Timing side mount distributor 8N

Joel Grier

New User
Well after all the WTF's I found the EI had crapped out Lesson learned take the key out of the ignition when done for the day, I suspect this was the EI's down fall finding the ignition on over night a couple of times.
Anyway I swapped out the entire distributor and went back to points and condenser ignition. Why? way cheaper to maintain and or replace points and condenser when needed.
So here my issues now due to being in a hurry and not paying attention I messed up the timing. I have been reading the instructions on how to time and I have a couple questions.

I found the timing marks on the fly wheel 0degrees , 4 degrees and 5 degrees etc are clearly visible.

I set the points to .025 prior to installing the distributor in the tractor

Then lined up the timing mark up to the pin and my rotor was pointing toward the right front tire, I read where it should be pointing toward the right front head bolt or 1# plug

Also I have read where the tractor is timed at 0 degrees and I have read where it is 4 degrees
In a post some where I read the there at another set of timing marks 180 degrees a part on the flywheel.

These are my questions
 

There are two sets of timing marks 180 degrees apart. use the set that you will see when number one cylinder is at top dead center on the compression stroke. then install distributor so that he rotor points to number one plug wire.
I always set the 0.025" gap when the distributor is on the tractor, check all four lobes.
 
Remove the #1 spark plug. (removing all of them makes the job a bit easier) Ignition off, place your thumb over the #1 spark plug hole and crank slowly until compression is felt. Continue to crank the engine until you see the timing mark, 0* (top dead center) on the flywheel through the timing hole in the right side of the bell housing. Use chalk on the flywheel to exactly align the 4 degree mark with the pointer. Hold the distributor beside the engine. W/ the distributor oiler at the 7 o'clock position & the stud at 9 o'clock, turn the rotor until it points roughly at the right front head bolt. (close counts) Now insert the distributor. Rotate the distributor housing counter clockwise until the points are closed. Put the cap on & double check the plug wires, 1-2-4-3, CCW. Then, remove the primary wire from the side of the distributor (or at the coil, whichever is easier) Put one lead of your VOM (set on resistance) on the stud on the side of the distributor & the other on the block or other good ground. Slowly turn the distributor. The needle will move as the points close & then open. Find the exact spot just as the points open & then tighten down the distributor.

Now check your work (and the dynamic timing) w/ a light.

If it won't idle below 500 rpm (400 is better) don't bother w/ a light.

If it idles ok, make 3 marks w/ chalk or white paint on the flywheel:

4*
10*
17*

Start the engine.

At idle, the light should flash & the marker should line up exactly at 4* if you did the static timing correctly.

If not, loosen the distributor & turn it until the marks line up. It should take very little adjustment.

Once you've got that done, increase the engine speed to 1200 rpms. The light should flash & the marker should line up w/ the 10* mark. Then, increase the rpms to 2000 & look for the marker to align w/ the 17* mark.

Close counts on the advanced timing. A degree or 2 either way is ok. But, no movement or 5* or more off means you have an advance weight problem. You don't adjust the distributor to fix that.
75 Tips
 
Distributor timing side mount

Remove the spark plug from the number one (front) cylinder. Turn the engine over with a finger in the spark plug hole and the ignition switch in the off position until you feel the compression begin to push your finger off the hole. Finish turning the engine over buy hand with the fan or by placing in fourth gear and moving the tractor slowly forward by pushing on the rear wheel until the #1 piston is at top dead center of the compression stroke you?ll need a helper or have long arms to use the wheels to find TDC. Exact TDC can be checked by removing the timing hole cover on the flywheel housing and turning the engine by hand till the TDC mark comes up at the timing window.

Install the distributor into the hole and turn the distributor shaft until the rotor is pointing to the #1 mark on the distributor cap. If the cap has no #1 then just point the rotor to any position on the cap to one of the plug wire holes.

Turn the distributor slightly until the points just open and then back a couple degrees opposite the direction of rotation for the rotor. Direction of rotation for the NAA and up is clockwise.

8N turns counter clockwise. (left)

Install the wires into the cap in the direction of rotation of the rotor as if the engine were running which is counterclockwise and in the firing order for the engine to the appropriate spark plug in firing order.. 8N firing order is 1243

After the engine is running you can turn the distributor right or left until it sounds best. Not labored or skipping. If it pings when under a load then turn the distributor in the direction of the rotation of the rotor slightly. Or if it seems to try to kick back against the starter do the same. The best place is just adjust to the point that it pings and then back the other way until it doesn?t ping under heavy load.

Never mind the timing marks.

Zane
 
Rotate the engine until the timing marks align with the 4 degree BTDC mark with #1 cylinder on the compression stroke. Where the rotor points is irrelevant.

Search the archives for my posts regarding static timing and follow the procedures.

Dean
 
I wanted to thank everyone for the help in getting my 8N's timing straightened out
I have yet to put a timing light on it or put the engine under any type of load But as it sits it starts and idles better than ever no backfiring or sputtering.
 

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