hyd top cover wont come off

deene

Member
ok so tractor went into the shop yesterday and I drained the hyd oil...took out all the perimeter bolts...removed the seat..detached the 3rd arms and took off sidecovers and unhooked linkage as you guys suggested....put a bolt thru a chain to one of the seat stud holes and hooked up the cherry picker and nothing...then I got a landscape timber and applied pressure to the boss next to the lift arm and bounced it on both sides...nothing came loose...then hooked chain around the lift arm boss(as close to the casting as possible) and put hyd pressure on it with the picker...tried to drive a small screwdriver between main housing and the top casting to no avail...hit repeatedly with a 3lb dead blow hammer and nothing has moved...im at a loss...I foresee breaking the casting if I get rough but am wondering if somebody glued it with indian head or something that sets up like that..i thought the hardest thing to do was unhook the linkages inside and now this...any ideas or suggestions?...thanks for any help
 
deene.......uh, careful on whacken-it. Me? I'd probably apply some heat to the seam. That castiron will suck heat outta what ever yer using, buttcha need to be some what aggressive, base upon yer description. Yer wifes hair dryer ain't gonna due itt. Yer home handy man propane torch outto due itt. One last thought, sometimes a mild ACID will cuttchur glue. Try WHITE VINEGAR.........pickled Dell
 
Use a bottle jack and a section of 2x4 under the part of the casting that extends out to the lift arms. Make absolutely certain that you have removed all the perimeter bolts. A little pressure on the 2x4 and some careful tapping with a scraper and a hammer on the seam will get it done.
 
I use a heavy duty pry bar under one of the bolts on back next to the draft control spring. The gaskets used on them will stick without using any type of glue.

Mark
 
deene:

Had the exact same problem a couple of months ago, cherry picker was literally lifting the whole tractor. I ended up using a larger pry bar at the back end, and it finally popped loose.
I just put pressure on the hoist, put the pry bar at the back below the control spring housing and bounced. I did have to use a 6' Johnson bar, but then it just popped.
I was skeptical, but it worked.

Scott
 
Be sure that you have the correct 14 bolts removed, then apply Zane's crowbar as shown.
1894.jpg
 

I removed my top cover last year to do some work. I don't remember even having to pry it off like that. There weren't any leaks around the top cover either. It just seemed to lift right off.

Guess I was just lucky.
 

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