Clutch problems?

timberframe

New User
Hello, I am newly registered on the forum and have a question. This past winter I picked up what I think is a 1951 or 52 (8n)? It had been sitting for a couple of years so I changed the gas, boiled the carburetor, changed the oil, and greased it up. To my surprise with a slight pull of a few feet it fired right up and ran beautifully. I drove it around the yard for 20 minutes or so.
A few days later, I went out and started it. As I was driving around the yard, all of a sudden I hear a loud hammering sound. I push the clutch in, and the sound quits. If I let the clutch out, hammering again. So I shut off the tractor. Any ideas? thanks
 
Timberframe,It could be several things,it depends what area the noise is coming from.It could be from the clutch,throw out bearing/broken finger on the pressure plate,can you feel the noise in the clutch petal shaking.It could be a bad gear in the transmission.Or it could be in the PTO shaft/pump,check with the PTO ingauged and with it disengaged.You need to diagnose it more
 
I can't make out the serial number. It has a three speed plus reverse transmission. Does that date it as a 8n, 2n, or 9n?
 
OK the noise seems to show itself when I take the hi/low range selector and put it in either hi or low position and then let the clutch . Does that help. Also I believe I feel the hammering in the hi/low lever
 
" I take the hi/low range selector "

" Does that help?"

Ahhhh, yea. Just a bit.

You have a Sherman transmission in your tractor. That was a dealer add-on.

And it sounds like the Sherman sleeps with the fishes.

Split the tractor, remove the Sherman and fix it.

Or forget the Sherman and replace it w/ the oem main shaft.
75 Tips
 
timberframe........welcome, dunno how you boil out a carbie without disasembly but thats NOTCHUR problem. 8N's have 4-speed trannys, 9N/2N's have 3-speed trannys. Sometimes the starter BENDIX falls off'n the end of the LONG starter shaft and kenn gitt caught in the flywheel and makes a RACKET. Squander $25 (cheap) fer the FO-4 MPC (master parts catalog) Its gott detailed drawings of everythang, but it don't tell you how to fixx itt. You haffta figger it out. A good 6-point 3/8-drive socket set fitts just about everythang. Don't gitt 12-points 'cuz you'll round off all the rusted bolt corners. A 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF (automatic transmission fluid) is good rust buster in a METAL squirt can. Iff'n yer sphincterly challenged gitta clicker torque wrench. Otherwize use the specification, "goot-n-tite".........HTH, the amazed Dell
 
Thanks Dell for the reply,
I did notice that before I had the strange hammering sound, when I would go to start the tractor, the starter didn't want to engage. If I had the transmission shifter was in just the right position, the starter would engage. I had to jump the solenoid to start it the last time, as it would not engage .
 
If the Bendix fell off into the flywell, would I still be able to jump the solenoid and start tractor? I just don't want to take the starter off if it is not the starter. thanks
 
(quoted from post at 20:03:00 05/24/17) If the Bendix fell off into the flywell, would I still be able to jump the solenoid and start tractor? I just don't want to take the starter off if it is not the starter. thanks

no. the bendix is the part that turns the ring gear/flywheel.
 
(quoted from post at 04:08:18 05/25/17)
(quoted from post at 20:03:00 05/24/17) If the Bendix fell off into the flywell, would I still be able to jump the solenoid and start tractor? I just don't want to take the starter off if it is not the starter. thanks

no. the bendix is the part that turns the ring gear/flywheel.
So would this be a rather tuff repair for someone not real mechanical minded? I'm thinking I may have to sell this to someone in Michigan area that is more knowledgeable than I am with such things.
 
(quoted from post at 18:25:19 05/24/17)
(quoted from post at 04:08:18 05/25/17)
(quoted from post at 20:03:00 05/24/17) If the Bendix fell off into the flywell, would I still be able to jump the solenoid and start tractor? I just don't want to take the starter off if it is not the starter. thanks

no. the bendix is the part that turns the ring gear/flywheel.
So would this be a rather tuff repair for someone not real mechanical minded? I'm thinking I may have to sell this to someone in Michigan area that is more knowledgeable than I am with such things.

Removing the starter? Here's how to do it. Your call if it's beyond your abilities.

The starter has 3 major exterior components; front plate, barrel & rear plate. The 2 bolts that hold the starter on to the bell housing go through all three components & hold it all together. To remove the starter, unscrew the bolts out of the block & put a nut on one of them. Otherwise, the starter comes apart. Not fatal, but not fun either. (tip # 36 at the link
below) Then, loosen the two bolts holding the oil filter canister to the block, (it does not need to be removed) remove the dipstick, and keep the starter close to the block while pushing the front of it down and lifting the back up. Sometimes you have to remove the drain petcock as well.The bendix is behind the flywheel; your job is to get it over the flywheel.

Caution: while the starter is off, resist the temptation to screw with the bendix. If you extend the bendix, and it is not the OEM bendix w/ the big spring, you will have a hard time getting the starter installed.

To install the starter, keep it close to the block while pulling the front of it up and pushing the bendix back into the hole. The bendix has to go behind the flywheel; your job is to get it over the flywheel.
 

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