Engine problems with my 1953 Ford NAA tractor

dan1953ford

New User
Need some advice on where to start with some recent engine problems with my 1953 Ford NAA tractor. Recently while bush hogging the lower pasture, I started to loose power while mowing with the P.T.O. engaged, so I returned to the barn. Sounded like an ignition misfire so I put in new plugs, points, condensor & rotor. It started, but worse than before and runs very rough, little power & just chugs along in 1st gear very slow. No power at all. Replaced fuel filter & it is getting fuel to the carb. What should I check next? The carb? Any help appreciated. I need to get more mowing done.
 
6volt or 12 volt?

Did you set the timing after you replaced the points?

Does the tractor have a spark that will jump 1/4" in open air?*

Will the gas drain out of the carb bowl in a steady stream and fill a pint jar in less than 2 minutes?

Post back w/ some answers.


*If you don?t own a spark checker w/ an adjustable gap, buy one. In the meantime, an old spark plug w/ the gap opened to at least ?? will work. Ground it to a rust & paint free spot on the engine turn the key on & look for a spark.
75 Tips
 
First check quality of spark at the plugs.
It should be blue/white spark that will jump 1/4 inch gap or more.
If it doesn't, spark is your problem. Trace backwards.
If it does, then take the plug out of the bottom of the carb, hold
a glass or plastic jar under it to catch fuel and turn the valve on.
It should run a pint out of there in a fairly steady stream in about
two minutes. If it won't do that, there it a screen in the elbow
where the gas line hooks up. It may be plugged.
 
I have the same engine in my 660 tractor and it had a recurring problem with the #3 intake valve sticking. When an intake valve sticks open it messes up the whole manifild vacuum and it just can't run hardly. I would check the compression and see if any cylinder has no compression and go from there.

I added lead substitute and other additives but it kept doing it and when it did the push rod would get out of the rocker and lock it open so I devised a bushing to go around the push rod where it goes through the head so it couldn't get off the rocker arm and that has fixed it for the last year or two. No more open intake valve.

Zane
 

Sounds like my NAA when the new OEM spark plug wires burned. I used the ends to make custom copper wire ignition set and it's run for years since.
 

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