Aloha from the Big Island of Hawai'i
First, it's a friends tractor, not mine. But I'm more mechanically inclined than he is, so he asked me to look at it.
Couldn't get it to start, not even a chuff using starting fluid. Found the carb had gas flowing out of the throat. Took it off and got the basic rebuild kit. Replaced the needle valve, seat and gasket. Yep, tightened that sucker down good, a small machinist square fit across the slots just fine. Adjust the floats to spec using a 1/4" drill bit between floats and gasket. When I put it together, I can hear the floats move up and down when I flip the carb over. Put it on the bench, rigged up a little fuel tank using fuel line and a funnel. Sat there for 2 days, never leaked a drop.
Installed it on the tractor this AM. Checked and cleaned Dist. cap and coil contacts. Checked ohm readings on coil. Checked firing order of wires to cap and plugs. All correct. Took out plugs, cleaned, gap, reinstalled. Turned on the fuel, hit the key and it fired right up. Did the happy dance. Let it run for about 10 minutes to charge the battery up. Shut it off. Went to restart, and wouldn't fire up. Pulled off the hose connection to the carb input, and sure enough, fuel sitting there. Grrr... Carb doesn't seem that old, is aluminium. Don't know what else to do with it at this point. Also, the distributor shaft has a lot (IMHO) play rotationally. Like there is excessive wear between the distributor gear and whatever drives it.
Background note - Sometime in the past, it was converted to a 12V Neg system with electronic points. And it has been running fairly well up to this point. Suggestions?
 
The most common cause of flooding when starting is choking them
too much. They are an updraft carb with the choke spring loaded
to the off position. It wouldn't have leaked on the bench if this
is the cause because you weren't trying to start it.

Try just rolling the engine over with the starter, key on. If after
5 or 6 revolutions it doesn't fire, while still rolling, pull the choke
out for a second and it should start right up. Then release the choke.

Other engines I know have to have the choke on a lot more, but
these usually do not and they don't need much of it.

BTW, remember to turn the fuel off when not in use.
 
(quoted from post at 16:18:45 07/11/17) The most common cause of flooding when starting is choking them
too much. They are an updraft carb with the choke spring loaded
to the off position. It wouldn't have leaked on the bench if this
is the cause because you weren't trying to start it.

Try just rolling the engine over with the starter, key on. If after
5 or 6 revolutions it doesn't fire, while still rolling, pull the choke
out for a second and it should start right up. Then release the choke.

Other engines I know have to have the choke on a lot more, but
these usually do not and they don't need much of it.

BTW, remember to turn the fuel off when not in use.

No choke used at all.
Choke is free to move, and wide open.
Just never needed to use it before.
 
(quoted from post at 22:36:22 07/11/17)
(quoted from post at 16:18:45 07/11/17) The most common cause of flooding when starting is choking them
too much. They are an updraft carb with the choke spring loaded
to the off position. It wouldn't have leaked on the bench if this
is the cause because you weren't trying to start it.

Try just rolling the engine over with the starter, key on. If after
5 or 6 revolutions it doesn't fire, while still rolling, pull the choke
out for a second and it should start right up. Then release the choke.

Other engines I know have to have the choke on a lot more, but
these usually do not and they don't need much of it.

BTW, remember to turn the fuel off when not in use.

No choke used at all.
Choke is free to move, and wide open.
Just never needed to use it before.
In that case you may need to service the air cleaner.
Not just the oil cup on the bottom, but take the wire mesh out and really clean it.
One way to check would be to try it with the hose disconnected and see if it does the same thing.
 
(quoted from post at 17:43:16 07/11/17)
(quoted from post at 22:36:22 07/11/17)
(quoted from post at 16:18:45 07/11/17) The most common cause of flooding when starting is choking them
too much. They are an updraft carb with the choke spring loaded
to the off position. It wouldn't have leaked on the bench if this
is the cause because you weren't trying to start it.

Try just rolling the engine over with the starter, key on. If after
5 or 6 revolutions it doesn't fire, while still rolling, pull the choke
out for a second and it should start right up. Then release the choke.

Other engines I know have to have the choke on a lot more, but
these usually do not and they don't need much of it.

BTW, remember to turn the fuel off when not in use.

No choke used at all.
Choke is free to move, and wide open.
Just never needed to use it before.
In that case you may need to service the air cleaner.
Not just the oil cup on the bottom, but take the wire mesh out and really clean it.
One way to check would be to try it with the hose disconnected and see if it does the same thing.

As it happens, just did that. Pulled the mesh, cleaned it, re oiled it, fresh oil in the cup. And yes, still does it with the hose disconnected.
 
JK........Aloha from Naalelu. Worked at a tracking station at South Point (Ka Lae) in 1964-67. Last time I was there, all that was left was the BIG concrete foundation fer the 100-ft antenna. Was going to show the wife where I used to work, so instead went down and got some GREEN SAND at Ka Lae. When I worked 2nd shift, would occasionally see Madam Pele in my headlites.

