OT logsplitter pump opinions

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Hey guys, I've decided to reconstruct my hand-me-over home built log splitter. The 4&1/2" cylinder is great but the pump maxes out at 500psi although it is 15gpm...(according to the Brown&Sharp literature). Even at that low pressure the beam will begin to twist, and it's so low that my back aches after 1/2hour of using it.

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Looking at a 22gpm 2 stage pump, that auction site has an aluminum body with mount and coupler for $200ish. Going with a cast iron unit from Surplus is 330 for just the pump (15hp Kohler will be motivating it).

I split around 3 cords a year, am I better off with the cast iron unit or can I get by with an AL body?
 
(quoted from post at 07:20:17 07/26/17) Hey guys, I've decided to reconstruct my hand-me-over home built log splitter. The 4&1/2" cylinder is great but the pump maxes out at 500psi although it is 15gpm...(according to the Brown&Sharp literature). Even at that low pressure the beam will begin to twist, and it's so low that my back aches after 1/2hour of using it.
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Looking at a 22gpm 2 stage pump, that auction site has an aluminum body with mount and coupler for $200ish. Going with a cast iron unit from Surplus is 330 for just the pump (15hp Kohler will be motivating it).

I split around 3 cords a year, am I better off with the cast iron unit or can I get by with an AL body?

At 3 cords a year you won't wear either out if you use a good filter and change the oil regularly. That said you can get a cast iron pump from Surplus Center for less than $300:

22 GPM Two Stage Logsplitter Pump

TOH
 
If that were my splitter I would put a reinforcing beam under your current splitter beam. There is a lot of force going on when splitting wood. Surplus Center and Northern Hydraulics sell good splitter pumps.
 
I have a new larger beam, different engine, bigger reservoir, trailer axle/wheels. 1" thick plate to build the wedge from, going to do a slip-on 4 way too.

The old pump isn't worn out, it specs at 500psi and max 17gpm, the belt drive isn't a good setup putting side-load on the shaft. I was going to rebuild with a jackshaft but when I got full specs on the pump I realized I'd be better off cannibalizing the cyl and valve and building what I wanted. With that massive cyl it's split pretty decent if it was clean wood. Big-ol hard stuff (sugar maple) binds it up and needs driven off with a sledge.

TOH, just found their $230 28Gpm and with their mount and spider drive I'd be at $320 delivered.
 
picture of my old splitter made by brave, got it new around 1984, has split a lot of wood over the years. attached are pictures of other implements that make splitting wood a bit easier moving the wood around.

8hp briggs engine and 13 gal per minute two stage pump, works good,
but as you said, you do have to bend over, but unless you have a front end loader to lift the wood,

firewood splitting is a lot of work,
old saying, burning firewood is efficient because it warms you twice, once when cutting and splitting the wood and once when burning the wood,
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...... I'd be better off cannibalizing the cyl and valve and building what I wanted. ......

Would you be dollars ahead to sell the whole working unit that you have and buy a cyl & valve ?
 
Just rebuilt the 4.5" X 24" stroke cyl a few years back, and it's a new prince valve with detent. A new cyl that size is $300 at the cheapest.

I figured I'd drop a smaller cyl and the old valve on this one and let it be used for kindling......
 
(quoted from post at 04:20:17 07/26/17)

I split around 3 cords a year, am I better off with the cast iron unit or can I get by with an AL body?

at only three cords per year, i'd give strong consideration to splitting with an all-steel maul, like a "monster maul". the wood in the picture is ash, which splits very nicely.

i consistently split about 12 cords per year by hand, 7 cords to heat my house, and 5 cords for the sugar house. i do it by only splitting for about 40 minutes maximum at any one time, and usually only 25 minutes.

wally
 
I agree Wally, with 4 boys in their teens we have three monster mauls, umpteen axes (double, single and fireman) and three really cool things called a "Chopper one" which swings like an axe but splits like a maul. All of which are faster, cheaper and quieter than the hydraulic splitter.

All the wood gets hit several times with one or more of the above before being tossed onto dad's splitter pile, I won't let the boys do that one unsupervised.

When they're in trouble they get to spend some time thinking about what they've done with a sledge and wedge.....
 

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