3 point lift wont raise

mandsean

New User
I just purchased my first tractor... ever. It is a 1950 ford 8n with a side mount distributor. It is now running well and has been cleaned of deposits fairly well as well. It came with a draw bar and stay bars. I removed them to check and see if the 3 point would work and sadly it doesn't. I have the pto running and I have tried the draft control lever in both positions neither seem to make any difference. Someone has previously plumbed in a valve for some reason or another and I'm not sure if that is affecting it? I don't have any previous experience with tractors but plan to learn all I can by doing the work myself. I'm getting ready to drain the rear end so that tomorrow I may take of the inspection plate and be able to answer more of what I'm sure I will be asked. All help is appreciated.
Thanks,
Sean
 
(quoted from post at 19:50:13 06/11/17) I have tried with it open and closed sorry thought I added that

Not likely your problem but post a picture of the added plumbing. Multiple pictures if needed to show all of the connections.

TOH
 
Sean.........yeah, that special valve was fer some remote hydraulics, dang re-memomory gone. Gittcha the IT-FO-4, the MPC (master parts catalog) has great line drawings of how stuff goes together. Ford Operators Manual. Our host, YesterdaysTractors sell'em. Yeah, change yer 5-gals of spec: M2C-134D hydro-tranny oil. Always a good place to start. As fer draining yer 5-gals of hydro-tranny oil. drain the diffy first 'cuz itt'l peeeee with some degree of accuracy, then the 3-in drain in the flat tranny. Don't bother with the corner drain, it don't. Fill is by the tranny shifter, (1/4-turn?) Gitta hoze adaptor fer the 5-gal bucket or yer'll be spillin' all over there place. Ain't many funnels that'll fit next to the tranny shifter. Iff'n yer desperete, hammer a notch to fit the tranny shifer........HTH, the oily Dell
 
 
"I'm getting ready to drain the rear end so that tomorrow I may take of the inspection plate"

If you're talking about the round inspection cover on the side,
you don't need to drain the oil to take that off. The "full" level
is at the lowest bolt hole. You won't loose much taking it off.
 
Here is a picture of the inspection plate below the controls with the valve attached. I had to use a wrench to move the valve open and closed as it doesn't have a handle on it. I still wanted to drain the fluids and replace them as it has been sitting for a year or 2 and it is not known when it was last changed.
 
not sure why the picture wont upload, basically there is a brass fitting similar to a faucet on a house going out of the rear part of the inspection plate from there it T's off and one pipe goes to the rear of the tractor to a fitting and the other goes back in the front side of the inspection plate.
 
Never a bad idea to change the fluids IMHO.
Picture didn't post. Maybe because you're new to the forum.
Maybe the picture is too large and needs to be edited.
There's also a little quirk with the forum where once you upload
the picture and see the preview in the small box, you have to
click the Continue button that shows up in order for it to be included.
 
this time the photo might work there is also plumbing that goes in from the side without the valve on the inside of the pump area not sure where it goes didn't get much time to trace it back
49627.jpg
 
I would like to remove the fitting all together from the tractor to take it back to its basic/ original style if anyone has advice or ideas on how I can do that.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top