Box scraper or back blade on 2N?

Mark L 2N

Member
Hello,
My wife has several horses in a dry paddock on a slight hillside. (They go to the pasture to graze.) They have the paddock beaten down to mostly sand that washes downhill leaving gullies so every year or two I have to move the sand back up hill. Been doing this with a very under powered front end loader on a compact "garden" tractor. It's only for a few hours but it's a lot of work for it. The thing is basically a glorified snow shovel.

Since the wife it terrified of the havoc I could raise with a skid steer I am thinking a 6ft back blade or small box scraper on my 2N might be a viable option. Could a 2N handle that? In your opinions which would be a better choice?

thanks
Mark
 
I agree, a box blade will do a better job of moving dirt. for your tractor a 5ft should be fine as when its loaded with dirt it can be a load.

dishearten to look back and half your dirt is falling out the ends of your grader blade. you can buy optional end blocks for a grader blade, but they are rare,

another tool that can move some dirt and also do a good job leveling out the dirt after its moved is the root rake
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thanks for the replies, sounds like a box scraper is the way to go.

I have another area that needs leveling but it's sod. How do those box scraper teeth handle busting up something like that?
 
mark,
just so you know what else is out there to help you level your lot.

this picture shows a grader blade with optional "removable end plates" and a rear wheel leveler attachment.
the end plates will make the grader blade work like a box blade in that no dirt falls out the ends.

the rear trail wheel option allows you to do a much better job of leveling the area.

no matter the tool without a rear leveling wheel, each time the front tractor tires go down the rear blade comes up and vice verse, so you can get uneven dirt work.

The rear wheel attachment kit could also be an advantage with a box blade,
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I've only tried a couple of times but for good sod, the ripper teeth on the box blade didn't work very well at all. I am gearing up to cut some drainage in my yard here shortly and plan to lay it out and spray it with glyphosate. Then once it is good and dead, disk the remaining roots under and commence dirtwork.
 
I have a 4' box blade I have used many times digging, moving & shaping dirt. I have pulled it w/an 8N but much prefer using my 960 as it's slower. To break up sod, I shorten the link (a lot!) so the scarifiers dig in & break the sod, then lengthen to move dirt. In my opinion (for whatever that's worth!) the best job is done when moving slow & constantly "fine tuning" the top link length.
I also think you would be more satisfied w/the handling of a 4' w/your N than the larger blade, but maybe that's because I'm retired & have more time for shaping!
Either way, the best way (& the most fun!) is to use this as a reason why you need both types of blades!
 

You obviously need to go and at least rent a skid steer for a couple days and learn to run it well, and then show your wife, so that she will give you the respect that you deserve. Tip: always turn it while moving forward or back to keep operation smooth and ruts to a minimum.
 
box blade and a landscape rake will get most jobs done.
( a modern low budget box blade will need some weight added to it)
Busting undisturbed ground with a box blade teeth depends on your dirt.
On dry clay...forget it. Sand? maybe.
(bust it after a rain, then smooth it after it dries some)
 
Thanks for the replies, I have had a rented skidsteer around
here before, no damage but I was having fun and I think she
was afraid what she might come home to one of these days. I
don't blame her, I tend to get carried away with power
equipment.

I think the 3 pt box scrapers at the local TSC are 5 feet. What I
need to move is dry and loose but I might look into a 4 footer,
I am not in a hurry and don't want to overload the old girl.

Thanks again
Mark
 

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