Wiring Diagram

my9ntractor · Jul 25, 2017

I have a 2N tractor. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 12V conversion? It has the original front mount coil with a 12V battery. When it was running it was wired with the battery positive to the ground. It has 2 resistors. I can't figure you how it is wired wrong and none of the diagrams I have been able to find have anything that even looks the same. I am thinking of wiring it to where the negative is grounded.

It does have a solenoid and the original generator which does work.

my9ntractor · Jul 25, 2017

Is there a way to wire it without the solenoid?

I just need a wiring diagram

Any help is very appreciated.

POPGUN · Jul 25, 2017

google JMOR wiring diagrams

Bruce (VA) · Jul 25, 2017

Google "wiring diagrams JMOR". Find the one that fits your tractor. Don't worry about how your tractor is wired now; re-wire it according to JMOR's diagram & you will be fine. (see tip # 42)

If you put a 12 volt coil on it, you will only need the oem ballast resistor & no others. Chances are you have too much resistance in the ignition circuit even if it still has a 6v coil on it.

How do you know the generator is working? What voltage is it putting out? (HINT: you need 14.5 volts to charge a 12 volt battery)

Not trying to be a smartazz, but do you know the difference between a mechanical start switch and a solenoid? I ask because the 9N's did not have a solenoid.
75 Tips

my9ntractor · Jul 25, 2017

I have a 2n. The guy I bought it from said it was a 9n. I found out later it was a 2n.

I know the generator works because it worked when I rebuilt the engine. This tractor has an ignition switch, a start button, and a solenoid.

I know you are not trying to be a smartazz. I just want this thing to run again.

I don't normally tape the wires. This time I should have because I have never seen anthing with a positive ground. The positive ground is what is throwing me.

Bruce (VA) · Jul 25, 2017

If the starter switch works, you don't need a solenoid. My guess is it was easier for someone to install a solenoid than to repair the linkage or starter switch.

I'll assume the 'start button' is something other than the neutral safety switch on the steering column, right?

What is the generator putting out?

The only difference between positive ad negative ground is that the positive battery cable is attached to the chassis. That's it. Don't over-think it. It will only get you in trouble if you reverse the polarity on an alternator or EI, neither of which are on your tractor.
75 Tips

Dell (WA) · Jul 25, 2017

tractor guy........BOTH the 9N and 2N and early 8N used the same weird 4-nipple dizzy with MANDATORY ballast resistor. It is a WHITE ceramic resistor, usually mounted on the BACK of yer dash panel. And it gitts HOT!!! The 2nd ceramic resistor is a 12-to-6 volt converting resistor. You NEED that to keep from killing yer 6-volt front mount coil. Donna sweat the positive (+) vs negative (-) ground thing ...except... iff'n you have a 12-volt alternator which DEMANDS negative ground. Since you claim you have a 12-volt generator, it donna matter as long as you POLORIZE yer genny to match yer 12-volt battery installation. Question; do you know what a solenoid looks like??? It'll have 2-HEAVY duty connections and a 3rd lite weight wire to go to your BIG starter push button. BTW, 2N's did NOT have a starter solenoid, only the 4-speed 8N's did........HTH, the amazed Dell

Tim PloughNman Daley RIP · Jul 25, 2017

9N and 2N tractors did not have a starter solenoid. Go to the other Ford N-Series Tractor Club website and in the HOW-TO's forum, under ELECTRICAL you will find JMOR's Wiring Pictograms... He has put together a concise tutorial complete with pictures on every conceivable CORRECT way to wire these old Fords, whether 6 volt or 12 volt. Download it and save it for reference. Find your setup, verify your wiring and components are correct and do not deviate from it at all. If you are using a 12 volt battery, best to use a one-wire alternator too...as a negative ground system.

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)

my9ntractor · Jul 25, 2017

I followed the wiring diagram that was the most like mine. When I started to hook up the battery. I got a spark and it was sarting to burn a wire. The wire that was starting to burn is the blue one in the first image. Here are a couple of images.

my9ntractor · Jul 25, 2017

For some reason my photos are not showing.

Bruce (VA) · Jul 25, 2017

Nothing attached,

Electrons are color blind; they don't care what the color of the wire is. But they do care about where that wire is connected. So where does the blue wire connect?
75 Tips

my9ntractor · Jul 25, 2017

It is connected the ammeter to the resister that has the 3 screws. 2 other wires get hot as well. The one from the push button to the other side of the ammeter. The other one goes from the three screw resister to the cutout relay. I thought the cutout relay was a solenoid.

