Putting on the patina

Changed out the center housing and did some Hydraulic work on one of the rusty old tractors. I wanted to match the rusty patina so I tried my hand a painting rust. Still have to perfect it but didn't look too bad for the first time. Here's the before and after photos.

Kirk

Here's the after test spot.

Looks pretty good!

I like it, What's the technique?

That looks better than real rust.LOL

I used some Rust-Oleum paints I had laying around. Flat black and brown and rusrty red primer and yellow(cause I didn't have orange). Use a piece of cardboard for a palate. Pour a bit of each color on the palate. Used an old paint brush and then randomly dab it on using same brush for all paint.
Kind of felt like old TV painter Bob Rossi.

Kirk

Kirk-
There is a product I use on my rusty parts I don't/can't sandblast or remove all the old rust, grease, grime, paint from. I use it on my old Ford tools when I restore them, but only after I soak in white vinegar to get them down to bare metal. This method is best when you don't want to ruin the patina by bead or sand blasting. Anyway, the product is made by PERMATEX, use to be called EXTEND years ago, but now is just called "RUST TREATMENT". There are two types of iron oxide, one is good , one is bad. The bad type is red oxide, or as we call it, rust. The good type is called black oxide. The EXTEND product converts the red to black essentially neutralizing the red and slows down if not stopping the red from anymore deteriorating. You should clean as much of the old red oxide off first as well as any dirt, grease, and grime to get maximum effectiveness. Like I said, I've been using it since about 2002 and have some Ford Tractor tools and some other smaller parts that I used it on and it is holding up as no signs of any bleed-thru areas or surface rust have emerged. I never use primer after the EXTEND application on my tools either. If I was dong a whole tractor restoration, I'd buy the better commercial product to get all the cast parts like housings, block, and sheet metal. I'd also use a primer too. I don't know if John Smith used such a product or not on his restorations.

Tim Daley(MI)

Is it just me or are those pictures five time bigger than they should be for this forum?

When I went to post them they seem very big but when I hit the
submit button they returned to normal size so I thought everything
was ok.
I am in classic view. Went on modern view and they are bigger. Go
to classic view and check it out.

Kirk

Thanks Tim, will keep that product in mind.

Kirk

I think your on to something there Kirk,looks good.

I used a rifle barrel browning solution on this rear work light. It took quite a while to apply and came out all right but I wouldn't recommend it for big parts.