This tractor is making me feel dumb!

So, on my 2n I have replaced the safety valve, put a new piston and o-ring, with the backer in correctly.
And finally, after some helpful advise from some gentlemen on here, got the silly control valve back on the arms. I put everything back together, and voila, the arms come up nice and smooth, and everything seems fine...
Until I hooked the scoop up, and now, the only way to raise the arms is to take all the pressure off of the top link. I screw the top link all the way out, so there is no "load" on it. And the arms come up.
Soon as I have the arms up, I can draw the top link in, and it stays.
But this sure isn't very efficient.
I am going to order a new gasket kit, cause I'm sure I'm gonna have to open it up again, and I was thinking maybe someone knew what else I should replace.
I don't think it's the pump, cause that felt go, and moves the oil fine. And I'm not seeing any "blow-by" at the piston.
Any help or ideas sure would be appreciated.

Scott
 
Before taking it apart again, I would try loosening the 4 bolts on quadrant & try moving it fore & aft to see if that solves your problem.
 
Well, I will sure try that, but what would you think could cause it? Any idea why? Could I have put something back together wrong?
 
Well, I will sure try that, but what would you think could cause it? Any idea why? Could I have put something back together wrong?
 
(quoted from post at 22:20:58 06/11/17) Well, I will sure try that, but what would you think could cause it? Any idea why? Could I have put something back together wrong?
ou used the term "pressure". Does that mean pushing, as in to compress the big top link rocker spring OR a pull on it?
 
Your draft control spring should be "tight".
No way should any load be pulling it anywhere!
The only movement of that plunger should be in and
only when there is a plow getting hung up to force it
in to enable lift to pick up the plow.
In your case the plunger should be a non-issue and
not be moving, tighten it if needed.
Another problem a loose plunger will cause is
bouncing of say a post hole digger for instance.
So the plunger if loose is definitely part of your problem.
 
(quoted from post at 12:20:50 06/12/17) Your draft control spring should be "tight".
No way should any load be pulling it anywhere!
The only movement of that plunger should be in and
only when there is a plow getting hung up to force it
in to enable lift to pick up the plow.
In your case the plunger should be a non-issue and
not be moving, tighten it if needed.
Another problem a loose plunger will cause is
bouncing of say a post hole digger for instance.
So the plunger if loose is definitely part of your problem.
rue enough that it "shouldn't" be 'pulling it anywhere', but the normal situation with a lifted implement attached is in fact a pulling force. If something is amiss, then such a pulling force can up set normal operation. We can only 'know' what is going on by obtaining information, which is precisely why I asked him the push/pull question. Better than guessing.
 
As it is trying to lift the implement, it is pulling the top linkage.
So, as I turn the adjustable top link rod out, the lower arms will raise.
But, like you stated, I have to take all the pulling pressure off of the top link, the one with the spring on it. This is happening with all of my items, so I don't think it's a binding thing.
You state that the spring should be tight, and that's what the manual says also, but it has been loose since I bought it.
Should I crank the top "yoke" in till the spring is tight? The manual says leave it alone.
As for the quadrant, the hydraulics start moving when the control lever is at roughly 2 3/4", give or take a little. So, by the manual, this is correct. Or close enough.
But I do appreciate the ideas, and I'm still hoping to not have to take it back apart. I really need to get the ole girl going again, before I run out of summer.
 
(quoted from post at 21:36:12 06/12/17) As it is trying to lift the implement, it is pulling the top linkage.
So, as I turn the adjustable top link rod out, the lower arms will raise.
But, like you stated, I have to take all the pulling pressure off of the top link, the one with the spring on it. This is happening with all of my items, so I don't think it's a binding thing.
You state that the spring should be tight, and that's what the manual says also, but it has been loose since I bought it.
Should I crank the top "yoke" in till the spring is tight? The manual says leave it alone.
As for the quadrant, the hydraulics start moving when the control lever is at roughly 2 3/4", give or take a little. So, by the manual, this is correct. Or close enough.
But I do appreciate the ideas, and I'm still hoping to not have to take it back apart. I really need to get the ole girl going again, before I run out of summer.
y suspicion is that the draft plunger stop plate is worn (almost 70 years) and that is why spring is loose and you should be able to compensate for this up to a point by shifting the quadrant to the rear by a small amount. If you are afraid that you will mess it up further with this move, then mark it & then you will be able to return it to current spot. As the draft plunger stop plate wears, that moves control valve fork more to the lower position. By moving quadrant to rear we are compensating , ie.. moving fork more toward lift. The trial is very cheap & if no cookie, then go back inside & examine parts. If you try to tighten the spring, be cautious as those are fine threads & virtually always rusted tighter than a good weld and easy enough to break linkage the plunger is tied to or twist off the plunger in the yoke.
 
JMOR: You, sir, are a genius!

I did what you recommended, and after playing around and after going the wrong way, I finally got the lift to work.
I didn't realize though, just how little play there is, (maybe 1/4").

However, I now have a worse problem, seeing as the arms come all the way up now, I have to find a new place to place my hand while climbing onto the seat. (see broken finger after smashing it between the seat and lift arm) I have never had the arms come up that high before.

Again, thank you to all for your help with this!

Scott
 
(quoted from post at 14:18:36 06/18/17) JMOR: You, sir, are a genius!

I did what you recommended, and after playing around and after going the wrong way, I finally got the lift to work.
I didn't realize though, just how little play there is, (maybe 1/4").

However, I now have a worse problem, seeing as the arms come all the way up now, I have to find a new place to place my hand while climbing onto the seat. (see broken finger after smashing it between the seat and lift arm) I have never had the arms come up that high before.

Again, thank you to all for your help with this!

Scott
ou are very welcome!
 
i, too, want to say thanks.

the position control has worked for as long as i've owned the tractor, but the draft control has never functioned. if the arms were raised, and the lever switched to "draft", the arms would drop all the way down.

because the position control worked, i assumed there was some other problem. this morning, i loosened the quadrant bolts, pushed the quadrant to the rear, and now draft control works.

also, as noted by the OP, the arms lift much higher than before in position control, too.

wally
 

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