As fer yer 9N woes, yeah that 4-nipple dizzy is summtime difficult to deal with. Me? First thing I'd due rite now is pop the capple and sticka corner of $1-bill (cheap) between the points (0.015) and PULL. Polish the INVISIBLE CORROSION from between the points. 2nd thing I'd due, is replace yer sparkies AGAIN!!! Ya flooded 'em and will be IMPOSSIBLE to start yer 9N with todays additive ladened gasoline. Recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025. Dont throw yer FLOODED sparkies away, just clean'n'dry 'em, one-atta-time in HOT running engine, and save'um fer the next time (and there will be a NEXT TIME) 3rd thing is learn to adjust yer carbie. Set the down-pointing mainjet to 2-turns and LEAVITT!!! Then adjust yer side-pointing idlemix fer FASTEST idle NOT SMOOTHEST idle. Understand the difference??? Shuld be about 1/8-1/4 turn.

Final comments; while yer 9N came from the factory 6-volts positive (+) ground, changing it to 12-volts negative (-) ground is generally notta problem as long as you continue to use the "infamous" ballast resistor in yer dizzy. OTHERWIZE yer gonna be replacing yer squarecan ignition coil inna 'bouta 1-hr of operating time 'cuz ya MELTED the insulative TAR inside the coil and shorted it out. I'm notta fan of Pertronix electronic points with the 4-nipple dizzy, 5-nipple dizzy's OK. I stick built a electronic ignition in 1963 fer my 1956 Dodge D-500 with semi-hemi engine. (cousin to the MIGHTY Chrysler 300) I run MK-10 in my semi-race 1969 BMW 2002 with 387K miles on it. I graduated to DIESEL VW Rabbit pick'em-ups and Dodge Cummins Diesel out here on my sheep ranch.......HTH, rancher Dell
 
Shut the fuel off at the tank when tractor is shut down for any period of time. Needle valve in carb cannot hold back
the fuel flow, quite often. Once running it works fine.
 
The tractor was stopped for five minutes while I was reconnecting the hose from the air cleaner. Why would the valve hold before starting, but not after stopping? During the initial start (when it did start) I had the fuel on for at least 2 minutes before starting checking for leaks.
 
Aloha;
There are no points to clean or set. Pretty sure the coil is a 12 volt one since it's been running for a few years according to the owner. Also the ballast resistor was added.
Initial carb adjustments were main screw out from bottom 1 1/4 turn, and idle adjust out from bottom 1 turn.
This was based on info from Ford manual and this forum. On the initial start, the tractor fired up on the first turn over.
Doesn't explain why fuel is filling the intake throat of the carb.
Do you still live in Na'alelu? We don't get to Ka'u area much. Usually when we go to the volcano, we take saddle road over to Hilo so we can stop at Ken's for breakfast. We try to get to Halema'uma'u just before sunrise.
 
Don't know where the aluminum carb came from. Should be cast iron. May have an internal leak or float/inlet needle valve is leaking to cause fuel in carb throat.
 
JK........naw, donna live in Naalelu ennymore. As I said 1964-67. I'm a retired Flt Test Engr fer Boeing in Seattle and live at the foot of 14K Mt Rainier where I raise sheep on my starvation grass (moss) to train my Australian Shepherd dogs fer herding competition against Border Collies. (ittza doggy thing) Somewhere I gotta picture of us throwing snowballs at the TOP of Mauna Loa........Dell
 
I'm guessing here, but thinking the aluminum carb came from here. They sell one, P/N 8N9510C, and the carb has a tag on it that said 9510C. It was probably done at the same time the electrics were upgraded from 6V to 12V and the electronic points.
I got the basic rebuild kit from here for the 9510C, which included the new needle valve, seat, and gasket. And I did tighten the heck out of the seat when installing it.Do you think there could be an internal leak in the carb? The kit did come with a new gasket which was installed. But why only leaking after running?
 
"But why only leaking after running?"

Does it continue to leak and drip or is it just some fuel left in the bottom?
If it continues to leak, maybe vibration spun the needle around
in the seat and isn't setting where it was before you started it.
You might try putting a little pressure on the needle and spinning
it in the seat to see if that helps it. On the other hand, it may
seal itself after some use if this is the case and you won't have
to be concerned about how much is "a little" pressure. :)
 
What does '...pretty sure the coil is a 12 volt one since it's been running for a few years...' have to do with 12 volts or 6 volts and lasting a few years? -Nothing, coils should last a long time. I have a few originals, with the FORD script logo and were all tossed away by folks marked as scrap, but guess what-they work fine. Some of the newer carbs may be aluminum bodies. Simply perform the magnet test ---if it sticks, it's ferrous, if not it's non-ferrous. Does the carb have MARVEL SCHEBLER anywhere on the top half or bottom half? r, a TSX number on a brass tag or cast boss? If not, it's aftermarket. Next issue: if fuel is running out the carb throat, it is a stuck float, unless due to leaving the FUEL SEDIMENT BULB valve open all night.

Tim *PloughNman* Daley(MI)
 
Fuel is dripping out, rate about 3 drops per second for a couple of minutes even after shutting off fuel.
I suppose it's the fuel that's left in the line from the tank...
 
