It's the fuel, right?

RichmondEd

New User
1946 2N w/ 1948 8N engine (front mount distributor) and 12volt conversion (6 volt coil) surges under finish mowing load.

My impression is a fuel issue, as tinkering with the carb helps, and the start is quick and idle smooth. However, when idling and I screw in the mix screw all the way, the engine doesn't falter like the FO4 manual says it should. Is it possible the end of the screw broke off in the carb?

When the engine was installed 6 years ago, it appears the mechanic used a squeeze tube of gasket material between the carb and manifold. I say this because it looks like tar is dripping out of that joint. I tightened the bolts that attach the carb to the manifold and perhaps the form a gasket material is wearing out because the bolts had some play.

Over the years I've seen how a lot of guys on this board misdiagnose a fuel problem as electrical. I want to make sure I'm not doing the opposite. Thanks for reading!
 
(quoted from post at 10:08:08 08/17/17) 1946 2N w/ 1948 8N engine (front mount distributor) and 12volt conversion (6 volt coil) surges under finish mowing load.

My impression is a fuel issue, as tinkering with the carb helps, and the start is quick and idle smooth. However, when idling and I screw in the mix screw all the way, the engine doesn't falter like the FO4 manual says it should. Is it possible the end of the screw broke off in the carb?

When the engine was installed 6 years ago, it appears the mechanic used a squeeze tube of gasket material between the carb and manifold. I say this because it looks like tar is dripping out of that joint. I tightened the bolts that attach the carb to the manifold and perhaps the form a gasket material is wearing out because the bolts had some play.

Over the years I've seen how a lot of guys on this board misdiagnose a fuel problem as electrical. I want to make sure I'm not doing the opposite. Thanks for reading!

Take the carb off and replace with the proper gasket and be done with it. If you are talking about the idle needle, that means you have an air leak, could be the gasket.
 
Take the carb off the tractor and replace the gasket. Unscrew the idle screw and see if it has a tip on it.....which it probably does. While the carb is off, replace the elbow & the screen in the sediment bowl. ( see tips 45, 56 & 70).

While the carb is off the tractor, spray it out w/ carb cleaner.

If none of that helps, you have an air leak in the idle circuit.
75 Tips
 
"...and I screw in the [u:044c46907f]mix screw[/u:044c46907f] all the way, the engine doesn't falter like the FO4 manual says it should." TRUE for Main Power Adjust screw, but generally not true for Idle Mixture screw, primarily because almost all these old tractors are idling fast enough that the Idle Mix adjust is more or less inoperative.
 
Ed........the idlemix screw is BASS-ACKWARDS......OUT fer lean, IN fer ENRICH. Set yer down-pointing MAINJET to 2-turns and LEAVITT!!! Adjust yer side-pointing idlemix fer FASTEST idle, NOT SMOOTHEST idle. Understand the difference??? Usually 1/8-1/4 turn. Adjust the BEHIND the carb idleset fer ennythang under 500-rpms. I once gott my eazy starting 6-volt 52-8N to idle at 375-rpms with a transistorized tachometer. One last comment, ennytime you have running issues, change yer sparkies. Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025...Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister
 
With the engine running at idle spray a little starter fluid around the gasket. If the causes engine to surge or change rpm, you have a leak at the gasket or fittings.
 

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