Ford 9N running problem

Gordo83

Member
My Ford 9N has a running issue all of a sudden. I can start it, but it won't stay running unless I play with the choke. It will run fine for about a minute and then die, unless I get to the choke fast enough.
I removed the gas line and am getting a full flow to the carburetor. I then removed the screen and it's clean. My carburetor has a valve under it, and when I open it, I'm getting a full flow. I removed the carburetor and completely disassembled it, cleaning out all jets and orifices. It made no difference. It seems liken a float issue, but thought maybe someone here might chime in with an opinion.
Thanks
 
Pulling out the choke gives you a richer mixture. So, you could have either a fuel or spark problem.

A carb out of adjustment will also cause this problem; set the main jet at 1-1/2 turns out & leave it alone.

A dirty carb can cause the problem as well; start by cleaning the fuel screens. (see tips 45 & 56)

Dirty/old gas, or water in the gas can cause this problem.

Restricted fuel flow can cause this problem; remove the bolt at the bottom of the carb & check for flow. The flow should fill a pint jar in under 2 minutes.

On my 1950 frontmount, needing choke to run is the first sign that the points need adjusting/replacing.

A vacuum leak can do the same thing. Get a hand propane torch and carefully spray it (unlit of course) around the intake manifold at the carb to manifold interface & the manifold to block gasket of the tractor while it is running. Or, you can use carb cleaner or WD40. If it speeds up, you found the leak. Sometimes (rarely) manifolds crack or get rust holes.

Lastly, when all else fails, you could have an air leak around the carb metering section. The likely suspects are leaky throttle shaft seals and/or a worn throttle shaft. Or, just a real dirty carb w/ clogged passages.

Bottom line: Probably 90% of "needs choke to run" problems are fuel related, but do not rule out ignition problems, contrary to what others may tell you. I?ve had that very same problem before w/ a rebuilt carb, fresh fuel & good flow & a tight manifold.......and it was a spark problem. But, that was unusual. Just check the likely fuel problems first.

Please be sure to post back & let us know what the fix was. We all learn something if you tell us what worked!
75 Tips
 
Ok, Thanks. As far as your list, I can eliminate the thorough carb clean. Done. Clean fresh gas. Done. Full consistent fuel flow out the bottom of the carb. Done.
Now my battert is on the charger. Still has the stock 6 volt system. I killed it trying to get it running.
Never gave the points a second thought. But she has been starting hard lately, needing a little squirt of quick start, so I don't kill the battery.
Speaking of points. The first time I changed them after buying the tractor was in the middle of winter with 6" of snow on the ground. I completed the removal and replacement completely with a mirror! I happened to mention it to someone and they asked me why I didn't just remove the distributor and change them on the kitchen table. DOOHH!! Didn't know I could!!
 
Yes, it is designed to be removed to replace the points. Can only go back on one way. Hint - remove the coil and cap while the dist is still
on the tractor and see which way the rotor is pointing. That will help you put it back on.

I can't believe you were able to change the points with the dist on the tractor. There was a post a few years ago about a service shop that
removed the hood and radiator to do this job.
 
Working on it now. Just picked up new points and condenser. I can't believe I did it either! Not only that, I have a bucket loader frame on there and it's directly in my way! I was younger then and didn't know any better. It took me hours to do. I just remember my hands being cold, and the mirror kept fogging up.
I'll let you know how it goes.
Thanks again.
 
Well, I wouldn't have believed it if I wasn't the one working on it. Just finished up replacing and setting the points gap. Put everything else back together, turned on the gas and key; I don't think it turned over twice, and started. I didn't even have time to reach for the choke. It has been idling for around 20 minutes, and now I'm heading out for a load of cord wood.
I can't thank you enough!
I just knew it was something to do with not getting enough fuel. I wasn't even going to bother you folks, but figured I'd post my situation, just for some feedback. Never would have thought of points.
Thanks you very much!
 

Instead of starting a new topic, I figured I'd just add to this one.
As from above, I just replaced the points and condenser on my 9N. The tractor was running great, but had a little skip to it. I decided to change the plugs, as they hadn't been changed in a while. Yesterday morning I picked up new plugs. (AL 437's). Upon pulling the plug closest to the distributor, I noticed there was a slight bridge between the gap. Felt good to change them, all gaped to .025. The tractor started immediately and was running and sounding great. I parked it and went in to have lunch.
Now I'm ready to get some work done. For whatever reason, the tractor would not lite. Absolutely nothing, even with a squirt of quick start. I again wore down my battery trying to start it. Again, never during this time did it even pop.
I know this is such a general question, and almost impossible to answer, but what the heck happened?? I'm at a loss now. I feel like I'm killing this thing with kindness. I even cleaned the air cleaner!
Any opinions are welcome. I guess the first thing I'll try is a coil.
 
Do condensor first of all, classic way they fail and about 2 of every 3 are bad out of box. I have a 41 9N and 44 2N bought new in may of 44.
 
(quoted from post at 07:48:18 08/20/17)
Instead of starting a new topic, I figured I'd just add to this one.
As from above, I just replaced the points and condenser on my 9N. The tractor was running great, but had a little skip to it. I decided to change the plugs, as they hadn't been changed in a while. Yesterday morning I picked up new plugs. (AL 437's). Upon pulling the plug closest to the distributor, I noticed there was a slight bridge between the gap. Felt good to change them, all gaped to .025. The tractor started immediately and was running and sounding great. I parked it and went in to have lunch.
Now I'm ready to get some work done. For whatever reason, the tractor would not lite. Absolutely nothing, even with a squirt of quick start. I again wore down my battery trying to start it. Again, never during this time did it even pop.
I know this is such a general question, and almost impossible to answer, but what the heck happened?? I'm at a loss now. I feel like I'm killing this thing with kindness. I even cleaned the air cleaner!
Any opinions are welcome. I guess the first thing I'll try is a coil.

Before you start throwing parts at it, check the spark at the plugs. It should jump 1/4" These machines are really easy to flood also.
 

So, the distributor has been apart several times, trying different things including the old condenser. Nothing seemed to make a difference. Won't even pop. The last time I took it apart to put the new condenser back in, when I tipped it over to mark how it came off the motor, a piece of spring steel fell out of the guts of the distributor, about 5/16" X 5/8". I have know idea what it is, but when I put everything back together, the damn thing fired right up and stayed running. See pic below.
One thing I am going to do is replace the cap and wires. Every time I take the cap off, one of the plug wires comes off. When I put it back in, it stays, but is very loose.


mvphoto2283.jpg
 

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