How do you get the images to upload? Then you can see what I am working with.

HCooke · Jul 26, 2017

"I just need a wiring diagram"

Google 'wiring diagrams by JMOR'

The YT site will not let me post a link to these diagrams, but you can find them. They are very helpful.

Bruce (VA) · Jul 26, 2017

Well, here is part of the problem.

In order to help you, we ask questions. If you don't answer those questions, the help you will get is limited.

I'm not the only one to raise the question about the solenoid. Yet, you claimed it had a solenoid after we repeatedly asked you to confirm that.

Yes, pictures would be helpful, but until then, all we have is your description of parts, etc.

So I'll ask this question once more and hope to get an answer: "I'll assume the 'start button' is something other than the neutral safety switch on the steering column, right? "

my9ntractor · Jul 26, 2017

You have to turn the key on then push the start button.

In the first image you can see the burnt wire.

In the second image the small whitish color cylinder on the left is what I though was the solenoid. After looking at JMOR diagrams, I realized it was called a cutoff relay.

When you look are both images you can see that there are 2 resistors.

JMOR · Jul 26, 2017

I think it highly unlikely that the cut out is made to operate on a 12v system, so I would first disconnect it and see if you still have a wire burning current when you try to connect battery. If that isn't the problem, verify that the 3 terminals on resistor block are not contacting the metal behind the resistor block and that the heat shields over the resistor element are not shorting to metal of dash. Those 3 terminals are counter sunk into the phenolic so as not to touch the dash metal, but it has happened before.

Jim WI · Jul 26, 2017

What is the device at the left side of the top picture with the heavy wires connected to it?

Dell (WA) · Jul 26, 2017

niner........O.K.......them pictures help lotts. Yer BURNED WIRE goes to 1-terminal of yer amp meter. The OTHER amp meter terminal goes to yer IGNITION switch. It shulda BURNED TOO...BUT...it didn't. Gonna make a WAG (wild A$$ guess) that yer amp meter is SHORTED to yer dashboard, otherwize yer wire to yer ignition switch woulda burned too. Awe yes, yer 2-terminal round can cut-out switch/relay. It needs to be "POLARIZED". Me? I take a pair of plier handles and QUICKLY touch the 2-terminals, engine OFF. They will "arc-spark" but donna worry. You kenn use bailin' warr iff'n you want. As I said, gennys don't care, positive (+) or negative (-) ground, just as long as its been POLARIZED to match the battery GROUND. And NOW you know WHAT a SOLENOID don't look like, eh? O.K. that WHITE ceramic resistor is a 12-to-6 volt converting resistor fer yer ORIGINAL 6-volt dizzy coil. You NEED it so you don't burn yer 6-volt dizzy coil out with 12-volts........HTH, Dell, yer self-appointed electrician and sparkie-meister

JMOR · Jul 26, 2017

(quoted from post at 16:27:39 07/26/17) What is the device at the left side of the top picture with the heavy wires connected to it?

tarter switch.

my9ntractor · Jul 26, 2017

Dell

What do you mean by "polorized"?

my9ntractor · Jul 26, 2017

Can you leave the ameter out?

my9ntractor · Jul 26, 2017

The ameter never worked anyway.

my9ntractor · Jul 26, 2017

Thank you JMOR. I bypassed the cut out and it doesn't burn. It was hooked up before and it worked. I can't understand it. I cranked the engine over. I just have to put the tank back on and this thing will be running.

If I was there right now I would kiss you on the lips and Im not gay.

my9ntractor · Jul 26, 2017

Everybody's help is very appreciated. Thank you all.

Dell you sound very smart. Thank you. I will hold on to everything you said. Just in case I need it.

Dell (WA) · Jul 26, 2017

niner.......make a WAG. Ittza secret trick to confuze you electrical novices. Iff'n yer battery POSITIVE (+) post (they're labled you know) is connected to chassis ground, it is positive polarity. Yer genny output has gotta be NEGATIVE (-) so you kenn replace used electrons..........HTH, electrical Dell

JMOR · Jul 26, 2017

(quoted from post at 20:09:20 07/26/17) Thank you JMOR. I bypassed the cut out and it doesn't burn. It was hooked up before and it worked. I can't understand it. I cranked the engine over. I just have to put the tank back on and this thing will be running.

If I was there right now I would kiss you on the lips and Im not gay.

'll settle for the simple thanks! :wink:

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