No markings on the carb itself. There is a tag attached to one of the bowl screws that says 9510C
After I got it put back together, I turned it over several times and could hear the float moving inside it.
If the float was sticking, say, rubbing on the bowl body, why no leakage when bench testing, or initial fuel on when mounted on the tractor? All I did was mount it to the tractor, turn on the fuel, check the inlet line and looked in the throat to see if any fuel was leaking. Ran it for 10 minutes (started right up), shut it off and went to put the hose connector to the air cleaner back on, and fuel was dripping out.
 
(quoted from post at 20:50:50 07/12/17) No markings on the carb itself. There is a tag attached to one of the bowl screws that says 9510C
Kind of like this one?

534.jpg


This one is also called a model 9510C. From Tractor Supply.
Both of them traded in on original, rebuilt, Marvel Scheblers.

535.jpg
 
(quoted from post at 15:58:09 07/12/17)
(quoted from post at 20:50:50 07/12/17) No markings on the carb itself. There is a tag attached to one of the bowl screws that says 9510C
Kind of like this one?

534.jpg


This one is also called a model 9510C. From Tractor Supply.
Both of them traded in on original, rebuilt, Marvel Scheblers.

535.jpg
So why did you trade them in? Were they not working right? Where you going for originality?
I went out to the pasture today and pulled the carb and took it apart on the bench. Again, everything looks ok. All I know at this point is that initially, the tractor would not start and the carb was puking fuel out of the intake throat. After taking it apart and cleaning the passages and jets, replaced the needle valve, seat and gasket, the throttle shaft packing, the body gasket, it sat for 2 days on the bench fueled up with no leaks. Following a successful 10 minute run, again, puking gas out of the intake throat. So whatever was initially wrong with it, must not have been corrected yet. Thinking of putting some gasket sealer on the body gasket in case there might be warpage between the two halves.
 
(quoted from post at 20:29:29 07/13/17)
(quoted from post at 15:58:09 07/12/17)
(quoted from post at 20:50:50 07/12/17) No markings on the carb itself. There is a tag attached to one of the bowl screws that says 9510C
Kind of like this one?


This one is also called a model 9510C. From Tractor Supply.
Both of them traded in on original, rebuilt, Marvel Scheblers.


So why did you trade them in? Were they not working right? Where you going for originality?
I went out to the pasture today and pulled the carb and took it apart on the bench. Again, everything looks ok. All I know at this point is that initially, the tractor would not start and the carb was puking fuel out of the intake throat. After taking it apart and cleaning the passages and jets, replaced the needle valve, seat and gasket, the throttle shaft packing, the body gasket, it sat for 2 days on the bench fueled up with no leaks. Following a successful 10 minute run, again, puking gas out of the intake throat. So whatever was initially wrong with it, must not have been corrected yet. Thinking of putting some gasket sealer on the body gasket in case there might be warpage between the two halves.
I didn't trade them in, they were traded in to me for ones I rebuilt.
Gasket sealer will not work and is a bad idea.
There should never be raw gas that high in the carb to reach the gasket,
other than sloshing, and it would leak at the gasket, not out of the throat.

One of my rebuilds before and after. This one was on a tractor that burned.

mvphoto17291.jpg


mvphoto17294.jpg
 
Very nice work.
Well, the only thing I can think of is to triple check the float setting. If the floats were bad (leaking) it would have leaked fuel when on the bench for 2 days. Something in the dynamics of running? After all, there is a vacuum created in the carb throat while running. Does the bowl come under a vacuum too when running?
 
Thanks. I don't believe your floats are bad either. It would pour.
Slow leak at the needle valve would be my guess; from vibration.
Hard to say without laying eyes on it.
Maybe I should fly out there and check it out for you! ;)
 
(quoted from post at 18:07:46 07/13/17) Thanks. I don't believe your floats are bad either. It would pour.
Slow leak at the needle valve would be my guess; from vibration.
Hard to say without laying eyes on it.
Maybe I should fly out there and check it out for you! ;)
Come on out. I'll put a hammock out on the lanai for you and a cold drink on the table next to it.
Even a brand new needle valve and seat? Anything I can do to improve the fit? It's not like they need lapping like a valve, right?
Seems odd to me to have the same problem after rebuild as before rebuild. Nagging feeling I'm missing something....
 
(quoted from post at 18:07:46 07/13/17) Thanks. I don't believe your floats are bad either. It would pour.
Slow leak at the needle valve would be my guess; from vibration.
Hard to say without laying eyes on it.
Maybe I should fly out there and check it out for you! ;)

Well, I feel like a real idiot now.
So I have the carb apart and spread out on the bench, staring at it. The old Mark 1 eyeball see's a odd thing. Out comes the dial caliper. The new needle valve is 1.3mm shorter than the original one. The bore of the valve body is 2mm longer than the original one. So the rear of the needle valve is slightly below the float pivot point. So it would lack the force needed by the float to seal off the fuel. That's what I get for assuming that parts ordered for this carb would actually be the same as the parts FROM the carb.
Rummaged around, found a better needle valve, put it back together, and took it out and installed it. No leaks, tractor fires right up. Started and stopped it five times, working perfectly. And got out of the pasture before the rains started.
 

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