you could have an air leak around the carb metering section. The likely suspects are leaky throttle shaft seals and/or a worn throttle shaft. Or, just a real dirty carb w/ clogged passages.

Bottom line: Probably 90% of "needs choke to run" problems are fuel related, but do not rule out ignition problems, contrary to what others may tell you. I?ve had that very same problem before w/ a rebuilt carb, fresh fuel & good flow & a tight manifold.......and it was a spark problem. But, that was unusual. Just check the likely fuel problems first.

And do not buy a new part for the tractor until you can answer this question: how do I know the part on the tractor is defective?


* Don't own an adjustable gap spark checker? Buy one! Not a test light! Until then, take an old plug, open the gap 1/4" ground it to the head & look for spark. It?s not the color of the spark that counts; it?s the distance it jumps.
75 Tips
 

You stated once the tractor begins to stall out, you use the choke in an attempt to clear the problem. Using the choke when the engine is running can result in the flooding symptoms you noted.

When the tractor stalls, immediately check for spark using a spare spark plug with the gap opened as Bruce posted.
 

Jarhead, can you describe "Nasty looking"? and are you referring to the float? or the carb? or the whole tractor? or the situation?
 

I recently had a similar problem with my 9N. See (Ford 9N running problem) on this forum, page 2.
I could only keep my tractor running by choking it, as it was beginning to stall. The last thing I would think of was my points. But I took Bruce's advice and replaced them, and the tractor is running great!
 
(quoted from post at 08:40:50 08/17/17)
I recently had a similar problem with my 9N. See (Ford 9N running problem) on this forum, page 2.
I could only keep my tractor running by choking it, as it was beginning to stall. The last thing I would think of was my points. But I took Bruce's advice and replaced them, and the tractor is running great!

I second Gordo's experience. The points came with a new condenser and such; so I'm not sure if the points were bad; or the condenser got leaky when it was hot. Either way, putting new guts in the distributor solved an issue that sounds very similar to what you have going on.

I was lucky, though, I guessed without checking the spark.

A year later, I bought a Ford 3000 with a similar stalling issue. This time, I bought an adjustable spark tester at NAPA (less than 20 bucks) and did the trick suggested above where I checked the spark immediately after stalling and found...no spark...

Same thing. I replaced the points, rotor, condenser, plugs, plug wires and coil. (I did other testing to verify the coil issue).

I have many, many hours on both machines now with no stalling issues.
 

I should say, though, that...since you replaced your distributor guts; the only part of my story that is different from yours is the coil.

I ended up needing to replace the coil on the 3000.

A coil can run well when cold and then have an insulation breakdown when it's hot.
 
I have had this tractor for only a few months. I did replace the old carb with a new one.When I bought it the guy replaced the plugs.replaced the distributor and all the insides.He put new wires on also.He did replace the coil and dist cap.The reason I replaced the carb was it needed it.The guy told me that it would be needing a carb because of the bent linkage and it sticking not closing tight.Always seemed to run ok but not for long.After buying the carb I read about the new carb settings on the forums and set them like it said.Installed the carb and now b it will start right up.Need to choke it just a bit.After warm it idles perfect.Does not shut down anymore.But the trouble now is it will not take the throttle.Idles great but as soon as I Rev it up it will spit and sputter.Will not take the gas at all.Bring it back down to idle it's fine.I tried adjusting the main mixture in and out slowly but no matter which way It will not take the gas. I can raise the speed up but I have to work on the choke to do it.I'm new to all this stuff and would like some help with this.Thanx everyone
 

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