2 questions-first source Ford 8n 12v Wiring-Correct Gauge?

Is there an absolute first source Ford 8n 12 volt wiring diagram I should use? And should all the wiring be 12 awg or various guages?

I see there are many 8n 12v wiring diagrams from various generous users that pop up on this forum and the internet. I also see some list various gauges on various connections and some do not, leading one to think the wiring is all 12 awg.

I would like to double check the compete tractor wiring. I also recently bought an 8n and the headlights and rear lights are dim. Though the headlights are wired in parallel with 12v bulbs, I think it may be incorrectly connected to the resistor block and the headlight ground probably needs moved from within the casing back to a more solid ground.

Thanks for any assistance and suggestions! :D
 
12GA for anything carrying charging current and 16 for all others according to Fo-4 manuals. However, since you have converted to alternator with higher than factory generator capacity, you might be wise to step up to 10Ga for charging current wires.
 
Lights and ignition switches should be powered from the generator/alternator side of the ammeter. There should be no resistors in the light circuit.

Bad grounds, broken wires, corroded bulb sockets, bad switches and burned out bulbs are all causes of lighting problems
 
This is good to know, thanks. So is there a particular first choice diagram I should use. For the record I did want to post how the previous owner converted to 12v and what I believe is incorrect in BLUE wiring. What I am confused and uncertain about is the wiring on the Alternator. Most diagrams just have the direct line to the amp meter, but mine has a 1 and 2 post connection (see diagram). I also attached the one I believe is correct and probably from this site originally. If someone doesn't mind confirming I will begin corrections.

Thanks so much for the feedback.

49417.jpg



What I believe is probably correct:

49410.jpg
 
I did many, many diagrams for different people for different reasons & their preferences. Some I wish were not out there, even though they work & you found one of those. That one matches some of the conversion kit suppliers instruction sheets, but I don't like it because ammeter only indicated alternator current, whereas I prefer a 'net reading' ammeter connection. The way most of the world does it. Almost all conversion kits use a one wire alternator. If yours needs the #1 & #2 plug connected as well as the output stud, then it will be yet a different diagram. And if using 6v coil, insert additional resistor as in your diagram as needed to obtain 4.5 amperes +/- 0.5A

 
(quoted from post at 16:20:44 06/04/17) I did many, many diagrams for different people for different reasons & their preferences. Some I wish were not out there

it's like wiring harness smoke. once that genie gets out of the bottle, it's really hard to get it back in.
 
(quoted from post at 15:29:47 06/04/17)
(quoted from post at 16:20:44 06/04/17) I did many, many diagrams for different people for different reasons & their preferences. Some I wish were not out there

it's like wiring harness smoke. once that genie gets out of the bottle, it's really hard to get it back in.
ach is fine for the particular person/situation/intended purpose. None incorrect. Yet with more than 2 dozen variants among N tractors, a new 'searcher' ends up confused. In one place (n*tractor*c*lub site) there are all useful "pictograms" together & one can easily select the needed diagram for their application, whether using one wire or 3 wire alt, ammeter (net reading or alt only), voltmeter, N or Jubilee, etc.
 
Thanks everyone for providing input. It does make sense to me now why the variations and I understand the reason and purpose now.

I feel dumb asking my next question but I have some doubts about the amperes meter connection. How do I know which is the positive and negative terminal post? Looking at the back of the amperes meter, is the right positive and the left negative? There's only two.

I will add that JMOR's diagram I posted helped correct my headlght dimness. The tractor run but I do need to verify the ampere meter is correct and connect the alternator 1&2 properly.

Thanks again gentlemen, I appreciate the help.
 
if it shows a discharge when it ought to be showing a charge, swap the wires :)
 
(quoted from post at 00:23:55 06/05/17)
(quoted from post at 21:32:00 06/04/17) if it shows a discharge when it ought to be showing a charge, swap the wires :)
es, it really is that simple!

it's a shame that more things aren't :)
 
runyan.......JMORE putts out a GREAT pictorial diagram of yer N's electrics ...BUT... fer you electrical neubies, ya gotta understand whats going on. Yer 8N came from the factory 6-volt positive (+) ground. There are some obscure advantages to positive ground, mainly to due with yer sparkies. With todays additive filled gasoline, I recommend AutoLite 437's gapped 0.025 ...BUT... when you convert to 12-volts, the ALTERNATOR DEMANDS negative (-) ground. NO ARGUE!!! As fer wire size; donna sweat it. How much power ya gonna loose from 6-feet of 12-ga stranded? More importantly, secure yer wiring so it don't sway around, use some of them white plastic tye-wraps, simple, eh? Yeah, iff'n yer sphincterly challenged; tye-wrap everywhere. I'ma 12-volt advocate fer the rite reasons, that said I haven't found the rite reason fer my eazy starting 6-volt positive (+) ground 8N........HTH, Dell, yer self-appointed sparkie-meister and voltage specialist
 
Thanks Dell and everyone! I think I have enough to go with here. If I find I have any other questions I will be back. :)
 
Forget color codes at this point -they mean nothing. You need the correct wiring diagram for your model year tractor, i.e. front mount or side mount distributor, and proceed from there. Unless the original wiring is in place, highly unlikely, the color coded wires now used could all be blue, red, green, black, or whatever so do your homework and trace each one via the schematic.

TPD
 

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