How to screw in a tube

TVZ

Member
I just changed the governor on my 9N. Got the bolts in ok and don't expect any problem w/ the linkage; however, I cannot for the life of me get the metal tube fitting started threading into the
governor! I imagine that I bent it a bit when removing; however, to my eye it looks like I am lining it up nice & & tight & perpendicular to the hole where it goes--but as much as I turn the
fitting to screw it in, the threads just don't catch. Are there any tricks here?
 
Do you mean the oil lines? They have compression fittings, like your carb and sediment bulb, and oil gauge, and require TLC to start as are a special 7/16-24 thread. Always start by hand to get the 'feel' you are not cross threading.


TPD
 
You may have squashed the brass elbow a little while R+R'ing it. They are a common fitting, and decent auto parts store should have one, for just a few bucks. Then, be careful when installing it not to mash the threaded area out-of-round with your wrench.

Thread size is 7/16"-24 in the inverted flare port.

Fitting size is 1/8" pipe thread by 1/4" inverted flare.


<img src = "https://static.grainger.com/rp/s/is/image/Grainger/5MTE6_AS01?$zmmain$">
 
Jeez, Tim, don't confuse him! The fittings you mention are "INVERTED FLARE", NOT "compression fittings"!
 
Ok, I guess I did honk on my brass fitting a bit too much. Even when I take it out of the governor, I can't screw the tubing fitting into it.

Fortunately, however, my old one seems to be ok. However, when I screw it into the governor, I can easily screw it in a little past the "hole-up" position in which it needs to end up. So do I use a wrench to force it in another ? revolution and risk mangling the hole again; or leave it loose? Will it then leak? Maybe put some kind of goop on it first, so when I leave it in the loose "hole-up" position, it will do the job and not leak? What should I do, guys?
 
Ok, I guess I did honk on my brass fitting a bit too much. Even when I take it out of the governor, I cannot screw the tubing fitting into it.

Fortunately, however, my old one seems to be ok. However, when I screw it into the governor, I can easily screw it in a little past the "hole-up" position in which it needs to end up. So do I use a wrench to force it in another ? revolution and risk mangling the hole again; or leave it loose? Will it then leak? Maybe put some kind of goop on it first, so when I leave it in the loose "hole-up" position, it will do the job and not leak? What should I do, guys?
 
Install it hole up, no goop or goop; I've never used goop on brass fitting but others do & swear by it. Install the fitting finger tight then use the proper tool, a flare wrench, to tighten the fitting.
75 Tips
 
Screw a 7/16"-24 short bolt in the inverted flare port hand tight to keep it from collapsing when you tighten it up in the governor.Use a wide jaw crescent wrench rather than a narrow 9/16 open end wrench will help also.
 
We have probably all have had this problem. I find it works sometime to loosen the end at the oil filter which gives you more flexibility at the governor. You could take it loose at the filter and hook up governor then the filter. Good luck.
 
Thanks guys. Don't have a flare wrench, but by using a wide crescent wrench as suggested, and staying at the base of the fitting so as not to distort the opening, I got it in and got everything hooked up. However, see my following post...
 
p/n 87381-S Elbow -(oil line) outlet from filter to governor, 1/4" flared fitting elbow. That's 1/4 tapered pipe thread into the governor, 7/16-24 NFS (special) thread for oil line. If you haven't already boogered up the threads in the brass elbow and/or the steel oil line fitting, then you need to use two hands, and start the line/fitting slowly and by slightly moving the line a bit to help align it squarely, male to female. The steel oil line has a flared end that has to be seated correctly, perpendicular to the elbow inlet, square to the world. If the line has been bent around and is no longer straight, you may be fighting to get it aligned into the female threads correctly. A new brass elbow is cheap, and a new correct oil line can be both be purchased at most Ford tractor supply houses. Brass is a softer metal than steel so will strip/booger up before you ever do damage to the steel fitting on the oil line. By the way, early 9Ns never had an oil line to the governor. Those were added later and a service bulletin issued to dealers instructing them to add the elbow and line from oil filter housing to governor on any customer with a prior model governor. I have an original Ford-Ferguson Manual on The Governors and how to rebuild and add a the oil line if needed. If you want a copy, you will need to email me because I am not allowed to post it here nor the link to The "other" Ford N-Series Tractor Club site so you can download it FOR FREE yourself.

TPD
 
(quoted from post at 07:37:17 08/19/17) That's 1/4 tapered pipe thread into the governor,
TPD

Tim, you STILL don't have it correct.

MPT end of the brass fitting is 1/8" pipe thread, NOT 1/4", as you wrote.

Inverted flare side of fitting accepts 1/4" (nominal) steel line.
 

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