Jubilee Hydraulic MOD Question.

www.ntract orclub.com/how tos/pd fs/RemHydrMod2.pd f
Can this be used with double acting cylinders?
Sorry for the dumb question.
 
(quoted from post at 15:38:21 08/01/17) www.ntract orclub.com/how tos/pd fs/RemHydrMod2.pd f
Can this be used with double acting cylinders?
Sorry for the dumb question.

Yes. All you are doing is diverting the pump flow out the test port and through an external valve and then back into the 3pt control valve. Your external control valve determines what is controlled and how. With the appropriate valve you can control single and double acting cylinders or a hydraulic motor, As many of each as your valve will support.

Personally I favor tapping into the hydraulic pressure line just below the pump - easier and you don't have to deal with the restrictive 1/8" pipe ports on the blockoff plate, I'd also recommend using a valve with power beyond and route the return line from the valve to the filler on the hydraulic sump. That way you avoid unwanted interactions with the 3pt control valve.

TOH
 

Oh,I was under the impression that he drilled out those smaller holes where those 1/8" hexes are something larger to help with the flow?
He didn't mention what size but do you think it could be done or just forget it and tap the pump lines?
Do you have a picture or link where I could see the tapped lines?
Thanks Hokie.
 
(quoted from post at 16:27:32 08/01/17)
Oh,I was under the impression that he drilled out those smaller holes where those 1/8" hexes are something larger to help with the flow?
He didn't mention what size but do you think it could be done or just forget it and tap the pump lines?
Do you have a picture or link where I could see the tapped lines?
Thanks Hokie.

You cannot drill them out - not enough meat in the casting. I do not have a picture of how to tap the pressure line but it's not rocket science:

1) Cut a short (3-4")section out of the pressure line about 6" below the pump
2) Installl 90* hydraulic elbows on the cut ends with the legs pointing to the rear of the tractor.
3) Run a hose from the pump side elbow to the IN port on your auxiliary valve
4) Run a hose from the OUT/PB port on your valve to the other elbow.
5) If using a power beyond valve run a hose from the TANK port on the valve to the filler on the hydraulic sump
6) Done.

I would suggest using some heavy (metal??) zip ties to bind the hoses and elbows together and act as a strain relief. You don't want the cut ends flopping about unsupported

For the hard line connections I would also suggest something like a -8 (1/2") VersilFlare nut and sleeve and JIC male elbows. To connect the cut ends of the tube to the elbows you simply slide the nut and sleeve over the tube, butt one end of the elbow up to the cut end, and tighten the nut per the instructions. That leaves you with two 1/2" male JIC connections for the hoses - one pressure OUT and the other pressure IN. I much prefer using hoses with JIC female swivel ends to hose with ridgid male pipe ends. It;s much easier to connect the hoses and you don't need to futz with female pipe swivel adapters.

I have all of those fittings sitting on the shelf if you decide to go that route.

TOH
 


OK thanks Hokie.I think I'm starting to get it.
I'm looking at valves and they say to match GPM of pump with GPM of valve.Wanting to go with a 2 spool valve.

What GPM is my Jubilee pump or should that be a concern?

Thanks again for the help.
 
(quoted from post at 20:02:39 08/02/17)

OK thanks Hokie.I think I'm starting to get it.
I'm looking at valves and they say to match GPM of pump with GPM of valve.Wanting to go with a 2 spool valve.

What GPM is my Jubilee pump or should that be a concern?

Thanks again for the help.

The NAA pump produces about 4 GPM max. You will be hard pressed to find a valve that can't handle that flow ;-) No need to go with a big bulky valve - 8-10 GPM is more than adequate and doesn't take up a lot of mounting space. If you are looking at valves have a look here:

Mobil Hydraulics

This is not a recommendation - I have never purchased from them - but they have the best prices I have seen and you can get a nice 2 spool valve for $100 and a joystick version for $125. They are selling Chief valves and I have used Chief cylinders in the past with no issues. The Chief valves look a lot like the Italian made Walvoil valves I have used in the past - nice compact European design.

TOH
 


That's funny.
Actually I was looking at the joystick valves.
Little more expensive but more convenient to use of course.

Thanks again Mr. OldHokie sir.
 
(quoted from post at 09:08:17 08/03/17)

That's funny.
Actually I was looking at the joystick valves.
Little more expensive but more convenient to use of course.

Thanks again Mr. OldHokie sir.

I am a big fan of joystick valves. They are good for systems that require simultaneous control of two cylinders - e.g. lift and bucket on a loader, raise/lower/angle on a snow plow, etc. A two handle valve is probably better if you are controlling two "independent" cylinders like you find on rear mounted tillage implements.

TOH
 
(quoted from post at 09:56:02 08/03/17)
(quoted from post at 09:08:17 08/03/17)

That's funny.
Actually I was looking at the joystick valves.
Little more expensive but more convenient to use of course.

Thanks again Mr. OldHokie sir.

I am a big fan of joystick valves. They are good for systems that require simultaneous control of two cylinders - e.g. lift and bucket on a loader, raise/lower/angle on a snow plow, etc. A two handle valve is probably better if you are controlling two "independent" cylinders like you find on rear mounted tillage implements.

TOH

I'm seeing [b:34ab2fd1a3][i:34ab2fd1a3]"Lift and Tilts" [/i:34ab2fd1a3][/b:34ab2fd1a3] in my future.
 

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